Best way to install this expansion tank

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The max working pressure is a known rating for what the unit was deigned to withstand as a maximum pressure with safety factors involved.
I realize 80 represents a pressure but what I was questioning was where does it say that, so I could make the determination what it actually represents on your 2 gallon tank. That is if it's applicable to that tank.
 
Isn't that the 150? Both the 2 gallon and the 4.5 tanks say max pressure is 150. I take that to mean what you are talking about that the tank can withstand 150 in the event of failure to the PRV, right? I know my outside pressure is about 120.

So in this short time, I have had the pressure gauge hooked up all day to to monitor what happens. Normal pressure is 60 (which is what I filled the tank to) and after the water heater ran it only goes up to about 65-70.
 
But if you rather not
dman2 said:
Isn't that the 150? Both the 2 gallon and the 4.5 tanks say max pressure is 150. I take that to mean what you are talking about that the tank can withstand 150 in the event of failure to the PRV, right? I know my outside pressure is about 120.

So in this short time, I have had the pressure gauge hooked up all day to to monitor what happens. Normal pressure is 60 (which is what I filled the tank to) and after the water heater ran it only goes up to about 65-70.
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In short, the 150 psi is irrelevant to my point.

You didn't answer my question on the reference to 80 psi.
 
I said back a few posts that the 80 was the maximum air pressure you can fill it to.
 
dman2 said:
I appreciate the critique! I was wondering about connecting brass but the manual said those are dielectric nipples so hopefully that means I can connect anything to them. The draft hood that the flue pipe is going into is tapered so the pipe fits pretty snug onto it. Should I put a screw into it like the old one had? And finally, is that upper end of the pipe going to cause a problem? That is as far as I could shove it up in there. And of course that wood was temporary. I have a nicer block there already :) Thank you again for everything.
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if your nipples are die-lectric then you are good to go
 
Personally I ALWAYS put (or add) shutoffs on both HOT and COLD, not just the cold entering. This is just another example of builders and or plumbers trying to save a few dollars and eliminate a valve.

If you have valves on both entry and exit (Hot and Cold) you can completely isolated the hot water tank--and when you or the next owner goes to change the hot water tank, it becomes very, very easy...no draining the entire system, and no mess! The few dollars for another valve goes a long way in ease and convenience.
 
Mitchell-DIY-Guy said:
Personally I ALWAYS put (or add) shutoffs on both HOT and COLD, not just the cold entering. This is just another example of builders and or plumbers trying to save a few dollars and eliminate a valve.

If you have valves on both entry and exit (Hot and Cold) you can completely isolated the hot water tank--and when you or the next owner goes to change the hot water tank, it becomes very, very easy...no draining the entire system, and no mess! The few dollars for another valve goes a long way in ease and convenience.
Click to expand...

This relates to post #26 from Jeff that no one answered.
Jeff's question was "But has there been a code change to allow this, or was it always allowed?".

I was told by a plumber that in Baltimore it's against code to have valves on both.

Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
I just checked the International Plumbing Code(IPC), which I believe is your code, addresses the requirement for a cold water valve. Does NOT address a hot water valve either way, that I can find.

It's one of those things that typically isn't done, for one reason or another. Some codes mention it and vary on the subject.

Many plumbers vary on it as well.

I think it's a case that he may think it's against the code.
 
It is a preference thing.
1.3 gallons of water are in a 3/4'' copper pipe 50' in length
a typical house would have less than 1/4 that amount of water in the pipe after opening a faucet
. it is my opinion that a valve on the hot side is actually a waste of money

like i said, it is a preference thang.
 
Mitchell-DIY-Guy said:
Personally I ALWAYS put (or add) shutoffs on both HOT and COLD, not just the cold entering. This is just another example of builders and or plumbers trying to save a few dollars and eliminate a valve.

If you have valves on both entry and exit (Hot and Cold) you can completely isolated the hot water tank--and when you or the next owner goes to change the hot water tank, it becomes very, very easy...no draining the entire system, and no mess! The few dollars for another valve goes a long way in ease and convenience.
Click to expand...

look at it from a company owners view point.
lets say blue smoke plumbing co installs 250 water heaters a year
that equates to 250 b- valves at $5.00 per valve = $1250.00 in material alone
then you have man hours to factor in, just for grins lets say we assign 15 minutes per valve
62 hours at $25.00 per hour= $1550.00
next is what i call consumables flux.solder, sand paper, fitting brush, gas
lets just call this $150.00. 'cause i am to lazy to figure it out
1250
1550
0150.
$2950.00 to install 250 b valves
so, from a plumbing co view point. that is the raise you wanted but the boss said he can not afford
:beeroclock:
numbers estimated and rounded . might not be accurate....
 
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Thats why most companies only put in required amount of valves. Yes it makes sense to valve branch lines but not when you factor in cost. I have worked on older homes that have a valve at the main and one at the water heater. They didnt even put in stops under sinks.
 
If you haven't installed it yet my advice is don't. It isn't necessary. Surprised this wasn't already stated.
 
It WAS established that he, in fact, has a PRV.

I know, a lot to read with over 50 posts.
 
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frodo said:
Who asked about the PRV?


I asked in post #6 where his PRV was

He answered in post #8 '' Yes, I do have a PRV right next to the main shut off inside my house. ''
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I was responding to PlumbGate's comment above. He was stating that an expansion tank was not required as it wasn't established that there was a PRV. He went so far as to say,"Surprised this wasn't already stated."
Looks like his reference to "PRV" was removed.:eek:
 
Diehard said:
I was responding to PlumbGate's comment above. He was stating that an expansion tank was not required as it wasn't established that there was a PRV. He went so far as to say,"Surprised this wasn't already stated."
Looks like his reference to "PRV" was removed.:eek:
Click to expand...


weird. his post does not show an edit
site must be messing up ;)
 
Yes, I thought the same thing.
Then I started questioning my memory...DID I SEE MENTION OF THE PRV???
I'm sure I did.
As his comment reads now, makes no sense.
 
PlumbGate said:
If you haven't installed it yet my advice is don't. It isn't necessary. Surprised this wasn't already stated.
Click to expand...

makes sense to me, try breaking it down into 3 statements
the subject is about a ball valve on the hot line

1]If you haven't installed it yet my advice is don't.
2]It isn't necessary.
3]Surprised this wasn't already stated.
 
My experience with making edits was, if I made them soon enough it didn't register an edit. But if I waited a longer period of time, after posting my comment, the "Last edited:..." thingy showed up.
 
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