Washer machine wall valves leaking. Help!

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KyleH

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Hey guys happy new year! So I decided to spend the weekend to renovate my laundry room, which turned out to be a bigger job than originally anticipated. I regretfully disconnected the washer machine hoses from the outlet box to paint the box and when reconnecting, both valves started leaking from the valve stems (they are old gate valves). The hot water actually started spraying :eek:! Turned the water back off and ran to my computer and read that the bonnet nut needed to be repacked if its leaking from the stem, which it is. So i went out to Lowes and picked up some graphite valve packing (3/32 x 24) and tried to repack the valves. My first attempt on the hot side failed bc i guess i didn't put enough on -- I put 2 wraps counterclockwise (the valves are upside down). Second attempt i put 3 wraps on and it seemed to hold until i ran the washer machine. I had thought i purged the pipes before turning the water back on, but after a few short bursts, i walked back into the room and the valve was spraying again on the hot side. Tried to tighten the nut a couple 1/4 turns -- didn't work. It looked like the packing oozed out from the bottom of the nut from the water being too hot or the air pressure blew it out. I'm not sure if i did this correctly or not, but is the packing supposed to come out from the bottom once you tighten the bonnet nut? Are you supposed to scrape the extra off? Its also unclear how tight to tighten the bonnet (people say different things) and also unclear which direction to wrap the packing --I wrapped it in the direction you would tighten the nut and then finger tightened and turned it a 1/4 turn with wrench. The cold side is holding for now, but do you guys have advice on the correct procedure or any tricks to do this? I don't know what i'm doing wrong. The valve stem on the hot side also wiggles a little bit unlike the cold side. Thanks
 
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So the valve looks like it comes apart. Should i attempt to separate the two pieces before cutting into the wall? Not really sure where to start.
 
You got it. The hot side is currently shut off bc i haven't had a chance to reattempt to repack the valve, plus you guys are suggesting to replace it now.

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frodo said:
now a days you cant tell, what looks like a man is a woman
a woman is a man
but the woman stands to pee and the man sits. you are to ignore that
because if you do not, you are a racist,homophobe, meany poo poo head
Click to expand...

Not this woman. I know you can't tell behind a keyboard!
 
KyleH said:
So the valve looks like it comes apart. Should i attempt to separate the two pieces before cutting into the wall? Not really sure where to start.
Click to expand...

What kind of waterpipe is your house done with? Pex? Copper? Cpvc?
 
Shut the water off. If you have an electric water heater shut the breaker off to be on safe side. Remove that flanged cover around your washer box there (the thing that holds the valves). You might have to cut a bit of drywall and patch. Cut those valves out and replace them. If you have limited soldering (not that that is a bad thing) I suggest compression ones even though I don't recommend them in a concealed area.
 
I hate those cheap a$$ boxed valves that you have to cut open the wall to replace.

Usually the valves are held onto the box with a plastic nut on the back side.
When you remove it, there is nothing else inside the wall to hold and secure the pipes so the new valves are sticking through the box and are all loose and wobbly. So then you have to secure the pipes in the wall.

The other thing is to be careful not to melt the box when you solder on new pipe extensions. That is usually a problem when the valve come in from the bottom. A bit easier in this case because valves are on top.

They do make a box valve with the threaded shank that has a female threaded end that the a male threaded valve screws into. Those are nice because you don't have to open the wall to change them out next time

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Mr_David said:
I hate those cheap a$$ boxed valves that you have to cut open the wall to replace.

Usually the valves are held onto the box with a plastic nut on the back side.
When you remove it, there is nothing else inside the wall to hold and secure the pipes so the new valves are sticking through the box and are all loose and wobbly. So then you have to secure the pipes in the wall.
Click to expand...

Finally getting around to doing this. Sorry for the late reply. Here is what the inside of the wall looks like. Is the valve soldered to the pipe here? Its hard to tell if the threads are a part of the pipe or the valve.

Edit: This video seems to confirm that the valve itself is threaded. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3Aipx_-Jes"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3Aipx_-Jes[/ame]

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KyleH said:
Finally getting around to doing this. Sorry for the late reply. Here is what the inside of the wall looks like. Is the valve soldered to the pipe here? Its hard to tell if the threads are a part of the pipe or the valve.

Edit: This video seems to confirm that the valve itself is threaded. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3Aipx_-Jes
Click to expand...

You will have to cut and solder new ones in.
 
I finished the project, finally! I will post pictures of the finished result in a few days. Many thanks to all of you for your help!
 
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