Adding A Platform Under A Toilet

[RoscoeP]

I need to set a toilet on a raised platform for someone. I mentioned to them that they have premade platforms and raised seats, but their son is good at woodworking, so he will build one. I asked them to hold off on the build until
I got some information. I do not know a great deal about plumbing, but I have done enough to know I can handle it, as long as I can get some guidance. I imagine I will need to set a flange on top of the box. The plan is to have a box made of 2 by's with a plywood top. I have a few questions.
1) Will the flange need to fit flush with the top of the box?
2) What kind of connection will I need to connect to the bottom of the toilet and then down into the hole?
3)In the past, instead of a true wax seal I have used a rubber seal that seemed to work well. Is there a disadvantage to using that over wax?
4) I always have a bit of trouble placing the bowl over the anchor bolts. Is there a way to secure the bolts to make placing the bowl easier?
Thanks for any advice.

 

[breplum]

4. We use stainless steel washers and brass nuts to secure the bolts to the stainless steel closet ring.
The flange sits on top of the plywood, and non corrosive fasteners into the wood (GRK coated, Stainless steel or brass)

You don't mention materials.
Cut the existing flange off well below the existing fitting and extend based on the materials. No hub coupling or glue a coupling if plastic.
Only use a Stainless steel closet flange if working with plastic pipe.

 

[tweeter712]

I think what is underneath the toilet is a cast iron pipe. I don't know what type of flange is under the toilet. Forgive me for not understanding what you mean when you say "Cut the existing flange off well below the existing fitting and extend..." Are you saying that I need to remove the existing flange that is mounted to the floor? I have not removed the toilet yet, but the toilet is sitting on a tile floor, and the tiles are on concrete.

 

[Twowaxhack]

If you have cast iron pipe then you have a cast iron flange unless someone has replaced it with something else.

Remove the toilet and take some pics. There are many scenarios so pics of your particular situation will help us direct you.

How high do you want the rim of this toilet ? How high are you building your platform ?

 

[tweeter712]

There is a reason people say a picture is worth a thousand words. I will definitely post pics when I remove the toilet. We are doing a test with a platform we built. It looks like the right height will be about 21 or 22 inches, so the platform will be between 2 and a half and 3 and a half inches.

 

[MicEd69]

With the plumbing work you will have to do to get an additional 3 inches, you want to consider just a new toilet. They do make 21-inch-high bowl toilets, so with a regular seat, it puts the toilet height at 22 inches. All that is involved then is just removing the old one and installing the new one.

 

[tweeter712]

With the plumbing work you will have to do to get an additional 3 inches, you want to consider just a new toilet. They do make 21-inch-high bowl toilets, so with a regular seat, it puts the toilet height at 22 inches. All that is involved then is just removing the old one and installing the new one.

Good point. They want to make a platform for 2 reasons. 1) It will be cheaper. 2) If the height ends up not being quite right, he can make another box.
This isn't my rodeo, I am just one of the clowns.

 

[breplum]

To do the plumbing correctly, will entail breaking concrete. A real mess.
The last 21" toilet we installed, the purchaser/owner had it removed within a week. Way higher than she "imagined".

 

[MicEd69]

Good point. They want to make a platform for 2 reasons. 1) It will be cheaper. 2) If the height ends up not being quite right, he can make another box.
This isn't my rodeo, I am just one of the clowns.

I'm not sure you understand the amount of work you will need to do to install the toilet on this "platform", and then lowering it as the height ends up being too tall. And as breplum implied, 21 inches is hard to imagine until you sit on it for a week or so.

But if you must proceed with the platform method of increasing the toilet height, perhaps one of these will work for you.



It says you can use this in cast iron pipe, but I would only use this on smooth PVC pipe. So that means replacing the waste line as breplum said, starting from under the slab to the height required for the toilet. Then if the toilet needs lowering, you can cut off the PVC pipe and lower the toilet without having to mess with glue. I would make the "platform" of solid wood around the toilet flange, that is not a 3/4" plywood over a 2x3 frame. Then use the largest Stainless Steel counter sunk screws that fit the flange with a minimum length of 2 1/2" and use all 8 holes. Also, be sure the "platform" is fully anchored to the floor.

 

[Twowaxhack]

This is a project that gets thrown into “ I have more time than money that I’m willing to spend “

I suppose it could be considered custom work if it’s done properly. It would probably negatively affect the value of the property.

 

[fixitron]

My concern is how you will secure the box to the tile/concrete floor. In my experience, at least 2/3 of all residential toilets are loose on the floor, which can break the wax seal. Your box can compound that problem.

 

[TomFOhio]

Do we have two different people doing the same kind of project? Rosco and Tweeter

 

[CT18]

This is going to be nothing but a headache for a lot of years if not done absolutely correct. You just cant jamb a pipe into the existing flange and extend up to a new flange. You need to remove old flange and extend pipe up to new flange. Like someone said above the box needs to be anchored securely to the floor. Then if that height doesn't work you have to start over. Why not try comfort height toilet with ADA seat

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

Of course it has been pointed out that they make ADA compliant toilets in varying heights, and also premade toilet platforms. Reinventing the wheel is generally never a good idea.

As a home inspector, if I saw something like that I would note that the buyer should request copies of any approvals from the local authorities that it was done correctly and to code. I would also then be on high alert in the inspection that there might be other kinds of homebrew projects throughout the home to be on the lookout for. Buyers look at these kinds of things in one way only: what will the cost and trouble be to make it correct?