A modified lug nut torque multiplier would work to remove anodes in tight spaces.
That’s what I use to remove my wife’s hand from my wallet, works sometimes.
That’s what I use to remove my wife’s hand from my wallet, works sometimes.
Awful flat, I bet it spills a lot until it gets hotI hope there’s a CO monitor nearby. That flu looks like it’s as close to horizontal as you can get and not be back graded.
Right after I mounted the heater I replaced the copper pipe from the P&T valve with a hose that goes into the sink. In my entire 77 years I have never seen a P&T valve open.
The horizontal vent pipe? Don't know why it is horizontal. The new heater is exactly the same height as the old one, but its diameter is one inch larger, moving the vent pipe 1/2 inch farther away from the flue. Maybe that's the problem. No signs of condensation from it though. I'll keep an eye on it.
As far as the torque multiplier wrench goes, it won't stop the tank from turning when trying to use it to remove the anode.
Seems a 3-foot pipe would be a lot cheaper and more effective to boot.I’d buy one of these if I took anodes out.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VEVOR-1-58...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Seems a 3-foot pipe would be a lot cheaper and more effective to boot.
First off your hot water tank is not strapped to hold it in place during a earth quake. I do not know the regs in your area but if there was an earth quake the tank would fall and rip open the gas line.How does one keep the tank from turning when one uses a breaker bar to remove the anode? My heater sits on a small, 2-foot-high pedestal with very little room for me to stand. See below:
the tank will be full so it is not going to dance around like and empty one.
Thanks for your comment, I wasn't aware of that; just learned something today.Which is why they created the segmented anode rods.
Amazing how many water heaters are installed in basements on a 18" high pedestal…
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