Main shutoff

[jmulla]

I have a 1" supply coming into the house (approx. 40 years old). There are two shutoffs - one appears to be a gate valve that is before the meter, the other is a regular compression valve after the meter.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/iaok419kocuk5tn/AAB4FHloq8Aer6qIGxjbS6dga?dl=0

Even with both valves shut off as tightly as possible, opening all fixtures in the house, and letting the lines drain for a whole day, there is still a bit of a drip. Both of these valves aren't closing 100%.

As we are gone for extended periods, I'd like to solve this problem and get a tight shutoff so I can drain the whole house.

Questions:
1) Is it practical to try and remove the stem of the compression valve and replace it? Will I be able to get it off after all these years? Will I be able to find a replacement stem or washer? (Sorry, no pics yet, except the body.)

2) Should I just leave these two valves and install a new ball valve after the second valve? If so, would a compression ball valve be OK, or should I install a sweat valve? (The valves are in a finished basement in a small (2' x 2') "closet". I'm concerned about creating a lot of fumes if I try to sweat it. I have done a lot of sweating before, but not in such a cramped space.

Suggestions welcome!

Thanks.

 

[Geofd]

both look to be the sweat type I can't see the bottom one but
that my iPod top is definitely a sweat valve just replace it with new
if you don't want to solder you have 2 options
1. Use a pro press machine(not sure if you can rent one)
they press or crimp special copper fittings to the pipe
2.use a1" compression ball valve compression type
has a nut and a ferrel (brass ring) that crimp onto the 1"
copper I bet pricey thou
3.if yoou choose to solder drain the hous and loosen one
of the meter unions so water doesn't get to the pipe
4 there is another type of valve specialy made for water
mains I think it's made by water works its like a compression
fitting but will work on any material inside the pipe ends there
are little stainless steel teeth as you tighten the nut the teeth
grip the pipe once you tighten the nut there is a locking screw
so the nut can't back off you won't find any of these things at
the big box stores umbing supply house. Or some place that
sells water meters

 

[jmulla]

Thanks, Geofd. I already have a 1" compression ball valve. I think I will use that, but add it in line and leave both of the other valves to reduce the amount of work/risk.

I read somewhere to be careful with compression joints on older pipe, but since this is pretty sturdy 1" copper, I would think I'll be OK. Will use two wrenches to make sure I don't twist the pipe, though.

The drip from the gate valve is slow enough that I should be able to collect it in a bucket.

Wish me luck!!

 

[Geofd]

sounds like you have it under control already
put a little pipe dope on the ferrels not required
but I use Teflon paste

 

[jmulla]

Yep, for lubrication, not sealing.

 

[Geofd]

exactly.....