Under-slab sewer leak

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Ha! I didn't catch the "Another Plumber" reference when I wrote that. So, dare I ask how much you'd charge for a service call from San Diego to Memphis?!?!

Seriously, there was another detail I failed to mention... When he ran the camera through the tub overflow, the pipe was very loose. You could move it from side-to-side and forward/backward. The plumbers said they probably never came back and filled "the box" with concrete after the slab was poured. Apparently that's pretty common.

The drain-end of the tub backs up to an interior wall (toilet area) so it would be pretty easy for me to open up the sheetrock and have a look from the back-side. I suppose I could do that and repeat my static pressure test while it's open to see if I can see any water escaping.

Do you think it's worthwhile for me to do that, or just wait and put my trust in "another plumber"?

Thanks again for all the comments. If nothing else, I'm learning a lot.

Steve

With these type of leaks it's best you stick with the same company till the end....tell your daughter to stay away untill job is finished.

I can have a crew there Monday to solve your problem (guarunteed or you dont pay), but when we finish you pay BIG.:D
 
I did some more investigative work over the weekend and have new info. I'm hoping you guys can give me some advice now.

Please refer to the picture below (forgive my poor drawing skills). Since the camera was inconclusive, my objective was to isolate the leak as much as possible. I had a 3" and a 4" inflatable test ball and plenty of air hose. I also had an 8ft long 1x2 that I used to push the test ball into pipe "B". At the end of the 1x2, I attached a small piece of wood on one side so I could "feel" the branches as I inserted it into the pipe. I measured the distances to the "C" and "D" branches shown.

I started by inserting the 3" ball into the c/o for pipe "B". I pushed it in 8ft (see yellow circle #1). I replaced the c/o cap. I ran water into the tub until it reached the top of the shower drain. After turning the water off, the water level immediate began dropping. This confirmed I have at least one leak west of point #1.

I then moved the ball back to point #2, between the branches to "C" and "D". I inserted the 4" ball into the main c/o leading to the sewer (point #3) and ran water into the lavs until it reached the top of the shower drain again. The water level held steady for 2 hours (actually it rose a bit, which I attributed to condensation from my A/C units). This told me:
1. The shower shares branch "C" with the north lav.
2. My leak is in branch "D"--either the tub or toilet.
3. The remainder of the drain system is completely leak free.

Here is where I need advice. How can I further pinpoint the location of the leak? I don't exactly know how the piping is laid out leading to the tub and toilet. Some questions:
a. Should I go with the plumber's theory and tear into the wall behind the tub drain (point#4) to see if I can see anything there? It's pretty easy to fix a sheetrock hole, so I'm leaning this way. But, will I likely be able to see anything if the "broken nut" is the problem?
b. Could/should I pull the toilet and try to insert a test ball as far as I can? Then try another static pressure test? Seems this might implicate or eliminate the toilet.
c. Should I start busting up concrete next? If so, where would be the best place to begin?

I've used a jackhammer and I've replaced toilets before. I installed my own irrigation system so I have worked with PVC pipes. I'm convinced that I can fix this myself if I can just find the problem. I know plumbers gotta eat (I just gave one $400), but so do I. I'm looking at $40-50K in foundation repairs and new floors. If I can save this $3,000 plumbing job by fixing it myself, it will help.

Any advice is appreciated.

BathPiping.jpg
 
it's no different than working in a 3 foot deep trench.

As long as your head is below the top of the trench I would say it's not safe.
You can stand up in a three foot trench, If you don't have something over the top of it. I've been partially buried to the groin and it seemed like an eternity for them to dig me out.

I'll agreee with Caduceus, water will level out at the leak.
Cameras don't see cracks very well unless it happens to be a major seperation.
 
I just had foundation work on a rental property I purchased. House was built in 1967.
Water tests after foundation work was complete came back with a sewer leak under slab.
This is a small 1300 sft house. I have read and heard horror stories about 20K repair jobs!!!! Should I expect such a cost for a home that is only 28 ft by 46ft with all plumbing on exterior walls and main sewer line front to back at max. 25ft? I am throwing in all these dimensions as I understand the cost is based on the length of dig primarily? Am I correct and if so what kind of $ should I be prepared to pay. Tell me I will not go to the poor house on this please.
 
Under slab plumbing leaks may be present for many years before they become evident. Since the sewer system is draining waste water and sewage there is no increase in water usage to alert the home or property owner.
 
Under slab plumbing leaks may be present for many years before they become evident. Since the sewer system is draining waste water and sewage there is no increase in water usage to alert the home or property owner.
You can't identify such leaks by own you need professional Slab Leak Detection experts to identify it.So whenever there is leak , broken tile or slab always hire a professional to repair those broken slabs.
 
Under slab plumbing leaks may be present for many years before they become evident. Since the sewer system is draining waste water and sewage there is no increase in water usage to alert the home or property owner.
You can't identify such leaks by own you need professional Slab Leak Detection experts to identify it.So whenever there is leak , broken tile or slab always hire a professional to repair those broken slabs.
 
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