1960’s Manufacturer ID help

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Some of these older shower and tub valves may be old designs with stems and such but the bodies are rocksolid. i’ve run across some older Price Pfister‘s that looks like they’re about 5 pounds of solid brass. The trick is finding the right replacement stems and all the other replaceable parts and doing all of it. I would also throw in doing all the trim and new handles if you can get them. Many of the old original handles were diecast chrome plated pot metal and they get brittle over time. Taking a cue from the classic car world I would say you are looking to restore this not just repair it.

it’s a perfect job for a homeowner who doesn’t really care much about time, where a professional plumber has to charge for it including the time it takes to research the replacement parts. So remove as much as you can take it to a professional plumbing house and see if you can find the parts. If you can, get everything. If not…

A new assembly may be in order.
 
Mitchell-DIY-Guy said:
Some of these older shower and tub valves may be old designs with stems and such but the bodies are rocksolid. i’ve run across some older Price Pfister‘s that looks like they’re about 5 pounds of solid brass. The trick is finding the right replacement stems and all the other replaceable parts and doing all of it. I would also throw in doing all the trim and new handles if you can get them. Many of the old original handles were diecast chrome plated pot metal and they get brittle over time. Taking a cue from the classic car world I would say you are looking to restore this not just repair it.

it’s a perfect job for a homeowner who doesn’t really care much about time, where a professional plumber has to charge for it including the time it takes to research the replacement parts. So remove as much as you can take it to a professional plumbing house and see if you can find the parts. If you can, get everything. If not…

A new assembly may be in order.
Click to expand...

Agreed! That’s kinda how I’m looking at this now. I was a professional gunsmith for some years, and I always enjoyed a good restoration. So I’m looking forward to this!

Twowaxhack shared a link with a kit, and I found another one too but the middle stem is different. I think I may need to get the middle stem out of mine to make sure I ordered the right one.

https://www.fergusonrepairparts.com/item/p021-01705//
https://www.faucetshark.com/Briggs-Three-Handle-Rebuild-Kit-BR113KIT-p/fshark-br113kit.htm
 
Professional repair plumbers carry calipers on their truck to measure the stem. I also carry seat and handle gauges.

There are also specialty repair plumbing shops that stock huge inventories of faucet parts. We have two local.

Or you can get online and pull up stem identifying pages to locate the correct parts.

With the stem in my hand I can usually locate the part within 5 minutes. If I don’t have it in my inventory I can usually purchase it local or if it’s no rush I can order it.

You just need to find the right professional, we are not all equal. Not by a long shot......

For the past 100 years my family has called it plumbing repair, not plumbing restoration. Have it your way 🤣

It seems some here have never had the pleasure of dealing with a true professional......
 
Mitchell-DIY-Guy said:
RIGHT. Because honestly they are very hard to find.
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Very. I’ve used several different plumbers in my area. None were scammers by any means but certainly fit the bill of the guy who just wants to replace things the fastest way possible. And I don’t blame them. They have a career to keep. If they took the time to do every job the slow and delicate way, they’d be out of a job. Especially in my area that has a lot of lower class customers. People just want it done fast and as cheaply as possible. That doesn’t make the plumber wrong or bad, he’s just meeting demand. But in some cases like mine, the slower route might end up cheaper for me, but if I payed him to spend the time to do it this way it’d be a fortune, and he’d lose the next 10 calls or more that came through to the next plumber in line. Business is business.
 
I have customers email me pics of their faucets. Most of the time if it has original trim I can recognize the valve.

If I lived in the OP’s area it would cost him about $225 for me to rebuild that faucet. It would take 30 minutes if I could identify correctly and bring the parts. It’s a quick repair once you’ve done it 1,000 times.

I have a very high success rate, that’s why I do it........

To replace the faucet the tile would most likely need to be replaced. If the tile was solid I’d cut it with a grinder and hepa vac to catch the dust.

Then install a Delta 1700. Costs around $700. Different areas will have different prices, cost of doing business and living varies greatly all across the country.
 
Well! After a very long battle with a company I highly recommend never using (faucet shark), I finally got my parts! Seats, stems, and handles all replaced! Working perfectly and no leaks!8EF83C07-C46B-46BC-B6FE-87F6061C472E.jpegA3741F46-2A6F-4F88-9B60-800A7C7BBC83.jpeg861A4207-F7DE-496D-9C69-4E66F935ACF8.jpeg
 
My OCD likes how you lined all the handles up nice and purdy!

Now, about that ugly old moldy caulk.....
 
Caulk remover, it softens it in a few hours, then it scrapes off easy with putty knife, flat screwdriver, plastic scrapers, paper towels, scotchbrite pad.
Dig out the buried stuff with flat screwdriver, razor knife, old dull chisel, whatever fits in the grooves.
Clean up residue with rubbing alcohol and green scotchbrite scrubby.
Hit everything with Tilex to kill mold and clean up old soap film.
Rinse and wipe down with more alcohol.
Let dry for at least overnight, with a fan blowing on it.
Lay out new caulk lines with blue painters tape.
If tape is not sticking well, you did not clean the surfaces well enough.
 
There are many latex caulk removers.
Caulk Be Gone from Dap is one I have used.
It smells nice too.
It is a gel type.
Liquid ones can sometimes work better with paper towels laid over the remover, to keep it wet and in place.
Your caulk looks old enough not to be pure silicone, which is tougher to remove but a similar process.
 
Jeff Handy said:
There are many latex caulk removers.
Caulk Be Gone from Dap is one I have used.
It smells nice too.
It is a gel type.
Liquid ones can sometimes work better with paper towels laid over the remover, to keep it wet and in place.
Your caulk looks old enough not to be pure silicone, which is tougher to remove but a similar process.
Click to expand...

Awesome! I’m definitely going to be lookin into that in the near future. We’re doing a minor update to parts of the bathroom and my wife was just talking about the caulking today! Thanks!
 
I am assuming that middle knob is the shower diverter correct? I hate my tub/shower arrangement with the pull up or push down diverter on the tub spout for a couple of reasons: 1. The pull up diverter stops working after about six months due to lime build up or whatever and 2. my kid is so rambunctious that the adhesive holding the tub spout is quickly broken free from the wall no matter how closely or tightly I install the spout to the tiles before applying the adhesive.

What type of valving system is this known as and are they available today? If so, any brand/model number would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
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