I am finishing my basement. I need a permanent solution. What is cracked is the elbow fitting which is under the concrete. Does your solution apply for the crack like in the picture?Is there a Mission style of clamp that will go over the O.D. of the ends for a temporary repair?
Whether the jagged edges will catch debris or not is unknown.
I can't see in the photo, but if there is pipe below the floor, before the next fitting, opening the floor for that won't be hard since you only need a small area to drop in a new coupling. Cut off the bad with an internal pipe saw so you don't need a big hole for a saw or cable saw.
For the hole, possibly rent a 5" or 6" core drill. It'll slide over the existing pipe. Maybe even a Socket Saver or RAMBIT will be helpful to you.
Paul
The second image is from back. The soccer ball hit it. I did not try any solvent I thought it would be a temporary solution.These two pictures don’t look like the same piece to me.
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Why did it break? Tension on the joint or did it get hit with something? Did you try PVC solvent and cement?
Mom always said "don't play ball in the house"The second image is from back. The soccer ball hit it. I did not try any solvent I thought it would be a temporary solution.
If you're going to all of the expense & work of planning & building the finished rooms, it would be wise to break the floor and replace as needed. The happy side, is that you don't have to do a pretty job of patching the floor because it will be under the finished floor. (And you can possibly even re-route to suit your plans better.)I am finishing my basement. I need a permanent solution.
I'm not a plumber....but I used to own a PVC millwork manufacturing business and I know a lot about adhesives used for PVC. Your suggestion of possibliy using Weld-On 810 is a good one. Weld-On 810 is not an epoxy. It is a type of adhesive called a methyl methacrylate. Methyl methacrylates are 2-part structural adhesives that are acrylics. These are absolutely excellent adhesives for use on PVC and they are structual. They are as strong as the PVC material itself and can be built up in the same way as you would build up putties and patching materials like Bondo, except methyl methacrylates are exponentially stronger and the bond to clean PVC is exceptionally strong. With a PVC waste line not being pressurized, using Weld-On 810 would work well, but perhaps a better adhesive to use because of the method of application.....a caulk gun.....would be PVC TrimWelder by Fuller.You could repair with this stuff and I have used it before in several situations but I wouldn’t use it in the situation you have.
Do I believe this product would work ? Yes I do. How long would it last ? I’m not sure but it wouldn’t last longer than a fitting that has not been repaired. I’m comfortable saying that.
This stuff is extremely strong.
https://weldon.com/products/810-a-b-kit/
As a test with left over product mixed up from a repair I did use it on, I took two 1.5” pvc sch 40 pipes and butted one into the side of another without contouring……I applied tension to hold the two pieces together with a large clamp. I filled the joint and built it up and let it dry.
Once dry I stood on it with all my weight, 200+ pounds and it held me.
I threw it in my garage and found it 2 years later, took it out and stood on it and it broke.
It’s pretty amazing stuff. I used it for a drywall screw hole in a 4” pvc pipe. The only way to replace the pipe would’ve been to remove some custom 12” crown molding and possible cut out some framing.
I drilled the hole out a tad larger than the rusted out screw to insure a clean surface. Then filled it with that epoxy. Waited 3 days then came back and roughed up the outside and put a second coat on to build it up. Worked great and it’s still working.
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