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Plumber's putty in that last one?
 
I spy with my little eye a violation of the electrical code in the bathroom at the doctor's office.
20A outlet no less.
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They keep that bathroom locked so anyone who wants to use it has to get the key on that purple carabiner. I asked the clerks who was responsible for replacing outlets and they said the doctor because he owns the building. When he came out and told me about my brother's eyesight and bp I told him about the outlet and said that it needs to be GFCI. He said he had one at home he could bring in to replace it. I will be checking the next time I go there.
 
The gfci could be on a line, meaning the trip/reset tab is entirely in another room. My kitchen is set up the same way. I have 4 sets of outlets, all protected by a localized gfci.

Line or Load With GFCI Connection​

When it comes to GFCI outlets, there is always a question as to how to connect the wires. This is because GFCIs have two different sets of terminals: the line terminals and the load terminals. When you connect only to the line terminals, the outlet provides GFCI protection only for itself. When you connect to both the line and the load terminals, the outlet protects itself and any additional outlets farther down on the same electrical circuit.
 
You could stick something in the outlet and find out. 😬

Just kidding, make someone else do it. 🤣
 
From what I understand, if an outlet is protected by GFCI it is supposed to have a sticker on it indicating that. But that is not always done I guess.

On a different note: I ordered a cheap suction cup towel bar to hold my washcloth. It kept falling and wasn't drying well when I hung it over the tub spout. If I can keep my brother from tearing it off the wall I'm hoping it should work well.
1708050511112.png
 
From what I understand, if an outlet is protected by GFCI it is supposed to have a sticker on it indicating that. But that is not always done I guess.

On a different note: I ordered a cheap suction cup towel bar to hold my washcloth. It kept falling and wasn't drying well when I hung it over the tub spout. If I can keep my brother from tearing it off the wall I'm hoping it should work well.
View attachment 44290
I have never seen one with a sticker
 
I built this washing machine pump basin on the fly out of necessity about 7 yrs ago to be temporary but it’s worked so well I left it.

It failed this morning due to lint build up and the pump label coming off and helping the lint clog the pumps intake.

I pulled the pump and tested the float switch, amp draw and replaced the zip ties. Cleaned the basin out, one side had 1/2” of sludge.

Put it back in service.

1939903E-0C03-4CF0-A16E-AB557CFB65C6.jpeg8553FEBB-6D88-4E88-96FA-A36F86F5ECE5.jpeg4F0DD239-E57C-47E3-95DF-5C194AF48059.jpegF955D0A7-164A-4E2C-8C61-2297035BD5BD.jpegE7136940-5F7E-489A-B7E9-3C3B66785B86.jpeg3E9A5BAC-096F-4616-A427-E47BDB15AFEB.jpegC2055064-B3EF-4AA3-802F-9ADE06653615.jpeg212F219E-BC11-4442-B99D-61758F60E638.jpegDDAE877D-0704-4491-AE11-BE0743F0B47A.jpeg
That’s two garbage cans, one inside the other to give it strength. The pump is 1/3hp $100 at the time Ridgid utility pump. The float switch is just a piggyback float from Ace Hardware.
5gal. Bucket waterproof electrical cover.
Works perfect 👍
 
Prefabing a natural gas meter manifold. Only one line will be used initially, a 75k btu natural gas cooktop, it’s a monster.

Here’s the backside that will face the maintenance area. CD179F0D-B45B-49BF-8089-A667742B16F8.jpeg
Here’s the front side that will be visible to guests.
CEE26715-1B49-4781-BBDD-E58A6054F272.jpeg
It’s 1” stainless reduced to 1/2 brass valve and a 3/8” OD flare outlet. 2psi system. I’ll cut the unistrut to size on the job.
 
@MicEd69

I was reading on Nibco website that they only recommend Teflon tape to install their ballvalves. No pipe dope.

Never tape and dope.

I don’t agree with them but that’s what they say.

I used Loctite 567 on the above assembly. I really like it but it’s expensive as crap.
 

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