2” PVC leak advice

[Reg Rice]

Can someone give me best way to repair this 2" T leaking at each side? I am not familiar with the type of T. The ribbing makes me think there are threads involved, but I see glue at all three ends also. Can someone help with info about best method to repair. I posted picture in "media" under my name. Reg Rice. You can see the leaks on both sides.
Thanks!

 

[Jeff Handy]

The picture is zoomed in too close, all three connections cannot be seen.
What else is going on there?

Zoom out to give us context, and give more written details.
Such as, is this a gravity drain issue, or is there pumped pressure in the pipes?

Sometimes the ribs indicate a twist-tight type of connection, with rubber or flexible washers making the seal when properly tightened.

More and better pics please, and more info.

Is that a pump in the pic, or a blower, or what?

Looks like that grey conduit connection has also failed.

Sloppy globs of purple primer might hint at a moron doing a crappy job of gluing pvc joints.

Also, sometimes amateurs just use purple primer and no glue to connect pvc joints, not common but I run across it now and then.

With about $15.00 in new pvc fittings and a short piece of pipe, plus a kit of primer/glue for about $8.00 more, you could cut all that junk out and redo in about 15 mins to half hour
If you have enough play or wiggle room to push and pull while gluing it all up.

 

[Reg Rice]

Thanks for the input.
This is under my paved driveway. Yes there is a control wire for a float control on a water tank that is in the grey conduit that has failed, and there is a 3/4 inch under the 2" that is the well water supply to tank. The 2" is under standard pressure from utility.
There is zero play in the pipes...I would rather not have to dig a long ways in three directions (if possible alternative connectors?) as I will have to tear up several more yards of asphalt ...
The pump is a submersible to empty the hole.
Yes, the job was clearly amateurs.
What is the best way to repair? Are the sliding connectors I see acceptable to use? Which of the three should be the slider connectors...I am thinking I have to use at least two of those...or is that just stupid cuz I will be back replacing the whole thing again in a year or two?

Thanks again for any suggestions/help
RRice

 

[Jeff Handy]

Can’t tell for sure, but that tee and those pipes look more like 1-1/2 inch.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You can cut that tee out, then buy a more compact tee, and glue in some short stubs of pvc pipe.

Cut the stubs so that, when you hold everything in place for a test fit, the stubs are just under 1/4 inch short of reaching the pipes they will connect to.

Then you can attach that new tee assembly with no-hub connectors.

They are a rubber sleeve with a strong metal clamp, that surrounds and supports the rubber.
You can slide the rubber sleeves onto the ends of the three pipe stubs, then roll the open end back down over the attached end, to temporarily get it out of the way.
There is a little ridge inside the rubber sleeve, which will properly position the sleeve to go equally onto each pvc end.

Put the assembly in place, then roll the rubber sleeves onto the ends of the three pipes.
Then put the metal clamps on, and gradually tighten them equally on both ends of the clamp, until very snug.

Most no-hub clamps can wrap around the rubber after everything is connected.
If yours can’t be opened up and then closed up again like this, you can just place them on either ends of the pvc pipes you are connecting.
Keep them loose and out of the way, then you can slide them over the rubber and tighten them down evenly on each end.

If a no-hub coupling is not sufficient for your water pressure, a pro on here will probably advise a better alternative.
There are similar types of connectors that are heavier duty.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You could also use unions like this, on each end.
But your cut lengths have to be exact, and a very tight fit.
https://www.spadepot.com/Pipe-Union-Assembly-2S-x-2S-P9518C718.aspx

 

[Reg Rice]

Thanks for the input Jeff.
Will the no hub couplings work with 80 PSI water pressure?
What is your opinion about those slip fix devices that allow gluing because they can slide with O rings?

 

[Reg Rice]

BTW...it is 2"

 

[Reg Rice]

But I agree with you that the T looks to be smaller than the main lines?!

 

[Jeff Handy]

No hubs are not rated for pressure, really intended for drain or vents.
But I have used them for sump pump connections, and very powerful garden pond pump connections.

You really need a pro on here to advise you better than I have.

No need to have a flood, haha!

 

[Jeff Handy]

https://www.amazon.com/ERA-Sch-Inch-Union-Socket/dp/B015QGBX58

Here is a schedule 80 2 inch union, pack of three.
Schedule 80 is stronger than sched 40.

You would have to cut, fit, and glue everything very precisely.
You would have a tiny bit of wiggle room with regards to the center connection.
But the two outside connections would need to be cut and glued up just right, so that you pretty much have to squeeze the assembly in there between the two pipes.
You can coat the neoprene gaskets with plumber’s grease, so that you can make everything a tight fit and then coax the assembly in there.
Because the three pipes are all buried, the unions are not able to pull them closer in as they are screwed tight together.

Once again, maybe a pro will jump in and give a much better solution!

 

[Jeff Handy]

Here are some compression type fittings.
Including a tee, with the middle being a solvent weld.

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/pvccomp.html

 

[breplum]

PVC becomes embrittled over time and is not recommended under paved surfaces. Ground expansion/contraction will crack joints over time.
PVC is used by someone using low cost and not smart planning.
My plumbing contracting company gets calls for cracked PVC water mains all the time.
With most instances we use the stainless steel water heater flex connectors (they are readily available up to 2"). When underground, we utilize concrete or plastic utility access boxes to allow for long term access to those flex connectors.
Replacing/repairing your tee fitting with PVC is just asking for failure.
The telescoping PVC repair sleeves might work for a while, but the forces in all directions will stress and break somewhere, guaranteed.

 

[frodo]

To me.
It looks like someone who had no idea what they were doing rigged up a tee.

, because it is under the driveway,You do not want unions,expanding joints or flex connectors

i suggest that you offset the piping to hook it up. this will allow you to easily install the new tee and will give you a bit of a expansion loop for ground movement

use Pvc cleaner and pvc ''blue glue''