Difficult Flange Problem - Please Advise

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thunderjaw

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Hello,
I have a house that was built in 1962, and we're re-finishing the basement. The current cast iron toilet flange (shown in picture), is 4-3/4" at the opening, and then 3" down it reduces to 3-3/4". I purchased an Oatey Twist-N-Set replacement flange, but it doesn't quite reach down to the 3-3/4" part of the pipe (which is the correct size).... We are adding a new floor on top of the old asbestos tiles, which includes: 1/8" underlayment, 3/4" subfloor (OSB), and ~ 6mm vinyl plank flooring. So our new floor will be nearly an inch higher than the current floor, and obviously I need to raise up the flange to just about the finished floor height, but how can I do that? I was hoping to find a new flange with a 4-3/4" ODA, but I can't find that. And all the longer flanges (I've seen 7"), are made to fit and seal to PVC.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

- M
 

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Unfortunately, what you have is a deep caulk-type closet flange with the actual pipe too deep.
You can build up with a 'spacer kit' for the flange.
1687283590703.png
Typically comes as a three pack of plastic spacers. Use extra long brass closet bolts and nuts to hold tight to your existing flange. Use silicone caulk between each spacer +caulk to the metal flange.
https://www.flooranddecor.com/jones...qW3PJ0jeS3pNVgjoxbIaAseDEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.dsAlternatively you could try a different kit like https://www.amazon.com/43401-Set-Ri...3&sprefix=wc+flange+spacer+kit,aps,136&sr=8-6
 
Thanks for getting back to me... the issue isn't so mucht hat the flange height isn't high enough (that's part of it, buts that's an easy enough fix, as you suggested). the big issue, is that the pipe below is too deep to reach with a standard flange. And the "extra long" flanges are all made for PVC, and I don;t know how I'll get one to seal into it.
 
Are you saying that what looks like a lead-caulked joint has gone bad?
The place that seals is only at the flange, if the pipe to closet flange is good.
 
So, it doesn't have to seal once it's past the opening of the flange? (I ask because of products like Oatey Twist-n-Set, and push set type flanges)... They seal "inside the pipe", which is why I assumed that I would need to.
 
No, the pipe to flange is already sealed (oakum and lead from the looks of it).
 
Okay. So I'll leave the "inner pipe", loose inside of the existing waste pipe. I didn't realize I could do that.
 
"loose" inside won't cut it. If it was assembled properly,like i said, it would be leaded into place, not loose.
If it is loose, might as well break up the slab and do it right.
 
You could get a 4x3 flange a short length of 3'' pipe, glue them together, then slide the assembly down into the existing cast, and seal the flange to the floor, of course securing it with anchors. This would work, may not be textbook proper, but would work all the same.

wish I knew how to draw and put it on the screen.
 
Pipe Dreams said:
You could get a 4x3 flange a short length of 3'' pipe, glue them together, then slide the assembly down into the existing cast, and seal the flange to the floor, of course securing it with anchors. This would work, may not be textbook proper, but would work all the same.

wish I knew how to draw and put it on the screen.
Click to expand...
I think I understand what you mean... That's a good thought.
 
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