is your house a slab foundation or raised floor/conventional.
Backed up Situation...need help...photo attached.
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My house is I think a slab foundation as It's definitely not raised. Its a bungalow style house and this is in the basement.
LiQuid: according to a few plumbers I've talked to, they don't get out of bed for a job this size. Stupid, I know, I would have thought that work is work. I'm still making some calls to try to find someone, I'm sure someone will do it.
LiQuid: according to a few plumbers I've talked to, they don't get out of bed for a job this size. Stupid, I know, I would have thought that work is work. I'm still making some calls to try to find someone, I'm sure someone will do it.
we charge 100 bucks an hour and minimum 1 hour call, which means this job would cost you likely 120 bucks or soo ( with parts and labour ) It is a stupid company that doesnt look after the smaller jobs as well as the bigger jobs.
Essentially the wye's need to be replaced with T-wyes ( sani-t ) and the laundry machiene should be the bottom p trap. you need to have the vent comin off of this trap arm ( the pipe downstream of the p trap ) Now the wye that has the condensate drain and the softener attached as in the picture, should have an air break before the connection, this can be achieved ( legally ) with an air break fitting, but could also be achieved ( legally but more ghetto ) by drilling a few holes into the dwv pipe beliw the connection, obviouslly being aware of where this condensate and softener drain would direct their water so as not to have the water leaking out of the holes.
an air break is an air break. these fixtures would usually be piped to just above a floor drain using an air gap fitting, or in the cas e of the furnace condensate drain would likely be secured on the cement floor pointing in the direction of a floor drain.
Phone aaround and you should be able to find a plumbing company that isnt so head strong and job shy.
Essentially the wye's need to be replaced with T-wyes ( sani-t ) and the laundry machiene should be the bottom p trap. you need to have the vent comin off of this trap arm ( the pipe downstream of the p trap ) Now the wye that has the condensate drain and the softener attached as in the picture, should have an air break before the connection, this can be achieved ( legally ) with an air break fitting, but could also be achieved ( legally but more ghetto ) by drilling a few holes into the dwv pipe beliw the connection, obviouslly being aware of where this condensate and softener drain would direct their water so as not to have the water leaking out of the holes.
an air break is an air break. these fixtures would usually be piped to just above a floor drain using an air gap fitting, or in the cas e of the furnace condensate drain would likely be secured on the cement floor pointing in the direction of a floor drain.
Phone aaround and you should be able to find a plumbing company that isnt so head strong and job shy.
Well, after all of your help, this is the final result. I just closed off the bottom one with a removable cap so I can snake it out down the road if I need to and then kept the top one as the washing machine drain. I ran the water softener and furnace drain through some pex down to my sump pit and drained them in there.
The original problem I had was that when the washing machine pumped it's water out, it overflowed out the top of it's drain and all over the floor. Is it possible, looking at the before picture, that I could have this solved? I snaked the drain once right before getting into this plumbing and I didn't find anything significant in there, so I am hoping this could solve it.
Thanks again, very much, for everyone's help, I really really appreciate it
Cheers,
~FOX~
The original problem I had was that when the washing machine pumped it's water out, it overflowed out the top of it's drain and all over the floor. Is it possible, looking at the before picture, that I could have this solved? I snaked the drain once right before getting into this plumbing and I didn't find anything significant in there, so I am hoping this could solve it.
Thanks again, very much, for everyone's help, I really really appreciate it
Cheers,
~FOX~
If the drain line is not partially or completely clogged, what you have there should be able to handle the laundry discharge.Technically, the air admittance vent that you have should be above the top of the drain standpipe.
Excellent point, I read up on that valve thinking there must be a minimum and recommended installation height, and all I found was a min 8"...but it makes sense to have it above the standpipe. When the water drains from the laundry machine now, the water comes almost all the way to the top of the vent pipe...approx. 2 inches from the top...does that mean anything?
Water should not be backing up to that height. It would only require just a little more water or a little more blockage to overflow onto the floor. It sounds as though the line needs to be snaked with a 2" cutter head to thoroughly clean the pipe back to it's original interior diameter.
One other thing comes to mind. I have not seen that exact model of AAV before. I do know that some of the cheaper ones aren't even worth the effort required to throw them away. If it is sticking closed, the resulting lack of a vent could cause the trap to drain slowly. Try using the machine with the AAV removed and see it that helps.
One other thing comes to mind. I have not seen that exact model of AAV before. I do know that some of the cheaper ones aren't even worth the effort required to throw them away. If it is sticking closed, the resulting lack of a vent could cause the trap to drain slowly. Try using the machine with the AAV removed and see it that helps.
Jesus christ what a mess
Only problem new plumbing code calls for 2", not 1 1/2" on a washing machine including the p-trap
Holy Crappp!!!
I can't believe I missed that! Once you mentioned it, I saw the pipe glued to the 1 1/2" connection of the AAV instead of the 2". The self inflicted beatings will not be pretty.
That is likely the cause of the backup right there.
I can't believe I missed that! Once you mentioned it, I saw the pipe glued to the 1 1/2" connection of the AAV instead of the 2". The self inflicted beatings will not be pretty.
That is likely the cause of the backup right there.
A 1.5" washer drain, vented, works just fine and has for many many years. Even a 1.5" drain, not vented stands a little bit of a chance. But when you have a tree like that, its just asking for trouble.
another photo added to my collection, lol
please remove that check vent fitting, im sure with the large amount of water dumping this wont allow enough air flow...
