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Isolate the boiler from the piping system and pressure up system to 60psi and observe is there is a drop. Be sure relief valve isn't going to get subject to this pressure as it will pop. If it drops you know it's on system side. You could then isolate the boiler and test it to 60 psi as well...

I always use abs with trap adaptors and have never had an issue. All my guys do the same thing. Have seen abs outlast the basket strainers. It's easy to take apart and clean by removing trap adaptors and union on p trap.

Check to see if the rough in is upside down. I have seen it installed upside down and water came our both head and spout.

Code in Canada will not let you use 90 bends on drainage unless it is a vent or carries waste from the horizontal to the vertical. 2 45 degree elbows are needed to do a 90. That cross tee is wrong. Do not use that. Use two y fittings with 45 elbows into them to make the turn. Tees are not...

You should have hammer arresters installed on both the hot and cold water lines to your washer. The hammer is caused from valves that open and close very quickly. The arresters will stop the water hammer.

You can put a little pipe dope on it that's rated for gas. Usually tho if it lines up good use two wrenches. One on the union nut and the other to back up one of the other sides so it doesn't spin when you give it a good tightening. Make sure ya soap test it for leaks when your done.

Sorry bud but this won't work. Some times you have to push pretty hard to get the snake through the p trap. Don't see how you could do that with this thing. Also like was said before it would scratch the hell out of the toilet.

Try blowing it out the other way. Back the way it Came. Open up a cold pipe where you can and hit it hard with air or water through the taps. You could take the tub spout off and attach to The 1/2 there for your compressor. Open up the Cold water handle and let er buck.

For sure change your prv. I would not recommend you bury one after your curb stop. If you are worried you could dig it up find where it tees off and cap off that. Then take the line that runs out to your hydrants and fish it into your house and tie it in after your new prv. How ever I would not...

Check your incoming water screen. It could be plugged. You may want to check your gas pressures as well. Are you on a well? Has it been doing this from the beginning? Navian heaters are usually really good. There could be a build up on the flow sensor. Your dip switches could be set wrong.

That makes seances. Then the return water would not come back to cold causing the boiler to condensate. It's hard to tell with out looking at the wires. How ever your operating stats in the box too the left of that should keep the boiler running at temperature. That switch Could also tell the...

When you turn the knob does it click? That clicking sound should be the "thermostat " inside the valve. When you hear that the rank should shut off or turn on instantly. If it is a tank that is

What are they set for? Can't tell on my screen

It could be your operating stats. Depends what your running off your boiler but if it's base board heating you could run it between 150-170. That way the boiler will not short cycle. The high limit stat should shut down the boiler if it over heats. It is a safety

Has it always done this? The drain pipe could be passing through a very tight hole and be contracting then expanding again due to temperature change.

Why can't you cut out the cast and install an Mj or fernco and run abs piping instead.