P trap question

Hello, I am installing the p trap in a roughed in basement shower drain and I am try to gain some clearance will adding a 90 degree piece affect the draining? Straight pipe to a 90 degree elbow turned side ways and then the p trap . Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Andy

Use drainage fittings, not pressure fittings. If you can use a 45 degree bend instead, that is better.

If I understand correctly, you are wanting to turn horizontal, not vertical. In general, horizontal is OK, vertical is not.

Yes I have turned the 90 degree elbow so the opening is horizontal and then hooked the p trap to it. Basically I am centering and moving the drain away from the back wall.

AndyH said:

Hello, I am installing the p trap in a roughed in basement shower drain and I am try to gain some clearance will adding a 90 degree piece affect the draining? Straight pipe ( vertical or horizontal to a 90 degree elbow turned side ways and then the p trap . Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Andy

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is the straight pipe vertical and you are changing it to horizontal with a 90 into the p-trap. The outlet of the p-trap will have another 90 to the horizontal trap arm.

This is what I picture. It will be very hard to clean.

can you take a picture. maybe put some fittings together and take a picture of them

Maybe the P-trap can be put sideways instead of straight front to back? I'm trying to visualize this..

I was trying to visualized what he OP was trying to do. You can swing the p-trap 360.

Still trying to figure out what he means by turning the 90 horizontal and connecting the trap.

Why not just move the trap and drop the drain into it like it is meant to be connected. swing the trap to whatever angle you need to reconnect to trap arm
Or maybe like this

^ just kidding.

The fact that I sometimes microwave my ice cream makes more sense than this. Why not just out the fixture outlet pipe right into the trap inlet like it's supposed to?

Matt30 said:

The fact that I sometimes microwave my ice cream makes more sense than this. Why not just out the fixture outlet pipe right into the trap inlet like it's supposed to?

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Mr_David said:

Why not just move the trap and drop the drain into it like it is meant to be connected. swing the trap to whatever angle you need to reconnect to trap arm

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Like I said.

Yea, like Mr David said!

See attached pictures. I am trying to move the location of the drain away from the back wall.

Would a 90 sweep be better?

This will be a 32x48 shower and where the drain sits now it will be centered in the width and about 10 inches from the back wal.

use a 45 and swing the p-trap to 5 o'clock or maybe even to 2 O'clock. if you use a 1/16th bend.
I see you have an issue with a French drain there.

you will have issue down the road when you need to clean it with a snake.

I both new to plumbing and struggling to comprehend what is needing to be done, but in Washington state I believe that all horizontal 90s have to be long turn 90s per code. That would bring out a little farther from the both walls. If the back wall has the tape against it then replacing the 90 with a 45 should pull pull the drain farther off the wall.

Craft_and_Tradition said:

I both new to plumbing and struggling to comprehend what is needing to be done, but in Washington state I believe that all horizontal 90s have to be long turn 90s per code. That would bring out a little farther from the both walls. If the back wall has the tape against it then replacing the 90 with a 45 should pull pull the drain farther off the wall.

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welcome to e site and to plumbing

even thou 90's are allowed by code, forget about them, using a 90 horizontal to horizontial is just plane bad plumbing. period.

try to make it a habit to only use 90's when turning up

use 45's when ever installing a sewer, 22.5 are even bettter

the code on a 90 is

horizontal to vertical a 90 is allowed
which is,,a 2nd floor sewer line draining down to the 1st floor

vertical to horizontial must be a long sweep

when turning up in a wall

Looking at the picture, I'm not quite sure why the trap is turned to the side instead of going straight back? is it because the trap arm would be too short? I believe the rule is that the trap arm has to be at least 2 pipe diameters. Would it meet that requirement if it just went straight back and connected to the vent? If so, then you could turn the trap facing straight back, have a short straight trap arm, and connect to the vent / drain with a sanitary tee. I'm assuming that the vent pipe goes down further underneath?

I suck with visualizing dimensions, so I don't know if you can get 2 pipe diameters between the end of the trap and the vent pipe. To my eye, it looks like you can get the 2 pipe diameters, but I could be wrong.

Zanne said:

Looking at the picture, I'm not quite sure why the trap is turned to the side instead of going straight back?

The Santee is existing and already at a set angle, so he has to accommodate what he has.

Yeah, he can blow out more concrete.
Dig down to find the santee sitting on top of a combo, fitting to fitting.
Move the wall studs so he can work on the vent above the floor.
( Why R the 2 studs so close to the vent like bread on a sandwich? )


is it because the trap arm would be too short? I believe the rule is that the trap arm has to be at least 2 pipe diameters. Would it meet that requirement if it just went straight back and connected to the vent? If so, then you could turn the trap facing straight back, have a short straight trap arm, and connect to the vent / drain with a sanitary tee. I'm assuming that the vent pipe goes down further underneath?

I suck with visualizing dimensions, so I don't know if you can get 2 pipe diameters between the end of the trap and the vent pipe. To my eye, it looks like you can get the 2 pipe diameters, but I could be wrong.

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That make more sense ?

I'm guessing you took out a bath Tub and are converting to a shower. The shower requires a 2" drain and trap.



Want to do it right?
Get a jack hammer.
Open up the floor.
IF the drain after the santee is 2" , then replace the santee so you have a 2" trap arm.

Then put the shower drain in the middle of the shower.

Mr_David said:

I'm guessing you took out a bath Tub and are converting to a shower. The shower requires a 2" drain and trap.



Want to do it right?
Get a jack hammer.
Open up the floor.
IF the drain after the santee is 2" , then replace the santee so you have a 2" trap arm.

Then put the shower drain in the middle of the shower.

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thats not exactly true David. by code, IF structurally unable.

AND YOU DO NOT MIND standing in 4'' of water,,,cause it dont drain fast enough

you are permitted to use a 1 1/2 trap


note..long showers are forbidden with a 1 1/2 trap.

pan overflows,,

so, if a slow drain, overflowing pan, standing in funk water
does not bother you
by all means, use a 1 1/2 trap. its your house, do as you wish