Snapped Threaded Elbow assembly – how to remove male threaded section

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deluko

deluko

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I went to bump my pool filter the other day, and when I turned the pump back on, the male threaded elbow coming out of the pump to the filter snapped, leaving the threaded male section of the elbow still inside the female threaded output from the pool pump.

I tried backing the threaded section out of the pump, but it's stubborn. I'm wondering the best way to back out this small male threaded section without damaging the threads on the pump (obviously the elbow is worthless).

I have a new elbow assembly coming tomorrow, but obviously will need to get this section out before I can install it.

Thanks for your help!
 

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You might could back it out with a dull chisel and hammer. Lefty loosey

Or cut some slots with a dremel and collapse it or use the slits to put flathead screwdrivers into and turn.
 
Here is a pic of a spare pool pump and threaded male insert. I just can't understand why your threads are visible thru solid pipe. Maybe got dry and hot, and became fused? 20230918_082213.jpg
 
deluko said:
I went to bump my pool filter the other day, and when I turned the pump back on, the male threaded elbow coming out of the pump to the filter snapped, leaving the threaded male section of the elbow still inside the female threaded output from the pool pump.

I tried backing the threaded section out of the pump, but it's stubborn. I'm wondering the best way to back out this small male threaded section without damaging the threads on the pump (obviously the elbow is worthless).

I have a new elbow assembly coming tomorrow, but obviously will need to get this section out before I can install it.

Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...
Is that plastic, or metal? If it's plastic, heat can soften the remaining section and once it reaches the point where it can be deformed, a screwdriver or narrow chisel can be used to drive the softened area toward the center. If it's metal, a jigsaw with a short blade made for cutting metal can be used to cut part way through in two places about 3/8" apart- once it has been cut, you can use a screwdriver or chisel to drive the narrow piece toward the center, for removal. Once that's out of the way, you can drive one of the edges next to the gap toward the center enough to grab it with a pliers, or drive the ring in the direction that will back it out- since it's no longer intact, it should be much easier to remove.
 
havasu said:
Here is a pic of a spare pool pump and threaded male insert. I just can't understand why your threads are visible thru solid pipe. Maybe got dry and hot, and became fused?
Click to expand...

The pipe is clear, actually, so I think it's just because it's an older style pipe. The replacement I ordered is opaque white.


GymBag said:
Is that plastic, or metal? If it's plastic, heat can soften the remaining section and once it reaches the point where it can be deformed, a screwdriver or narrow chisel can be used to drive the softened area toward the center. If it's metal, a jigsaw with a short blade made for cutting metal can be used to cut part way through in two places about 3/8" apart- once it has been cut, you can use a screwdriver or chisel to drive the narrow piece toward the center, for removal. Once that's out of the way, you can drive one of the edges next to the gap toward the center enough to grab it with a pliers, or drive the ring in the direction that will back it out- since it's no longer intact, it should be much easier to remove.
Click to expand...

It's plastic... the heat is a great idea. I thought about trying to gently sink some screws and use that to back it out, but perhaps heating it up until slightly pliable would be the best way. I'm sure once I get a section out, it should be easy to pull the remaining bits, but will see.

Thanks for your help! Going to try this today and will report back on results.
 
I'm wondering if you used a basin wrench with the jaws fully opened, it may come out quickly? Or, a hack saw blade cut down the side enough to peal it out?
 
Ok, so the key word that helped me was "chisel." I was able to use the chisel tip to dig into the broken male threaded part slightly, and use the back edge of the chisel to put pressure on the top of it, and turn firmly but carefully to back the thread out.
Thanks all for the tips! Helped me get there.
 

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Some ideas that I've used on metal that may be helpful for next time:
Lots of rental houses have Internal Pipe Wrenches. They look like giant Easy-Outs. Maybe a Spud Wrench will work. Sharpen the edge of the jaws of water pump pliers (aka Channelocks) and shove them in, spread the handle and turn.

Just a few thoughts.

PS: I saw a guy remove a PVC fitting from a steel one by dumping PVC primer in & lighting it. Then, with needle nose, he pulled the goopy thing out. Safe? Doubt it. Effective? It worked for that guy.
 
The only reason I knew about using heat is from watching a video by Tom Richard Threthewey, from This Old House- he was using heat to separate two PVC fittings and once it was hot enough, he just pushed in at one point and it worked.
 
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"This Old House" was really informative. I wish it was back on the air. Maybe it is, but can never find the channel.
 
I use to cringe when I’d see “ Richard “ the plumber working. You can tell ole boy hadn’t been in the field working much.

What a fitting name for him, “ he was a real Richard.
 
havasu said:
"This Old House" was really informative. I wish it was back on the air. Maybe it is, but can never find the channel.
Click to expand...
If you have Roku, it's on channels 456, 457 & 458. Free

Channel 456 is the regular show where they have a giant budget and fix peoples' houses.
Channel 457 is almost always episodes of "Ask This Old House"
Channel 458 is kind of a "Makers" channel where they do projects, but with different hosts.

Also, at least in the Detroit area Over The Air channels, it is on one of the PBS stations. Maybe your area, too.

I like watching it, but get frustrated when they say stuff like "It's important to use this particular glue" and never give the name of the glue. And, I get frustrated when they throw so much into the dumpster for the landfill.
The painter guy Mauro is my favorite. He teaches well.
 
I have an old house in Florida and an old but solid pool. I've replaced several pumps over time and what I've found is that after about 12 years (if the pump even last that long), the plastic threads will always leak if you try to replace/fix parts onto it. I guess the plastic deforms and/or the plastic shrinks or is microscopically disentigrating from the chlorine. But I remember the last time I replaced my pool pump, I tried and failed many times to reuse some old threads because it was part of the old pump body that I wanted to rebuild and save. Even using teflon tape or pipe sealant.... it would still leak. I finally gave up and realized a new pump would save energy anyways. They make commerical grade bronze pool pump bodies. The threads are cast bronze and should last forever but they start at 5,000 dollars. A little too much for my budget but I drool over thinking how I would never have to replace some of the parts. (probably just rebuild the motor every 10 or 12 years and a few internal plastic impellers). The funny thing is if you were to order a new inground pool built in Florida, it would start at 60,000 dollars, at least where I live. For 60,000 dollars. I would demand a 5,000 dollar bronze pool pump be part of the deal.
 
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I was taught how to cut two parallel lines about an 1/2 apart in the threaded pipe that was broken off inside the fitting. so the just the broken part was cut but not the fitting . then with a thin chisel stating at the top hammer it out leaving a slot . then with chisel hammer in a counter clock wise that slot so the pipe unscrews . this is really for those that are real plumbers and not some jack.
 
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