submersible to shallow well jet pump question

[Aug]

I have a failing submersible pump in my shallow well of approximately 13 feet. The well is about 30 feet away from the closest side of my house and the land is flat. Before this goes, I was thinking about replacing it with a shallow well jet pump as well as trading out the galvanized pipe for pvc. Putting a new foot valve is in order as well. I have 2 full bathrooms, washer, and dishwasher in the kitchen and 3 outside valves for attaching hoses around the house. So it looks like 1/2 horsepower model. Recommendations of reliable models/ brands are welcome.

One concern is that I have is that the current setup already has a pressure switch mounted where the tank is housed. Will the pump work correctly if I take off the premounted pressure switch that comes with the new pump and use my setup instead? I'd also buy a threaded plug to keep the water in the pump. I don't know if this will work, but I wanted to ask here first.
Thank you for taking the time to provide feedback and suggestions.

 

[Valveman]

Switching from a sub to a jet pump is switching to more trouble and less pressure. Stay with a submersible and hang it on PVC pipe. At that depth you can use a Hallmark, 1HP, 33 GPM pump as they are only 170 bucks on Ebay here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/290825831348

Add a good check valve, as the one that comes with the pump is not. Leave your pressure switch where it is and add a Cycle Stop Valve before the pressure tank to get strong constant pressure and make the pump last many times longer than normal.

 

[Aug]

Switching from a sub to a jet pump is switching to more trouble and less pressure. Stay with a submersible and hang it on PVC pipe. At that depth you can use a Hallmark, 1HP, 33 GPM pump as they are only 170 bucks on Ebay here. https://www.ebay.com/itm/290825831348

Add a good check valve, as the one that comes with the pump is not. Leave your pressure switch where it is and add a Cycle Stop Valve before the pressure tank to get strong constant pressure and make the pump last many times longer than normal.

View attachment 45901

The pump looks pretty nice, Valveman--and great for sandy soil too. One of the reviews left said that the 12 gauge grounding wire wasn't robust enough causing pump burnout. I like that it has a built in control box as well.
Do you know if the pump can be partially disassembled to swap that out, or would I have to do a splice job?

I believe I have a 89 gallon tank in the garage in the picture, and I don't know if I have enough room to add a cycle stop valve inside which I would love to by the way, or put it out in the pump house.

Is there any advantage to having the adjustable valve vs. a fixed valve setting?

Thank you again for the suggestions and diagram!

 

[Valveman]

Two wire pumps don't have a control box. The ground wire is fine. Pumps use to come without a ground wire and they worked just fine. The only thing that messes up the wire is torqueing from the pump cycling on and off too much. Every time the pump starts it slaps the wire against the pipe and/or casing. Eliminate chaffed wire is just one more thing eliminating cycling helps with.

The CSV1A is more robust and adjustable. The preset plastic CSV125 valves are great, but they can leak a few drops on the floor if the water has any sediment or iron in it, so we recommend installing them outdoors or in the well, where they were designed to fit.

The CSV would need to go below the tee to the tank, so it would take a few elbows to make it fit. But you have a flotec tank? Might as well get the PK1A kit with the 4.5 gallon tank and do away with all of what you have. You can cut the pipe above the floor and attach it to the PK1A kit mounted up on the wall, and then elbow back down to the pipe going to the house. Here is a similar one like that.

 

[Aug]

Two wire pumps don't have a control box. The ground wire is fine. Pumps use to come without a ground wire and they worked just fine. The only thing that messes up the wire is torqueing from the pump cycling on and off too much. Every time the pump starts it slaps the wire against the pipe and/or casing. Eliminate chaffed wire is just one more thing eliminating cycling helps with.

The CSV1A is more robust and adjustable. The preset plastic CSV125 valves are great, but they can leak a few drops on the floor if the water has any sediment or iron in it, so we recommend installing them outdoors or in the well, where they were designed to fit.

The CSV would need to go below the tee to the tank, so it would take a few elbows to make it fit. But you have a flotec tank? Might as well get the PK1A kit with the 4.5 gallon tank and do away with all of what you have.

Thank you, Valveman! I love all of your products and am beginning to understand how they work, the problem is my budget. Ha! My plan is to attach the CSV125 in the well house then and take out the flotec that's crammed in the garage when it fails to replace it with one of your smaller tanks when the time comes.

A few more questions that I had reading some of your previous posts:

For the check valve which brand/ model have you found to be the most reliable?

Would you recommend using a 5gpm dole valve in conjunction since the pump has a 33gpm max rating and the well is only 13 feet deep with an unknown recovery time?

Thank you again

 

[Valveman]

Sorry I missed this. Simmons, Flomatic, are check valves I use. But there are many good ones. Just need a metal, spring loaded, poppet style, and brand is not that important.

I would not use a Dole valve. The CSV will work like an adjustable Dole valve that will match whatever flow rate you have open. Open only 5 GPM and the CSV is a 5 GPM flow restrictor itself.