Relocating Toilet Flange?

[spongeworthy]

Hi,

I am building out a basement bathroom. To complete the design as intended, the roughed-in toilet flange must be moved approximately 14 inches. By doing this, I would be able to increase size of shower/steam room. Trouble is, it is set in a concrete slab with radiant heat installed. Given slab is four inches thick, it is likely Pex tubing would be compromised if I attempt to jack hammer concrete to relocate flange. As a result, I am considering raising floor level. Ceiling height in Basement is ten feet, so there is no issue with head room. The design would allow someone to enter bathroom at slab height. The vanity sink and shower stall would be located in this area at slab height. Then one would walk up one or two steps to raised platform where toilet would be located on a raised platform. Kind of a king's thrown/perch for sitting and contemplating while looking over the kingdom. Or bird watching.

Three questions: (1) If I did this, what would be the best way to connect the relocated toilet flange (built upon a raised floor) to the original toilet flange? (2) How high would the floor have to be to accommodate relocated flange (offset is about 14 inches); (3) Would this be a ridiculous design element.?

In photo, flange has to be relocated to approximately where DelMonte can is.

 

[johnjh2o]

Break up the floor. If you should cut a heat line PEX is very easy to repair.

 

[frodo]

you need to rethink the location of the toilet.

your toilet from FINISHED wall to the center of the toilet, has got to be 15'' MINIMUM from side wall to center

and, 12'' from plumbing wall to center.

you have it drawn in. to close on th side wall

 

[havasu]

Good catch buddy!

 

[stevemachine]

I agree with frodo. Personally i go 12.5" then its 12" from finished wall but thats minor. Good catch frodo

 

[spongeworthy]

Thanks for responses. The pic is a bit misleading. Currently the flange is 27 inches center from sidewall. Given 1" future finished wall surface, that leaves 12 inches the flange could be relocated towards sidewall. The flange currently sits 12 inches from rough wall to flange center. Given 1 inch of future wall thickness I either have to reposition the flange or obtain a toilet with a ten inch clearance.

So now, my dilemma is essentially the same. I must relocate flange, just not as far. I would've done a bit more research on clearances before relocating. The 14 inch figure was an estimate. It still seems to me that jackhammering the concrete is something to avoid. I can't imagine it being easy to fix a Pex tube that is encased in concrete. I have trouble imagining that by jackhammering the concrete, the concrete is going to simply fall away from the Pex tubing allowing for the easy addition of a splice. What if a line of Pex completely blocks the path to the new flange location? I haven't jackhammered concrete with Pex in it before…Is it a piece of cake to do this or a possible nightmare?

So lets focus on the platform idea. If there is a one food raised platform built over the existing flange (or two foot) how would I best connect the new flange with the existing floor drain?

 

[frodo]

what is the floor material ? concrete ? or self leveling gyp crete.?

you can build a raised floor, you will have to bust the floor around the flange to remove it and add a fitting.

I strongly advise you NOT to build a platform. from a purely plumbing stand point.

I dont care it will look like crap, not my house.

but you are wanting to add 90 degree bends to a toilet.

this is going to plug up on you ever time you drop a bomb.

the bomb IS going to get hung up in the 90. causing you to use a closet auger,

that in itsel will be a PITA it does not like to go around 90's

get a chipping hammer, a hammer and chisel

bust the floor by hand, taking your time, move the toilet the correct way

what you are wanting to do, is against code.
the offset would be more than 135 degrees, it would require a clean out
and you would have to use long sweeps, to offset it

706.4sanitary drainage
1002.3 traps and interceptors