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I was all set for tankless...and ended up getting a hybrid electric...really happy with it, very efficient. But I have solar, too, which figured into the decision.

Hi, I have a bathroom addition ongoing and the contractor said that I need to have a 2" connection for this linear drain. The outlet on the drain is 1 1/2 inches and not set up for a flange. The contractor showed me this flange that it needs to connect to (pic 3). I'm thinking that the opening...

you say that, but the pump mfg says not. I don't have the math to prove anything, so I'm gonna go with my limited understanding of pipe flow and what they said. I don't see how the hot water is gonna move that much faster without a significant pressure increase.

it's essentially a closed system because there's nothing to accommodate an increase in volume, aside from opening a tap. Also, I have a prv.

in a closed system, the ability to move water at a higher rate will require more pressure and/or more volume. Since the volume is restricted by the pipe, then it would have to be pressure. Recirculation pumps don't provide that kind of pressure, and you wouldn't want that kind of pressure in a...

Grundfos says 30 seconds or however long it takes now (unless the water is preheated, of course). So there must be something that you're not understanding, probably having to do with closed pipe systems.

you guys are good at drawing schematics (and congratulating yourselves), but not at fluid dynamics. The following statement came from Grundfos: The pump does not increase any pressure but circulates the water. If there is no water movement then the water cools and takes time to reach the faucet...

maybe it is, if you can't explain it

without preheating, I'm not understanding how the hot water is gonna get to the faucet any faster.

how, in a closed pipe system, is the water gonna move any faster without increasing the pressure? going from 1gpm to 16gpm...isn't that quite a bit of pressure increase?

First, take the switch thing off the table (personal preference; I don't want to have to school visitors on how to get hot water). baby steps...with no pump switch, what keeps the cold water from coming out of the faucet when demand is initiated?

if I knew...then I would know!

there's something I'm not understanding, I guess

1) running the pump only when hot is needed means waiting for a gallon+ of cold to arrive (and the pipe is 3/4 for some length of the 40 feet). 2) I doubt that the pipe can be insulated as well as the small tank. 2a) I've only heard the main tank's heat pump running after I've used a few...

I would expect a switching valve to be involved, but I haven't got that far yet. And I would think that storing/heating a 2.5g insulated tank is more efficient than what's in the copper pipe.

I appreciate the responses!

thanks, but I think I like the more integrated approach with the tank, as well as simplicity and cost of installation. The tank won't be much of an investment, so I can see how it goes with that for now.

of course, I'm interested! That is the tradeoff, as you note--stored hot water in a pipe vs. in a tank. Less surface area in a tank, so I went that way. Also, it will be solar powered, at least when the solar is generating; I notice that the hybrid tank cycles very little when there's no...

the way it was explained to me by one of the PoU manufacturers I called prior is that the small tank will provide hot water until the hot from the main tank arrives, which is a little over one gallon's worth. Not sure what the setup is, but that's how it was explained to me.