Washer Box Overflow

[Erebus]

Hello all,

I am trying to diagnose an overflow out of the washing machine box. I snaked the line but had difficulty getting past the last bend (I put a red box around it in the picture), but up to that point the snake was clean. I am going to get a different snake that I can attach to my drill, rather than the one I spin in my hands like bike pedals and try that out.

I attached a video of the washer box during the overflow while the washer drains... and I've timed most of it at about 20 seconds after the pump starts each time.

Is there any other advice on what I should try or other possible issues?

Thanks!

 

[Geofd]

Not sure what else is connected or vented from that piping, it's not correct best way to fix that is cut above the 90° and cap it and remove that tee and make it a 90°,if you can access that piping I would cut out that coupling and install a (dandy clean out) it looks like a tee with a threaded plug in it,snake it from the new cleanout

 

[Erebus]

I appreciate it! I may do just that. This was installed by a plumber when we first moved in (about 10 years ago) and I wasn't sure what it was all for after I opened up the wall. A cleanout will definitely be a must I think. It's been expensive having the lines inspected and cleaned out by the local plumbing contractors.

Trying a different snake didn't quite work out. I can't get it past that last bend. I'm almost certain that the clog is right past that last elbow too. I was able to snake into the sewer main cleanout and didn't really find anything, but I wasn't too far from the toilet that is on the other side of this wall.

We have cast iron main lines, which is where this laundry line dumps into. The only logical thing is that a clog is forming where the laundry pvc terminates into that cast iron. I haven't had any other symptoms of a clog with any of the sinks or toilets just yet.

 

[TomFOhio]

Cut the pipe back enough that you can glue in a coupling. then run your snake through it while the line is open there.

 

[Erebus]

I appreciate it Tom and Geof. I have a pretty good gameplan now. I'll cap off next to the 2nd vent line at the 90º on top, add a cleanout about 2-3" above the other connection, and remove everything inbetween. I tried some Green Gobbler overnight and had successful drainage today. I know I still have to snake it and both of you have given me some great guidance on how to do that. Thanks again!

 

[Geofd]

What you have blacked out IS the vent, cap the pipe above the 90° on the stand pipe, replace the ty with a 90° that will compete your vent, the ty on the stand pipe should be cut out so all you have is a straight peice of pipe to the trap

 

[Erebus]

I think I misunderstood then. I tried to redraw it... Make the standpipe a solid pipe to the trap, leave the vent but remove the tee and convert it to a 90º into the vent, and then convert the coupling between the outlets into a cleanout... Would this design work? The pipes are immobile so I have been hesitant to try cutting in the first place, which won't matter if I redo the standpipe. Thanks again!

Quick update, I was able to try the 3/8th snake and get it through that elbow this time. I pushed it about 5 feet beyond the elbow and not a drop of any lint, hair, or any kind of debris on it. I plan on looking at the vent on the roof as well and definitely will sort out the plumbing to prevent further issues.

 

[Geofd]

Yes you have that correct add a clean out, straight pipe from washer box to trap, remove the tee and add a 90°

 

[frontporch]

Just wanted to add something I believe I learned on this site is that if the green line is a wet vent you want to use 45s to stay in code Might also save some hassle if the 45 result in no additional couplers needed. Would maybe have to chisel out a little of the 2x4 for the diagonal pipe but would be my solution

 

[Erebus]

Thanks for the confirmation @Geofd ! I started getting confused there but now it all makes sense. I may consider that @frontporch . I'll call and confirm with codes enforcement as to what they want.

I put a hose into the roof vent and flushed it out for a few minutes and snaked it about 24ft down into the sewer main(1 story house). A family member saw a few "chunks" of something flow by while flushing and it was quite murky for 5 or so minutes before it ran clear, but that's all the info I got. She said that there were suds (before flushing the vent) when she ran the washer earlier, but no overflow this time.

So now I can say the main vent is likely clear (I don't know where the washer vent ties into the main vent) and at least the drain line is clear down to the sewer main. If I continue to have more troubles, it may be the old lines. Flow was definitely much stronger going through the sewer cleanout after using the Green Gobbler and getting the snake all the way through.

Again, I appreciate it everyone!

 

[MicEd69]

Just wanted to add something I believe I learned on this site is that if the green line is a wet vent you want to use 45s to stay in code View attachment 39807 Might also save some hassle if the 45 result in no additional couplers needed. Would maybe have to chisel out a little of the 2x4 for the diagonal pipe but would be my solution

Actually, you have that backwards. If it is a wet vent, you can have the vent horizontal at that point. The drainage from whatever is making that line "wet" will wash out anything that collects in the vent. However, a dry vent needs to be horizontal, or no more than 45 degrees off horizontal until it reaches 6" above the flood rim of the fixture being vented, your washing machine in this case.

From your initial post, I was under the impression that the vent line is indeed a dry vent. If so, the 45s you show will be needed. But if that line serves as a drain from another sink, then you can use 90s to connect that line to the wet vent line.

 

[frontporch]

Lol. I guess I mistakenly have given some good advice???

If the laundry is on the first floor of a one story house and vent is clearly dry then use 45s… and hopefully an easier retrofit

 

[Twowaxhack]

Would use 45’s and change the 2x2x1.5” San tee on its back to a 2x2x1.5” combination.

Depending on the location I may add a cleanout or two.

 

[Erebus]

I've learned so many new things and appreciate everyones' input! I came to ask about advice on a leaking washer box and will end up fixing something that has been wrong all this time in the process. I've honestly never worked with replacing plumbing... so this will be a good experience (and fortunately PVC is cheap). The 2 45º make total sense too. Incase it floods again, there won't be a good chance for anything to just sit in the elbow.

 

[frontporch]

However, a dry vent needs to be horizontal, or no more than 45 degrees off horizontal until it reaches 6" above the flood rim

Just a quick correction. I think you typed horizontal but we’re thinking vertical

 

[MicEd69]

Just a quick correction. I think you typed horizontal but we’re thinking vertical

Oops, typing too fast. You are correct, I meant to say vertical when talking about a dry vent.

 

[MicEd69]

Sanitary tees are only prohibited on their back when the vertical portion is used for drainage piping. The prohibition is in IPC Ch. 7 - Sanitary Drainage. If you lay the sanitary tee on its back with wastes coming into the pipe from above, it will cause an upstream splash of waste hitting the horizontal pipe bottom and can cause clogging in the pipeline. A sanitary tee does not direct flow properly if flows is coming down the vertical. But if it is there only to vent the horizontal pipe, there is no functional or operational issue with using a sanitary tee on its back for a dry vent.

However, some inspectors may have an issue with a sanitary tee on its back as they interpret that as the fitting is handling wastes, although not in the vertical portion of the sanitary tee which is the only reason it is not allowed in sanitary drainage.

So, if this is going to be inspected, you may want to contact the inspector to verify how the Authority Having Jurisdiction interprets the code. If they agree that a sanitary tee is acceptable for use as a vent in this pipe, or if this rework it not being inspected, I would minimize your rework and not worry about cutting out the sanitary tee as a combo fitting will not improve or enhance the venting of your washing machine drainpipe.

 

[Twowaxhack]

San tees on their back can cause problems if a drain cable or camera needs to be ran through the system.

San tees on their backs are not allowed below 6” above the flood level rim where I work unless specifically approved as an exception. I agree with that as it’s good plumbing.