which fitting in difficult-to-solder situation ?

[RustyShackleford]

I need to interface with a copper plumbing system, to add a washing machine bib. I'm decent at soldering (sweating) but I fear because the pipes I need to access are in the basement, with all the plumbing of two floors of house above them, that soldering will be very difficult due to being unable to get rid of all the water. Maybe I'm wrong, but assuming I'm not ...

Which of these three classes of tool-less fittings would you recommend ? FWIW, the house is on a municipal water system; they state that they use Chlorine, Lime, Polymer, and Orthophosphate, but NOT chloramine.

1. Sharkbite, or Sharkbite Max, such as: https://www.supplyhouse.com/SharkBite-UR248-1-2-x-1-2-SharkBite-Max-90-Degree-Elbow-Lead-Free

2. John Guest CTS ProLock, such as: https://www.supplyhouse.com/John-Guest-PSEI0320E-1-2-CTS-ProLock-Elbow

3. John Guest CTS SpeedFit, such as: https://www.supplyhouse.com/John-Guest-PEI0320-1-2-CTS-JG-Twist-Lock-Speedfit-Union-90-Degree-Elbow

I like the lower price of the plastic ones, and they should be better at resisting degradation from the treatment chemicals, but of course durability may be a concern.

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d solder but if I had to pick between the listed options I suppose I’d go with sharkbite or the sharkbite max, either one.

 

[Twowaxhack]

To get all your water out of the system you turn the main off and open all your faucets to drain as much as you can.

Turn water heater to pilot, and turn cold water off to water heater.

Cut your pipes and use a shop vac with a hose to suck the water out of the cut pipes. You can also use air to blow the lines out.

 

[RustyShackleford]

I’d solder but if I had to pick between the listed options I suppose I’d go with sharkbite or the sharkbite max, either one.

Any tricks for dealing with water (esp. water from above) when soldering ? Seems like I've heard of jamming a chunk of bread up in there; it absorbs the water, but soon disintegrates and washes out.

 

[Twowaxhack]

Any tricks for dealing with water (esp. water from above) when soldering ? Seems like I've heard of jamming a chunk of bread up in there; it absorbs the water, but soon disintegrates and washes out.

Read post #3 and just take your time. Blow them out good or suck them out. I like using shop vac.

There’s only but so much water in the system.

 

[breplum]

The old trick way to deal with endless water bother was to use a Jet Sweat, thereby plugging the water upstream, then soldering a full port lever handle ball valve so there is no bother from water.
I haven't used Jet Sweat since we use ProPress nearly exclusively and water does not affect assembly, with big plus of no flux either.

 

[RustyShackleford]

The old trick way to deal with endless water bother was to use a Jet Sweat, thereby plugging the water upstream...

Cool, didn't know those existed. Can't really justify the expense for one-off task as a non-professional though.

 

[RustyShackleford]

Another option is these things I picked up awhile back: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HCNL64P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Geofd]

They also make compression ball valves or compression couplings that would work could be pricey, I've never used shark bite, thou

 

[RustyShackleford]

They also make compression ball valves or compression couplings ...

Yeah, that's what I linked in post #8. I have them on-hand. I suppose they're more secure than the types I listed in OP. They can be tough to get not to leak though, right ?

 

[Geofd]

No, I put a dab of pipe joint sealant on the ferrel and the threads ad I've never had a problem,you don't have to go to PEX just use compression by compression,if your staying with copper

 

[RickFlorida]

Yeah the Jet-sweat kits are so expensive that you mind as well buy a Pro-press system. I think it's like 150 dollars for each Jet sweat kit and you need two kits to cover all pipe sizes. So what I do...(now I'm not a professional plumber, I just help out with my house, brothers houses, parents, and uncle)... but anyways I just do old school soldering of copper pipe which means you have to get all the water turned off and get ALL of the water to stop dripping. Sometimes you need to empty a toilet tank if it's close to the pipe system you are trying to solder. I found that when I turn off the main water but I still get drips... it's almost always because water is dripping down from a toilet tank so you just have to disconnect those or empty the toilet tanks too. But if I was a professional plumber, I now understand the reason for buying a Pro-Press and not soldering anymore. It's faster because of dripping and you have no fear of starting a fire inside a wall.

 

[Twowaxhack]

You can get 1/2”-1”” jet swets for $125.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Jet-Swe...MIxL_3p9PLgQMVKA6HAx2DwgAbEAQYAyABEgK_2_D_BwE
Plus solder fittings are a lot cheaper than propress. Approximately 1/3 of the cost of press fittings.

Press fittings can’t be reused

Can’t press some older pipe because it’s too thin

Can’t press some freeze damaged pipe because the outside diameter changes

Propress joint is inferior to a solder joint.

Propress tools are expensive and the different accessories are as well. You can easily invest 2k+ on the tool and another 2-3k on accessories.

 

[Twowaxhack]

To me, where propress shines is when you can’t have the water off long or can’t turn the water off at all and must work live. No flame permitted and large pipes must be connected.

It also is very flexible, you can press a lot of different type pipes like copper, steel and stainless steel and probably others. You can press copper gas lines.

It’s easy and fast and takes almost zero skill to complete jobs with a press tool.