warrenmichaels
New Member
Hi,
This is my first post. I am setting up an aquarium. For a filter, I am using what's known as a "refugium". A refugium is a tank (in my case, 20 gallons) that is separate from the main aquarium. It will also be below the main aquarium.
The idea is that an AC pump is submerged in the refugium. This pump pushes water uphill and into the main tank. This raises the level of water in the tank so that it overflows back into the refugium.
Above all, I want to avoid a fire. It seems that if the assembly should become jammed and overheat in such a way as to keep the pump submerged, there won't be a fire risk. If the assembly becomes clogged in such a way that water can't flow INTO the refugium, the pump will soon empty it of water to the point where the pump will no longer push water. At this point, the water level will be quite low (probably less than an inch deep).
I don't know what the maximum depth of the refugium will be. It might be as deep as 10 inches, or less (depending on the design I choose).
I've seen bilge switches that use a "paddle" that would work for this. Unfortunately, those switches are built with DC pumps in mind. This must work for an AC pump. (In case you're wondering, the brand and model of the pump will probably be Eheim 1260 (with a power consumption of 65W (120V/60Hz).
Is there any obvious flaw in my idea of using a float switch as a failsafe? Should I use more than one?
If one could be recommended, that would be great. Also, I might want to use one as a redundancy in the aquarium itself, in case it empties and the heater element (200 Watt) is left exposed. Thanks a bunch.
This is my first post. I am setting up an aquarium. For a filter, I am using what's known as a "refugium". A refugium is a tank (in my case, 20 gallons) that is separate from the main aquarium. It will also be below the main aquarium.
The idea is that an AC pump is submerged in the refugium. This pump pushes water uphill and into the main tank. This raises the level of water in the tank so that it overflows back into the refugium.
Above all, I want to avoid a fire. It seems that if the assembly should become jammed and overheat in such a way as to keep the pump submerged, there won't be a fire risk. If the assembly becomes clogged in such a way that water can't flow INTO the refugium, the pump will soon empty it of water to the point where the pump will no longer push water. At this point, the water level will be quite low (probably less than an inch deep).
I don't know what the maximum depth of the refugium will be. It might be as deep as 10 inches, or less (depending on the design I choose).
I've seen bilge switches that use a "paddle" that would work for this. Unfortunately, those switches are built with DC pumps in mind. This must work for an AC pump. (In case you're wondering, the brand and model of the pump will probably be Eheim 1260 (with a power consumption of 65W (120V/60Hz).
Is there any obvious flaw in my idea of using a float switch as a failsafe? Should I use more than one?
If one could be recommended, that would be great. Also, I might want to use one as a redundancy in the aquarium itself, in case it empties and the heater element (200 Watt) is left exposed. Thanks a bunch.
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