How would a real plumber install a new laundry basin faucet?

[JVH75]

I want to replace a 50+ year old faucet that is corroded. It has metal tabs on the bottom in the front and rear to hold it on the basin. The copper pipes above are fixed. I was going to cut the vertical copper pipes to install the new faucet but there would be no room due to the faucet tabs. Suggestions?

 

[Twowaxhack]

I’d cut the copper where I’ve marked in red, clean, flux and solder in a new valve using slip couplings and short pieces of copper.

 

[Twowaxhack]

But personally I’d do one of two things in this situation.

I’d replace the entire sink or I’d just rebuild the faucet with parts to make it operate like new.

 

[pasadena_commut]

Is there a problem with the way the faucet functions?

Are you concerned because the brass has turned green? That can be cleaned off, for instance with "brasso". Once clean there are products which can be applied to seal the surface so that it doesn't happen again.

It may also be that acids are being stored nearby, and that has led to the corrosion on the brass and on the copper pipes (which in the picture seem to be about the same color). Does the OP have a pool? Are there bottles of muriatic acid in the garage?

 

[JVH75]

Is there a problem with the way the faucet functions?

Are you concerned because the brass has turned green? That can be cleaned off, for instance with "brasso". Once clean there are products which can be applied to seal the surface so that it doesn't happen again.

It may also be that acids are being stored nearby, and that has led to the corrosion on the brass and on the copper pipes (which in the picture seem to be about the same color). Does the OP have a pool? Are there bottles of muriatic acid in the garage?

Thanks, no muriatic acid nearby. My concern is the copper pipes above the faucet are fixed. There is no give so I didn't know if all of the copper pipes above needed to be replaced. The slip coupling suggested above may be the best approach.

 

[JVH75]

Thanks, no muriatic acid nearby. My concern is the copper pipes above the faucet are fixed. There is no give so I didn't know if all of the copper pipes above needed to be replaced. The slip coupling suggested above may be the best approach.

Also the existing faucet leaks, and the hot and cold valves are so corroded they hardly turn.

 

[pasadena_commut]

Also the existing faucet leaks, and the hot and cold valves are so corroded they hardly turn.

That sounds like it might just need new stems or possibly new valve seats. New handles too most likely, they look pretty chewed up in the picture, but the resolution isn't high enough to say for sure.

Admittedly if you don't know ahead of time what model that is there is a real possibility that when you pull the old stems out you won't be able to find matching ones to replace them. There is nothing wrong with wanting to replace the whole faucet of course, but if changing the stems fixes it, that would be less work and less money than replacing the whole faucet.

If you want to try to fix it then perhaps remove one handle (take out the screw and most likely use a handle puller), then take a picture of the installed stem. Perhaps somebody here will recognize it. If you pull a stem out there is a possibility it won't work at all when it goes back in. For instance, the rubber washer that is probably at the end of the stem may disintegrate. (Which is usually no big deal, since those washers are typically very easy to replace.) So, if you feel like rolling the dice, pull the hot side stem first, so you can still have cold water in the house if you can't find a replacement, until you can get around to replacing the faucet.

This faucet looks quite a bit like that one:

https://www.amazon.com/Central-Brass-0465-2-Handle-Laundry/dp/B0019716M4

To see some more search for: top feed laundry basin faucet

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

For $47+, I would replace it. I bet if you were able to find valves stems that fit, to replace what’s there, they might cost a reasonable $10 each or so maybe a little less maybe a little more… That’s a lot to invest in a 50-year-old faucet when you can replace it with something almost identical at the Amazon price.

 

[Twowaxhack]

For $47+, I would replace it. I bet if you were able to find valves stems that fit, to replace what’s there, they might cost a reasonable $10 each or so maybe a little less maybe a little more… That’s a lot to invest in a 50-year-old faucet when you can replace it with something almost identical at the Amazon price.

It’s the work involved in replacing it rather than the cost of the parts that you’re saving.

Some people who do not have the skills to replace the faucet do have the technical skills to replace the stems and handles.

But sure, if he can, replace it.

I have 25 yr old appliances….they work great after a few repairs here and there. Most people would have bought new appliances, maybe several replacements. I don’t play the “ throw away game”.

 

[MicEd69]

For $47+, I would replace it. I bet if you were able to find valves stems that fit, to replace what’s there, they might cost a reasonable $10 each or so maybe a little less maybe a little more… That’s a lot to invest in a 50-year-old faucet when you can replace it with something almost identical at the Amazon price.

Yep, I'm thinking it more on the "+" side of 50 years. And the valve seats may be pitted requiring reaming to bring them back into serviceable condition. Replacement is the best way to approach this.

As the OP's original concern was that the piping above the faucet was "fixed", it appears that he is able to do soldering. That replacement faucet and a couple of slip couplings looks like the way to go.

 

[three_jeeps]

FWIW, I installed the Central Brass faucet identified in earlier post. It works fine but has an annoying behavior - When I open either the hot or cold valve (or both together) to a certain position and leave it there, it tends to slowly reduce the flow to some point and then holds it there. It is not a lot of flow reduction, but it is noticeable and annoying. It operated like that from day 1. I don't know of any way to fix it.

 

[Twowaxhack]

FWIW, I installed the Central Brass faucet identified in earlier post. It works fine but has an annoying behavior - When I open either the hot or cold valve (or both together) to a certain position and leave it there, it tends to slowly reduce the flow to some point and then holds it there. It is not a lot of flow reduction, but it is noticeable and annoying. It operated like that from day 1. I don't know of any way to fix it.

I’d start by replacing the washers with quality replacements. Soft washers can cause issues like you’re having, more so on the hot side because the hot water makes cheap washers swell more.

When I repair faucets they’re often better than new because I use better parts when available.

Good luck

 

[three_jeeps]

thank you! sounds reasonable. Where can a homeowner get quality replacements? I have a feeling Home Depot does not fit the bill. Is Danco a good brand?
I am close to a plumbing supply house but they only sell to contractors.

 

[Twowaxhack]

thank you! sounds reasonable. Where can a homeowner get quality replacements? I have a feeling Home Depot does not fit the bill. Is Danco a good brand?
I am close to a plumbing supply house but they only sell to contractors.

Try Chicago faucet shoppe. Tell them you want some best quality neoprene faucet washers. Also get some silicone grease to lube everything up.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

I have 25 yr old appliances….they work great after a few repairs here and there. Most people would have bought new appliances, maybe several replacements. I don’t play the “ throw away game”.

The appliances of 25 years ago bear little resemblance to the appliances of today. Take a washing machine or dryer, with an electro-mechanical timer. Lots of electrical and mechanical parts, all of them replaceable or repairable. There were a few timers made by a few suppliers to supply nearly every manufacturer's washing machine. Today's washing machines are far more complex, and like nearly every other appliance from laundry to kitchen, has a control board. If the control board fails, you are generally screwed. They are often quite expensive and there's no telling it will solve your problem...could be one of the myriad sensors.

While some appliances can be fixed, that doesn't mean they should be. Take a builder's grade dishwasher that's 15 years old and failed because of the pump or similar. You need to completely remove the dishwasher, turn it upside down, remove the pump, find a new pump and re-install. You are easily looking at $200 or more in labor (for those that have to hire a pro), not to mention the part. The GE WD26X10013 Genuine OEM Pump and Motor Assembly used in a ton of GE dishwashers made in the past 50 years costs about $200. Even if you do the job yourself, are you going to buy a $200 part to put in a 15 year old dishwasher? Makes no sense. If you have to hire someone to do it, the best advice is to replace the dishwasher. The GE dishwasher in my new home "failed" when just two years old. Looking up the fix for the symptom (telling me the door wasn't closed) I saw a common issue with the switch interlock at the top. I bought the new part ($26) and replaced it. Didn't solve the problem, so I was out $26 plus days of waiting and hours of labor. Thankfully I "parted out" the unit and made a few bucks to help defray the cost of a new Bosch 800.

A 25 year old electric range can also be easily repaired. A new one? There's that control board thing again...If all your [electric] appliances (except a microwave) are 25 years old, you can probably keep them going forever.

 

[Twowaxhack]

The appliances of 25 years ago bear little resemblance to the appliances of today. Take a washing machine or dryer, with an electro-mechanical timer. Lots of electrical and mechanical parts, all of them replaceable or repairable. There were a few timers made by a few suppliers to supply nearly every manufacturer's washing machine. Today's washing machines are far more complex, and like nearly every other appliance from laundry to kitchen, has a control board. If the control board fails, you are generally screwed. They are often quite expensive and there's no telling it will solve your problem...could be one of the myriad sensors.

While some appliances can be fixed, that doesn't mean they should be. Take a builder's grade dishwasher that's 15 years old and failed because of the pump or similar. You need to completely remove the dishwasher, turn it upside down, remove the pump, find a new pump and re-install. You are easily looking at $200 or more in labor (for those that have to hire a pro), not to mention the part. The GE WD26X10013 Genuine OEM Pump and Motor Assembly used in a ton of GE dishwashers made in the past 50 years costs about $200. Even if you do the job yourself, are you going to buy a $200 part to put in a 15 year old dishwasher? Makes no sense. If you have to hire someone to do it, the best advice is to replace the dishwasher. The GE dishwasher in my new home "failed" when just two years old. Looking up the fix for the symptom (telling me the door wasn't closed) I saw a common issue with the switch interlock at the top. I bought the new part ($26) and replaced it. Didn't solve the problem, so I was out $26 plus days of waiting and hours of labor. Thankfully I "parted out" the unit and made a few bucks to help defray the cost of a new Bosch 800.

A 25 year old electric range can also be easily repaired. A new one? There's that control board thing again...If all your [electric] appliances (except a microwave) are 25 years old, you can probably keep them going forever.

You’re telling everyone why I decided to repair and keep my appliances.

It’s the same reason why I buy plumbing valves that I can repair. Thank you.

 

[Mitchell-DIY-Guy]

You’re telling everyone why I decided to repair and keep my appliances.

It’s the same reason why I buy plumbing valves that I can repair. Thank you.

It's kind of funny how you could purchase today, if you needed, an electric heating element for an early 1960s electric stove or oven. It would be easy to get and reasonable in price. Same for a motor for a 1989 Kenmore washing machine, or a timer for a 1992 Maytag dryer. While getting parts such as racks, side panels, and other cosmetics may be challenging, the guts that keep these things running are available.

Try getting a control board for ANY appliance built around 2010-2012. If they still make them, they are going to be costly. When my Kitchen Aid Oven/Microwave failed in 2018 (it was from 2002) despite making an almost identical unit, the control board was NLA.

I don't know how old your appliances are but you've said before you have a 100% electric house. I do believe you can keep them running forever (or at least your lifetime).

Personally I kind of miss the old school washers and dryers. These new highly efficient ones are too damn smart and I dread the day my wife says one isn't working...