Toilet riser questions (leaks)

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snrusnak

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Joined
Jun 3, 2011
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Location
Gulfport, MS
Hello, it's been awhile since I've posted but after moving from FL to MS I've decided to replace both our toilets this weekend. The old ones weren't nice looking and were sort of worn out as far as the seats and internals go. Both constantly ran/leaked. I bought new toilets with all parts included for $100 (Can't believe that still) each, and they are oval and extra tall.

I had to repair both pvc flanges which wasn't a big deal I used the metal ring screwed over top. I set the toilets, grouted in the bottoms and let cure overnight. Also painted behind the tank while it's out. I use pennies as shims as the closet flange is higher than the floor (3 stacks of pennies, one in front, and two right behind each bolt). I then grout about 95% of the base leaving a few inches open in the back just in case of a leak I could tell it's leaking.

I then finished the assembly next day and changed out the plastic supply valves for quarter turn metal ball valves. I used compression fit to the copper supply line, which is what was already there also. No leaks on either valve.

Then I went to install the copper/chrome toilet riser and I can't for the life of me get it to stop dripping/leaking (I've only done one so far). It leaks both at the supply valve and at the toilet. I've tightened both ends multiple times to try and seat them but still dripping. The toilet connection I have about as tight as I can get it by hand and I'm a big guy...

Should I just give up and use flex hoses? I know they are easier but I liked the look of the hard lines better and felt they'd hold up better.

Am I doing something wrong or should I give in to the easy/flex way ???

Thanks!







 
Thanks for the response.

So first of all, after my post I realized that the bottom fitting at the supply valve is not actually leaking, it is only leaking at the tank of the toilet. The drip is running down the pipe to the valve, doh!

So I've probably over tightened that fitting by now, but oh well. I may redo this riser as I realized a mistake I made...

I now realize I probably should have attached the riser to the toilet first then to the supply valve. I attached to the supply valve first then to the toilet, which may be putting a stress/angle on the gasket at the joint between the riser/toilet and not allow proper seating (just like you said). I think I'm going to redo this one and see how it goes.

Also, not to negate a professionals opinion, but isnt the point of a compression fitting to not have to use a sealant??? I'd think the need for sealant / dope means the compression fitting isn't seated properly. Yes?
 
snrusnak said:
Should I just give up and use flex hoses? I know they are easier but I liked the look of the hard lines better and felt they'd hold up better.
Click to expand...

They do look nicer! I hate exposed flex hoses especially those gray nylon jobs... :mad:

Correct, connect the tank connection first and then the supply valve. The tubing has to be straight (and tube not too short) so as to seal easier.

There is no bowl movement, correct?
 
Correct, no bowl movement. The bowl is shimmed and grouted, very stable. The tank also has no movement, which I believe some toilet designs the tank isn't so firmly attached. I wrapped TP around the riser and verified it is only dripping from the top/toilet connection. I believe this is my problem, the way I installed it, I don't believe I have a flat/flush seal.

Will try the other toilet today and see how it goes, and if good will buy another riser and redo this one. Thanks!
 
this is how i do it.

thread the supply tube onto the bottof tank..

grab the supply tube with . right hand, thumb on the tube and tip of thumb against the nut on tank,

twist your wristusing your thumb as a bender. bend to 45 degrees

move your hand down. line up thumb with valve. bend a 45 down to valve

mark tube at top of valve body, unscrew from tank, cut, install

works for me, every time
 
if you are really into pretty. buy a set of 3/8'' benders.

mechanical not a spring.

THAT LOOKS GOOD

spin_prod_225601701
 
KULTULZ said:
The tubing has to be straight (and tube not too short) so as to seal easier.

There is no bowl movement, correct?
Click to expand...

What I meant to imply is that the tubing where entering the fitting(s) must be straight (ask me how I know).

Bowl movement? Thank goodness for spell check... :eek:
 
For chrome supply tubes I always use tubing benders, take a measurement and pre-fab the offset I want. I don't like the "swoop" look because if that's what I was going for, I would just use a braided flex hose. There's nothing wrong with the braided hose, that's what I use the majority of the time, but some customers prefer the chrome tube for esthetics.
 
lol kultulz!

I did the second toilet bending with my thumbs but first attached to the toilet. Worked much better, perfect fit and no stress. Been a few hours now and no drips, I'd say I'm good. I'm going to redo the first toilet riser as I have now tightened the ferral so much I'm sure I cant get it loose to reset it. Thanks for the help!

Oh and I thought it looked pretty good bent by hand. The hoses to me look OK but not when they are all twisted and bent and kinked. That's why I like the solid risers. I feel they will last longer compared to a hose that is under a sharp bend stress. (JMO, I'm no pro...)
 
The braided ones will generally last longer. Chrome supplies look great for a few years until they corrode and turn green.
 
10-4. The ones I replaced were 16 years old and although didn't look nice and chrome anymore, were nice and dull silverish. They did have some corrosion around the fittings.
 
As most here should know by now, I am CDO (listed in correct alphabetical order).

I much prefer chromed supply and DWV under a sink cabinet or in full view.

In this case-

IMG_20160312_155425311_zpsnooaefwb.jpg


...I would most likely move the angle valve directly under the water supply valve for a straight shot ... :eek:

Not criticizing your install (appropriate bends), but I am that anal.

I remember... :rolleyes: ... when the supply valve(s) were brass and the retaining nut was chromed.

Nice caulk job BTW... :D
 
woah are you saying you'd move the valve further to the right (closer to the toilet) ? As in drywall work, etc? Or am I misunderstanding and are you saying rotate the valve clockwise?

I think It'll be fine once I buy a new riser and install it properly :)

Thanks, it's actually grout not caulk though. I hate caulking! Grout should give much better support I'd guess, also.
 
kulutz is getting carried away. you done fine, it looks good

i like grout better myself. it will keep a terlet from rocking. if the floor is uneven


not saying to do it, nothing wrong with what you have.

but, the stop can be turned 90 degrees to the right.
and with benders, a 90 degree bend would look good to anyone laying on the floor looking :D
 
Last edited:
snrusnak said:
woah are you saying you'd move the valve further to the right (closer to the toilet) ? As in drywall work, etc? Or am I misunderstanding and are you saying rotate the valve clockwise?

I think It'll be fine once I buy a new riser and install it properly :)

Thanks, it's actually grout not caulk though. I hate caulking! Grout should give much better support I'd guess, also.
Click to expand...

:eek:

No, I said that I am anal enough to do it in my home... :D

Your install is fine!
 
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