Toilet rough-in at 11 1/2"

[tollhaus]

I have framing behind the toilet that's 11 1/2" from the toilet drain. Does anyone have a recommendation on a toilet that fits here?

This is in an unfinished basement (the first step in finishing it). Framing could be adjusted, but that would be a pain in the butt. The rough-in drain is in the concrete slab, so I'd adjust the framing there before I thought about moving the drain roug-in by 1/2".

I know one option would be to turn 2x4s on their side and extend the wall by 1 1/2" and use a 10" rough-in toilet.

Updated with the diagram of the toilet that's in the back of my pickup right now. (I'd like to use this toilet if possible.) When I look at these dimensions, is it possible that the 10 3/16" is the actual distance from the drain in the floor to the back of the toilet itself. If it's only 10 3/16", then a 1/2" of drywall would let the toilet fit in the 11 1/2" space with about 3/4" of gap between toilet and wall. Am I right in how I read this?

 

[Twowaxhack]

You should be measuring from the center of the pipe or flange to the 2x wall and for a 12” rough in you should have 12.5” if you’re using 1/2” drywall for your finished wall.

Toilets are typically 12” rough in. The manufacture usually allows for space between the tank and the wall of 3/4-1”.

For this reason a 12” rough in toilet will often sit in a space 11.25” and greater.

You’re reading the wrong measurements you have in red......that’s not the rough in. The rough in you have pictured is 12”.

 

[Arctic trouble]

If you are dead set on that toilet and your measurements are spot you might get away with 1/4 drywall but you will need additional backers. It's also possible to create a slight recess around the tank just by whittling away at a couple studs. You definitely need to consider structural load bearing or not if you go this route.

 

[JoAndo]

Could you use an offset flange?

 

[MicEd69]

You have 11 1/2 inches and need 12 1/2 inches from the center drain line to the stud face. I assume the riser for the closet flange is 3" and the flange is already installed. If it happens to be 4"and still just a pipe, an offset flange like JoAndo said could resolve your problem. Many people dislike a 3" offset in a 3" line as they can cause flow issues they say. But I don't have any personal experience with them myself.

But taking what Arctic trouble suggested a little farther, you may be able to "move" your wall will a little less work than what you were thinking. As this is a basement remodel, the wall is not load bearing. I don't know how long your wall is that is back of the toilet, or your bathroom layout, but you could use 2x3 studs instead of 2x4 studs to get your needed 1".

Now the 2x3 studs I've seen are of quite a bit lower quality than 2x4 studs. Assuming you have a table saw, I would simply cur down your existing studs to 2 1/2" and reuse them. After removing the studs by pulling the nails if they are toenailed in, or us a reciprocating saw if they are bottom nailed, set your circular saw blade at a 1 3/8" depth and rip the bottom and top plate to 2 1/2". Reinstall the now 2 1/2" studs and you should be all set. Actually, after typing this, you could get away with installing the 2x4 studs back without ripping them to 2x3s and then rip some 2x4s to "fill in" the bottom and top plate on the other side of the wall. My assumption is that you concern about moving the wall is that the bottom plate is anchored into the concrete already. This would take some work, but perhaps easier than tearing out the entire wall.

Just a thought.

 

[tollhaus]

Thanks for the answers. Where my toilet is going is actually right up against a knee wall. I'm mad at myself because I built it EXACTLY on my chalk line -- I just screwed up the measurement. I couldn't believe it when the plumber measured and said it's only 11 1/2".

Anyway, I'm going to stick with the toilet I have (designed for a 12" rough-in). My plan is to just rip 1" off the 2x4 framed knee wall, which will give me 12.5" from the drain center to studs. I've already got the bottom tapcon into the slab, etc. So I'd rather just do this to get the plumber working.

Thanks again for the help.

 

[Arctic trouble]

Now that you show a picture it seems quicker and easier to just move that little knee wall back it's just three anchors and some nails. Btw Simpson screws are much more forgiving.