Water heater drain valve drip

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talan1688

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Hello. My home's Rheem water heater is dripping from the drain valve. It is strange as it seems to sometimes spit out some water and then stop and then occurs again. I have a little plastic bucket to collect the water, probably about 3 cups of water in a 24 hour period. I was doing some research and understand that these plastic drain valve should be replaced with a brass one (a little concerned to do it myself as I read that the plastic can break and be stuck there.. also trying to save money to get plumber.)

In addition, I read that maybe a hose cap can be screwed on. But is this safe?

Besides these options, can I just permanently connect a hose to the drain valve to let the water exit to the ground? Any other thoughts?

Thank you.
 
The cap is the easiest fix.

Most likely the valve needs a new washer, has some sediment jammed between the washer and the seat, or both. Assuming of course that it is a gate valve of some sort rather than a ball valve. Next time the tank is empty, for instance after flushing it to get out the sediment, unscrew the plastic cap part around the handle or adjuster screw, and see what's what.

Unfortunately those plastic valves make it nearly impossible to flush a tank properly, as they often jam up with sediment to the point that there is no flow at all. It might be possible to break one off, but the nylon body is pretty tough and the one I took out didn't put up a fight when it was removed. You may find when you have drained the tank, and then unscrewed this valve, and look back in, that you are looking at a wall of sediment. If the tank drains really slowly that can be because it is doing so through a bed of sediment, as opposed to washing it out. Installing a full port ball valve in its place really is a significant upgrade in functionality.

How to drain the tank if it won't drain? On an electric WH unplug it, then remove the lowest heating element, then use a shop vac to remove the water and the sediment (avoiding the drip tube and temperature probe). For a gas WH turn it off, unscrew the pressure release valve on the top, and use a piece of PEX somehow mated to the hose of a shop vac to get the water out, again avoiding the same parts. Very difficult to remove the sediment that way on a gas HW, and impossible to reach it all because the flue up the middle is in the way.
 
BlueSkyHigh said:
How old is the unit? If it’s near the end of its lifecycle then cap it per what Twowhacks says.
Click to expand...
It is about 6 1/2 years old. Bought the 9 year warranty model. Hoping can last a few more years before replacing. Thank you.
 
Last edited:
pasadena_commut said:
The cap is the easiest fix.

Most likely the valve needs a new washer, has some sediment jammed between the washer and the seat, or both. Assuming of course that it is a gate valve of some sort rather than a ball valve. Next time the tank is empty, for instance after flushing it to get out the sediment, unscrew the plastic cap part around the handle or adjuster screw, and see what's what.

Unfortunately those plastic valves make it nearly impossible to flush a tank properly, as they often jam up with sediment to the point that there is no flow at all. It might be possible to break one off, but the nylon body is pretty tough and the one I took out didn't put up a fight when it was removed. You may find when you have drained the tank, and then unscrewed this valve, and look back in, that you are looking at a wall of sediment. If the tank drains really slowly that can be because it is doing so through a bed of sediment, as opposed to washing it out. Installing a full port ball valve in its place really is a significant upgrade in functionality.

How to drain the tank if it won't drain? On an electric WH unplug it, then remove the lowest heating element, then use a shop vac to remove the water and the sediment (avoiding the drip tube and temperature probe). For a gas WH turn it off, unscrew the pressure release valve on the top, and use a piece of PEX somehow mated to the hose of a shop vac to get the water out, again avoiding the same parts. Very difficult to remove the sediment that way on a gas HW, and impossible to reach it all because the flue up the middle is in the way.
Click to expand...
It just has the original stock gate valve. If I open the drain valve water seems to flow out smoothly. Sometimes I hear the water from the drain valve making noises. If I open and close the drain valve certain times, the water noise is gone. You probably correct about the sediment. I was hoping opening the drain valve to let some water out would flush out some sediment as well. For now, it seems to drip more than yesterday.. Probably end up getting the hose cap or if needed, get plumber to replace with new drain valve. Thank you.
 
talan1688 said:
Thank you for such a quick response. That was considered, but is it safe to plug up that area? Will there be a pressure issue?
Click to expand...
It’s supposed to be plugged, it’s a drain valve. The drain valve doesn’t produce pressure and it’s not a safety device.

I’d cap it.
 
Twowaxhack said:
It’s supposed to be plugged, it’s a drain valve. The drain valve doesn’t produce pressure and it’s not a safety device.

I’d cap it.
Click to expand...
Twowax is right. Just cap it. Rheem is now sending out tanks with brass valves (even promoting that on the box label). The plastic valves have been problematic for quite some time.
 
Steve_K2 said:
I've got one of those water alarms in the pan, but it won't be needed after installing one of these caps.
Click to expand...
Wrong. If the tank starts leaking (rusted through, failed weld, leak from one of the fittings or pipes) the alarm will tell you. Better to find out at the drip stage than the "pouring out all over the floor" stage.

6.5 years old. Has the anode been changed? If not, it is time. The anode is the only thing that protects the tank from rusting out. Keep changing the anode and cleaning out the sediment and the tank will last a very long time. If I remember right some of the WH models with longer warranty periods have a 2nd anode on the hot water outlet nipple. Changing the typical anode is not hard (but does require an impact wrench). I have never changed one on the outlet nipple, but imagine that is more difficult, since there is no nice big solid hex bolt head to work with.
 
pasadena_commut said:
If the tank starts leaking (rusted through, failed weld, leak from one of the fittings or pipes) the alarm will tell you. Better to find out at the drip stage than the "pouring out all over the floor" stage.
Click to expand...
Yeah, you're right, thanks.

My water heater is only two or three years old so no worries about the anode rod for a few more years.

I did worry about it when installing the heater. Tried to loosen the anode rod while my 250-pound neighbor straddled it. Two impact wrenches (one by a plumber) couldn't loosen the anode rod. Finally got it loose with a 21" 1/2" drive bar and a 4-foot length of pipe.

Once loose, I covered the threads in nylon (?) tape and then covered the tape with plumber's putty (?) (I'm not a plumber, though the father of one, so don't know the right names.) I expect the anode rod will be easy to get out in a few years.
 
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