After 4 years of no issues, our washing machine has developed a new problem. We have a double drain outlet box in the wall, with the washer pipe in the left. When the washer goes to drain the water, the water will fill up and come out the right drain and spill onto the floor and wall after about 6 seconds. I assumed that there was a clog or blockage but drain cleaning and snaking found no issue. Then I discovered it only happens at the start of the washer drain cycle, if I stop the washer within the first 6 seconds of draining, pause for a few seconds, then let it keep draining there is no issue. What would show up only at the beginning of the draining but not be a problem for the rest of vast majority of the water draining? Any help, ideas, or theories would be appreciated.
Confusing Washer Outlet Issue
- Thread starter Taggert13
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I had this issue when my contractor installed 1 1/2" drain pipe, instead of the 2" pipe. It was not noticeable until I purchased my first front load washer. they have some serious drain pumps!
Did you repipe to 2”?
Yes I did.
The standard washing machine drain size is 2 inches, and the minimum requirement is 1 1/2 inches. Modern washers typically require a larger drain, and you may need a larger drain if it's connected to your kitchen sink.
The standard washing machine drain size is 2 inches, and the minimum requirement is 1 1/2 inches. Modern washers typically require a larger drain, and you may need a larger drain if it's connected to your kitchen sink.
Not to highjack this thread but I have a 1.5 washing machine drain line running down to the main stack, and I can repipe that to 2 inch, but the vent going up is 1.5 inch that joins up with the main vent line. Would 1.5 still be acceptable for the vent portion?
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Try clearing the drain line before you do anything.
Not sure if you are responding to me, I will probably make a new thread explaining my situation, I am not the original poster, so my scenario differs. Thanks!
Yes. The vent only is for air to avoid siphoning the trap, so there is no flow of water that would be restricted. actually a 1 1/4" vent is allowed by code.
Yeah, I apologize. I was unaware that you were different than the OP. MicEd69 is correct.
no apology necessary at all! I apprecite everyone’s time so much.
So… here is a photo showing the drain and vent lines. It used to have a sink and then the old style washer drained into the sink, then down the sink drain to the basement and stack to septic. Can I use this type of reducer to allow for use of the 1.5 vent and repipe the 2 inch drain to the stack? Or is there a better way?
Actually I guess I am gonna cut the vent pipe shorter to allow me to add a trap of some sort in the wall?
Anyone feel like drawing what I should do? It will essentially be a new front loader with no sink. There are 8 sinks in this house and I think I can do without one in the laundry room!
Anyone feel like drawing what I should do? It will essentially be a new front loader with no sink. There are 8 sinks in this house and I think I can do without one in the laundry room!
There are several ways to install this, but this picture is a good design to copy. This is in ABS but the same fittings and layout would be for PVC as well.
The 2"x1-1/2x2 sanitee could also be replaced with a regular 2" sanitee and a 2x1-1/2 bushing for the vent. The 30" maximum height for the standpipe can be 42" if you are governed by the IPC (International Plumbing Code). Your local jurisdiction probably has that listed on their website, or just call city hall and ask.
You might be tempted to use the existing hot and cold connections, but they need to be readily accessible with the washer in place. So, the washer outlet box makes for a neat and clean installation. Those existing water hammer arrestors can still be used where they are located, just pipe the lines after then to the washing machine outlet box. If that geometry causes any problems, there are outlet box valves that include arrestors on the valves inside the outlet box.
The 2"x1-1/2x2 sanitee could also be replaced with a regular 2" sanitee and a 2x1-1/2 bushing for the vent. The 30" maximum height for the standpipe can be 42" if you are governed by the IPC (International Plumbing Code). Your local jurisdiction probably has that listed on their website, or just call city hall and ask.
You might be tempted to use the existing hot and cold connections, but they need to be readily accessible with the washer in place. So, the washer outlet box makes for a neat and clean installation. Those existing water hammer arrestors can still be used where they are located, just pipe the lines after then to the washing machine outlet box. If that geometry causes any problems, there are outlet box valves that include arrestors on the valves inside the outlet box.
My Goodness.
Thank you so, so much.
You just saved me a ton of aggravation and effort wading through internet mumbo jumbo.
I truly appreciate this.
Jeff
Thank you so, so much.
You just saved me a ton of aggravation and effort wading through internet mumbo jumbo.
I truly appreciate this.
Jeff
I forgot to mention that the washer standpipe needs to be flood level rim of the washing machine (above the top of the washer). That's really not as big an issue for a front load machine, but for top loaders, discharging below the top level of the water line in the washer will result in problems, so they use the top of the washing machine as a guide.
And here is another sketch showing the measuring points. And again, the 30" riser can be 42" if you are under the IPC. And note the distance from the P-trap to the drain line has a 4" minimum distance. It also has a 5' maximum distance on this sketch, which can be 8' under the IPC, but I don't think you are going to mover the washing machine over that far. But the 4" minimum is a dimension to which you also need to adhere.
And here is another sketch showing the measuring points. And again, the 30" riser can be 42" if you are under the IPC. And note the distance from the P-trap to the drain line has a 4" minimum distance. It also has a 5' maximum distance on this sketch, which can be 8' under the IPC, but I don't think you are going to mover the washing machine over that far. But the 4" minimum is a dimension to which you also need to adhere.
