Water heater leak with a twist

[CaliFred]

Here is the problem we have.

1. Our water heater started leaking into backyard late last year. It was just a few drops and occasional at first but it got worse. By May it was too much and I decided that I need to replace the Pressure Relief Valve. I did that but it did not solve the problem.

2. After about a month I decided it's time to replace the whole unit since the one we had was more than 15 years old. So in early June we got a new GE 12 year warranty 65 gallon water heater and have it installed. But the problem did not go away.

3. Here is the twist: As soon as I run another faucet in the house the leak stops completely. But immediately after I turn off the water the leak starts again. I was told maybe my water pressure is too high but I checked it and it is 50psi; even when had it lowered it did not fix the leak.

Any ideas?!?! Our May gas bill was 4 times last year as the water heater keeps running when you have a leak like this. Right now we turn off the water valve going into the heater when we don't need to use it and turn it on only when we need to shower and wash dishes, etc...

Thanks in advance for any help.

BTW, The house was built in 1964 and has copper plumbing.

 

[havasu]

I'd call the water department and verify that the incoming water pressure is within normal limits. None the less, an expansion tank would probably solve your problem.

 

[phishfood]

Explain more what you mean when you say "leaking into the backyard". Is there a discharge pipe there that is trickling? Is there water bubbling up out of the ground?

 

[CaliFred]

Yes I am thinking about calling the water department. It maybe their problem.
The expansion tank maybe a fix but I am afraid it will get filled up very quickly and be useless.

Yes the discharge pipe from the water heater into the back yard started trickling at first but it's more than a trickle now and more like a steady stream but only when no other faucet is running.

 

[Caduceus]

The T&P valve releases on both the old and new tanks. So let's look at both temperature and pressure. If you have high pressure, the installation of a regulator usually is the property owner's responsibility. You say that you checked the pressure and it was at 50 psi. What did you use to check it and where? Next, how high do you have your thermostat set on the water heater? With a meat thermometer you can check the actual temp. at a sink.
Also, you don't say if your tank is electric or gas. The thermal expansion of a gas fired tank is more aggressive than an electric and, if properly installed, a thermal expansion tank shouldn't "fill up very quickly and be useless".
So what we need is an accurate pressure reading and temperature reading. Let us know what you find.

 

[CaliFred]

I used a Rain Bird P2A Water Pressure Gauge to check the pressure. I used the faucet at the main in front of the house to check it. I actually played around with the regulator on the main and it is doing it's job as I was able to reduce the water pressure but it did not make any difference.

The water heater is a gas one. I am using the level A for temperature on this latest GE water heater from Home Depot. There are also B & C levels. A is the lowest but I can take it lower, I guess, by turning the knob closer to the "vacation" setting. I am at work now but will check the water temp later and post.

BTW, what's should be the typical temp if you have the kitchen faucet turned all the way to the hot side?

 

[havasu]

I know the temperature out of the faucet varies because of children and elderly, but I have found 120* to be the optimum temperature for me. I hope some of the experts can chime in on this temperature for me as well.

 

[CaliFred]

I was getting around 115 in the kitchen faucet at the hottest level.

I am going to call LADWP and ask them to come over and take a look.

 

[Caduceus]

Don't check the temperature at a single handle faucet. Try a faucet with separate hot and cold to be accurate. I would recommend the tank temp to be a minimum of 120 deg. F and no more than 135 deg. F. If you have children in the house or elderly, you should have tempering valves or scald guards at the tub and showers to keep the mixed max. temp below 120 deg. and more than 110 deg. F.
As you said, Cali. It might be time to call somebody to see what is going on. There may be a detail that can only be found on site by a pro. Let us know the outcome as everybody can benefit from the thread.

 

[CaliFred]

OK folks thanks for all the replies. I will update once I get this issue resolved.

 

[johnjh2o]

i agree with havasu you need a expansion tank. When the water is heated it expands and the pressure increases beyond the limit of the T&P valve. The valve is doing it's job relieving the additional pressure in the tank.

John