Kitchen P-Trap Help Needed

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Oops, the joint you circled as leaking doesn't have a gasket. I don't know what I was thinking. I guess when you said you installed a thicker gasket, I didn't think it through. The joint circled seals on the beveled shapes of the trap arm and the P-trap "U". If you installed a gasket there, you may have trouble in the near future.

But if you meant that the leak was coming from the trap arm to adapter fitting and that you installed the correct gasket there to fix the leak, everything is good.
Some of them do have a slip joint washer at the j-bend/weir connection
 
Thanks to all for your help with this! But I'm not done 😢. While checking for leaks on my newly installed water filter system (none!) I noticed that the old p-trap for the left sink is starting to go. There's a hairline crack that's beginning to leak. At this point it's barely leaking- just some occasional weeping since this drain gets little use except for the brine water from the filter system. Even so, I want to replace it before it deteriorates further, but this one looks trickier due to those old fittings and no real length of PVC to work with. There's no place for the adapter on the wall pipe. If I can remove just the old trap, can I just install a new one without the wall tube? So again, I'll be grateful for any help/suggestions on how to deal with this one.

left-crp.jpg
 
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Thanks to all for your help with this! But I'm not done 😢. While checking for leaks on my newly installed water filter system (none!) I noticed that the old p-trap for the left sink is starting to go. There's a hairline crack that's beginning to leak. At this point it's barely leaking- just some occasional weeping since this drain gets little use except for the brine water from the filter system. Even so, I want to replace it before it deteriorates further, but this one looks trickier due to those old fittings and no real length of PVC to work with. There's no place for the adapter on the wall pipe. If I can remove just the old trap, can I just install a new one without the wall tube? So again, I'll be grateful for any help/suggestions on how to deal with this one.

View attachment 40557
@Twowaxhack - any suggestions? This one has me stumped.
 
Cut where I marked in red. This will leave the hub of the wye intact ( marked in blue) with pipe glued into it.
98F33A12-6222-4475-958D-62BFE1151CA4.jpeg

This fitting will solvent weld with your pvc glue OVER that hub. It’s a specialty fitting.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-Stephens-P22100-1-1-2-Plastic-Over-Fitting-Repair-Fitting-PVC

Then you’ll need one of these…….
https://www.acehardware.com/departm...V5v_jBx3ssAp_EAQYASABEgI37PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
This will glue inside of the specialty fitting above. It’ll accept the new ptrap you buy. Buy one just like you used before and just throw away the pipe adapter that comes with it.

You’ll use the pipe adapter I told you to buy above. It’ll save room…..you don’t have much room there.

In fact it’s so close that the above fittings and my directions may not work. The trap might be too large to fit back into your space. You can try. If it doesn’t work you’ll need to cut that pvc wye off and configure it another way. Thevwye looks like it’s almost jammed up against the wall without any pipe exposed. Not good for a homeowner.
 
Cut where I marked in red. This will leave the hub of the wye intact ( marked in blue) with pipe glued into it.
View attachment 40563

This fitting will solvent weld with your pvc glue OVER that hub. It’s a specialty fitting.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-Stephens-P22100-1-1-2-Plastic-Over-Fitting-Repair-Fitting-PVC

Then you’ll need one of these…….
https://www.acehardware.com/departm...V5v_jBx3ssAp_EAQYASABEgI37PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
This will glue inside of the specialty fitting above. It’ll accept the new ptrap you buy. Buy one just like you used before and just throw away the pipe adapter that comes with it.

You’ll use the pipe adapter I told you to buy above. It’ll save room…..you don’t have much room there.

In fact it’s so close that the above fittings and my directions may not work. The trap might be too large to fit back into your space. You can try. If it doesn’t work you’ll need to cut that pvc wye off and configure it another way. Thevwye looks like it’s almost jammed up against the wall without any pipe exposed. Not good for a homeowner.
I like that over hub fitting, I need to find one in ABS to keep on the van
 
Cut where I marked in red. This will leave the hub of the wye intact ( marked in blue) with pipe glued into it.
View attachment 40563

This fitting will solvent weld with your pvc glue OVER that hub. It’s a specialty fitting.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Jones-Stephens-P22100-1-1-2-Plastic-Over-Fitting-Repair-Fitting-PVC

Then you’ll need one of these…….
https://www.acehardware.com/departm...V5v_jBx3ssAp_EAQYASABEgI37PD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
This will glue inside of the specialty fitting above. It’ll accept the new ptrap you buy. Buy one just like you used before and just throw away the pipe adapter that comes with it.

You’ll use the pipe adapter I told you to buy above. It’ll save room…..you don’t have much room there.

In fact it’s so close that the above fittings and my directions may not work. The trap might be too large to fit back into your space. You can try. If it doesn’t work you’ll need to cut that pvc wye off and configure it another way. Thevwye looks like it’s almost jammed up against the wall without any pipe exposed. Not good for a homeowner.
Thank you so much for taking the time to mark the photo, and post the links and suggestions! I've bookmarked everything in case I decide to try it, but since you have some doubts and this trap barely leaks, I may have my go-to pro do this job. I'd hate to saw and dismantle everything just to find that it's not going to work.
 
Thank you so much for taking the time to mark the photo, and post the links and suggestions! I've bookmarked everything in case I decide to try it, but since you have some doubts and this trap barely leaks, I may have my go-to pro do this job. I'd hate to saw and dismantle everything just to find that it's not going to work.
I’d buy the parts then measure it out before I cut anything.
 
Thanks for the clarification.

So that isn't a slip connection nor a joint that seals on the beveled shapes of the trap arm and the P-trap "U", but has an actual gasket. In looking at the item pictures, I can see that now. I guess Oatley just hasn't updated their installation video, as that still shows the beveled sealing surface on the trap arm and no gasket at that joint.

When a kit comes with multiple parts, it is easy to install the incorrect gasket. Been there, done that.
 
I’d buy the parts then measure it out before I cut anything.
A+ advice! When you say “it’s so close that the above fittings and my directions may not work.” are you suggesting that the wall tube on the trap may not reach the wall pipe?
 
A+ advice! When you say “it’s so close that the above fittings and my directions may not work.” are you suggesting that the wall tube on the trap may not reach the wall pipe?
Once you install all the pieces it all may be too long and you can only shorten it so much.
 
Thanks to all for your help with this! But I'm not done 😢. While checking for leaks on my newly installed water filter system (none!) I noticed that the old p-trap for the left sink is starting to go. There's a hairline crack that's beginning to leak. At this point it's barely leaking- just some occasional weeping since this drain gets little use except for the brine water from the filter system. Even so, I want to replace it before it deteriorates further, but this one looks trickier due to those old fittings and no real length of PVC to work with. There's no place for the adapter on the wall pipe. If I can remove just the old trap, can I just install a new one without the wall tube? So again, I'll be grateful for any help/suggestions on how to deal with this one.

View attachment 40557
I may have found the problem and solution. At my plumber's suggestion, I filled the sink, pulled the plug, and let the water run for about 5 minutes to pinpoint the leak. There was no actual leak, but I could feel seepage under the nut that connects to the drain pipe. That nut was not tight, so I hand-tightened it and will check again later. The trap itself is not leaking, and what I thought was a crack is just the natural seam in the pipe. 🤞🏻
left-arrow.jpg
 
I may have found the problem and solution. At my plumber's suggestion, I filled the sink, pulled the plug, and let the water run for about 5 minutes to pinpoint the leak. There was no actual leak, but I could feel seepage under the nut that connects to the drain pipe. That nut was not tight, so I hand-tightened it and will check again later. The trap itself is not leaking, and what I thought was a crack is just the natural seam in the
pipe. 🤞🏻
View attachment 40609

View attachment 40609
Checking an hour later there were a few drops in the bucket. There was water on the bottom of the trap, but not on the sides. The nut was dry. So there may be a leak from the bottom of the trap. Tricky.
 
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