Who makes high quality booster pumps?

[plasmech]

I'm thinking about putting a booster pump on the supply line of my dedicated hose bib Manabloc.

Who makes a good, high quality pump?

Being that this is for hose bibs only, an accumulator tank is not necessary.

FWIW, this is a city water application.

Thanks for any advice.

 

[Valveman]

Nobody makes high quality anything these days. All pumps are made to fail in as short of a time as they can get away with. However, about the only thing that destroys pumps is cycling on and off. So, if you use a Cycle Stop Valve to control the pump, even cheap built pumps will last much longer.

I don't understand why you would want more pressure on just the garden hose line? If the garden hose pressure is low so is the pressure in the house. You should just boot everything before the Manabloc, then you would also have good pressure in the showers.

Without a pressure tank the pump will need to me manually turned on and off. With a pressure tank/pressure switch the pump will come on automatically when the pressure gets low. You don't need a very large pressure tank if the pump is controlled with a CSV. A little 4.5 gallon size tank is all that is needed. Using one of our PK1A kits with the 4.5 gallon tank will give strong constant pressure to everything, showers and garden hose alike. The shower pressure will be so much stronger you will no longer even need soap in the shower. Lol!

Connect the PK1A kit to a pump like a Goulds J07S and you will have a system that could last 30-40 years, even though all pumps are made as cheaply as possible these days.

 

[plasmech]

Nobody makes high quality anything these days. All pumps are made to fail in as short of a time as they can get away with. However, about the only thing that destroys pumps is cycling on and off. So, if you use a Cycle Stop Valve to control the pump, even cheap built pumps will last much longer.

I don't understand why you would want more pressure on just the garden hose line? If the garden hose pressure is low so is the pressure in the house. You should just boot everything before the Manabloc, then you would also have good pressure in the showers.

Without a pressure tank the pump will need to me manually turned on and off. With a pressure tank/pressure switch the pump will come on automatically when the pressure gets low. You don't need a very large pressure tank if the pump is controlled with a CSV. A little 4.5 gallon size tank is all that is needed. Using one of our PK1A kits with the 4.5 gallon tank will give strong constant pressure to everything, showers and garden hose alike. The shower pressure will be so much stronger you will no longer even need soap in the shower. Lol!

Connect the PK1A kit to a pump like a Goulds J07S and you will have a system that could last 30-40 years, even though all pumps are made as cheaply as possible these days.

I'd like to run the house at 50 PSI and the hose bibs (4 of them) at 75 PSI, possibly higher.

I wouldn't mind putting the house on a pump as my main pressure is only 75 PSI and drops 5 psi with every fixture I turn on...but is there a way to run 2 pressures out of one pump?

Thanks for the reply, by the way. Very informative.

 

[Valveman]

If your main pressure is 75 PSI, why do the hose bibs not already have 75 PSI? Everything should start out at 75 PSI. I understand the pressure drops 5 PSI for every extra tap turned on, but does the main pressure drop below 75 PSI or is is just low pressure at the house?

 

[plasmech]

If your main pressure is 75 PSI, why do the hose bibs not already have 75 PSI? Everything should start out at 75 PSI. I understand the pressure drops 5 PSI for every extra tap turned on, but does the main pressure drop below 75 PSI or is is just low pressure at the house?

My PRV is set to 50 PSI.

I don't want to run the entire house at 75 PSI.

 

[plasmech]

Although I am considering removing the PRV and replacing it with a piece of 3/4" pipe.

I'm curious if my lateral can deliver, though. I feel that it's either undersized or there's a restriction in it.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Remove the PRV and run everything at 75psi.

Simple is better.

 

[plasmech]

Remove the PRV and run everything at 75psi.

Simple is better.

Yea. I actually ordered the parts this morning (a 3/4" union and 3/4" adapter) to replace it with a straight pipe.

 

[Valveman]

Just tighten the adjustment bolt on the prv like 3 turns to the right. Will be the same as removing it.

 

[plasmech]

Just tighten the adjustment bolt on the prv like 3 turns to the right. Will be the same as removing it.

The internal flow path of 25AUB is very restrictive. It's a horrible design, IMO.

 

[Valveman]

The internal flow path of 25AUB is very restrictive. It's a horrible design, IMO.

I agree. But tightening the bolt will work until the flow is high enough the small internal path causes restriction. You can also remove the closing disc in the prv and put it back together without it.

 

[plasmech]

Somewhat related: is it possible to remove the guts from a Watts LF7RU2-2 dual check valve and have it act as a pass-thru?