Side loaded Shouldered Forged Eye bolt
- Thread starter Twowaxhack
- Start date
Help Support Plumbing Forums:
You are only talking about 150 pounds. You are WAY safe with those materials.
But now seeing your conditions, I think I would have attached a couple of 2x4s to the stairs as a guide and used the pully setup to slide the water heater up the stairs. Either leave the water heater in the box or cover the stairs with a canvas tarp, moving blankets, or whatever to keep the water heater from being scratched.
A lot less power to get it up and the old one down and safer too.
But now seeing your conditions, I think I would have attached a couple of 2x4s to the stairs as a guide and used the pully setup to slide the water heater up the stairs. Either leave the water heater in the box or cover the stairs with a canvas tarp, moving blankets, or whatever to keep the water heater from being scratched.
A lot less power to get it up and the old one down and safer too.
Hire a local football player to push while you pull up the ladder.
The stair hinges are too narrow to go that way.
I lifted it as far as I could go vertically then with one hand held the load while I grabbed the tag line I had on the drain and lowered the heater just enough to pull the bottom horizontal past the hinges of the staircase onto the floor of the attic. Then I slid a piece of plywood over the opening I came up through. Then I was able to release the load.
The puppies lived
The second pic shows plywood over my target hole. I did tyst do I could drill the rafter and install my anchor/pulley
I put 3/4” plywood on each side of the 2x8 to support it. Probably wasn’t necessary. It all held rock solid, handled it with ease.
I put 3/4” plywood on each side of the 2x8 to support it. Probably wasn’t necessary. It all held rock solid, handled it with ease.
Last edited:
Too much liability.
The ladder hinges wouldn’t allow the heater to come up the steps. I had to fold the steps to get them out of the way and lift the heater straight up all the way until it hit the rafter then grab the tag line on the bottom of the heater. Then slightly lower the heater and swing the bottom through the square hole I came up through onto the floor of the attic. Then while holding the load with one hand, slide a plywood panel over the hole then release the load.
Last edited:
So, it worked as planned?
Yes. Easier to lift than I thought it would be.
bkspero
New Member
Glad it worked out well.
I'm late to the party here, but thought I'd put in my 2 cents anyway for the future as no one suggested this alternative that IMO is easier than a pully network. A come-along (such as https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton...CzxwAbU78zDv6f95q2CU_5LXLizm9JuRoCC0YQAvD_BwE).
Lots of lifting capacity. Ratchets to maintain its position after each stroke of the handle so there is no danger of losing grip and dropping the item. Easy to manipulate by a single person. I used one to lift a furnace into my attic through the opening for a set of pull-down stairs. Didn't break a sweat.
I'm late to the party here, but thought I'd put in my 2 cents anyway for the future as no one suggested this alternative that IMO is easier than a pully network. A come-along (such as https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton...CzxwAbU78zDv6f95q2CU_5LXLizm9JuRoCC0YQAvD_BwE).
Lots of lifting capacity. Ratchets to maintain its position after each stroke of the handle so there is no danger of losing grip and dropping the item. Easy to manipulate by a single person. I used one to lift a furnace into my attic through the opening for a set of pull-down stairs. Didn't break a sweat.
The hinges cut the opening down to about 19” . Scratching the heater isn’t a concern. I inform customers that the heater may be scratched or cosmetic dents to the outer shell may occur.
But if I damage the hinges or break the stairs I would have to replace the stairs. That would cost around $1,000.
The area where I brought the heater up was 22” x 22”, the area marked in blue. I think the heater measured 20.25”, so I had about 3/4” on each side of the heater to hit the largest part of the opening. The handrail also makes the opening even narrower.
There’s also a HVAC unit at the top of the stairs. You have to climb into the attic to the side once you get to the top of the steps.
I’ll get more pics tomorrow. I’m going back to do some other work and I’m going to check my connections and set the timer on the hot water pump.
But if I damage the hinges or break the stairs I would have to replace the stairs. That would cost around $1,000.
The area where I brought the heater up was 22” x 22”, the area marked in blue. I think the heater measured 20.25”, so I had about 3/4” on each side of the heater to hit the largest part of the opening. The handrail also makes the opening even narrower.
There’s also a HVAC unit at the top of the stairs. You have to climb into the attic to the side once you get to the top of the steps.
I’ll get more pics tomorrow. I’m going back to do some other work and I’m going to check my connections and set the timer on the hot water pump.
Did you just lift it into the pan? What is the secret?
The pan is sitting on the attic floor.
Here’s how I get the heater into the pan.
I put a piece of 2x4 about 6” long inside the pan about 3-4 inches from the side I’m approaching from.
I then stack two pieces of 2x8 on top of each other that are about 16” long. This builds me up 3” off the attic floor and a little bit taller than the pan. I push these boards up against the pan.
I lean the heater over a little, then roll it up onto the 2x8’s. And then roll it into the pan. Once it’s in the pan I lean the heater over and pull the small piece of 2x4 out from under it.
I’ve also done it without the 2x4 in the pan.
If you do bend the pan a little just straighten it. It’s no big deal.
Pictures say it all
That garage pic is exactly the same location and even color of my neighbors garage, where im doing the w/h install!
Get you some strong help or rig some pulleys. Pulleys and rope are expensive to use just once……
This is ten minutes of awesomeness for me to read this morning. I had to make a ramp down my narrow crawlspace stairs and slide mine down. This thread is next level hassle. Did you charge a premium for all the engineering just to get it up there?
wpns
Well-Known Member
Also too late but marine supply stores will have nylon anchor and dock lines (and pulleys) in whatever size you need
Mitchell-DIY-Guy
Well-Known Member
"Rated" eye bolts should be marked with the grade, just like regular bolts, but sometimes with the weight rating.
You are absolutely right in your assessment that the weight rating is for full tension load at 0-5 degrees.
ASME B30.26 states that between 6-15 degrees, you are at 55% of rated load., and between 16-90 degrees 25% of rated load.
Just a WAG here but I suspect that the eyebolt may be the strongest part of your system, and some of the other components the weaker links.
I cannot really tell from the photos, but instead of jerry rigging a solution with some of the parts you show, is it possible to use a "come along" lift? Something like this? They come in all sizes and shapes, usually in ratings measured in tons or fractions thereof, from the usual gang of suspects (Northern Tool, Grainger, etc.) If you can find one with a long enough steel cable the rope issue is a non issue. You can find ones priced between $60-$80.
Years ago, my father and I constructed an engine hoist made from a come along, and an A-Frame made with 2x4s. There were two A frames, reinforced with a cross member, and a horizontal 2x6 piece to connect the two. Looked like a children's swing set frame but made of wood. It was all portable. We'd often take it to a junkyard or even to someone's home to remove an engine from an automobile. Never had a failure or even any cracking sounds, and these engines were a bit heavier than an empty water heater.
You are absolutely right in your assessment that the weight rating is for full tension load at 0-5 degrees.
ASME B30.26 states that between 6-15 degrees, you are at 55% of rated load., and between 16-90 degrees 25% of rated load.
Just a WAG here but I suspect that the eyebolt may be the strongest part of your system, and some of the other components the weaker links.
I cannot really tell from the photos, but instead of jerry rigging a solution with some of the parts you show, is it possible to use a "come along" lift? Something like this? They come in all sizes and shapes, usually in ratings measured in tons or fractions thereof, from the usual gang of suspects (Northern Tool, Grainger, etc.) If you can find one with a long enough steel cable the rope issue is a non issue. You can find ones priced between $60-$80.
Years ago, my father and I constructed an engine hoist made from a come along, and an A-Frame made with 2x4s. There were two A frames, reinforced with a cross member, and a horizontal 2x6 piece to connect the two. Looked like a children's swing set frame but made of wood. It was all portable. We'd often take it to a junkyard or even to someone's home to remove an engine from an automobile. Never had a failure or even any cracking sounds, and these engines were a bit heavier than an empty water heater.
