How to repair Kohler toilet shut off valve

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Aaronac8

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Please see photos below of my Kohler shut off valve for my toilet. It is not shutting off the water completely when the valve is closed. The valve itself is not leaking. What is the best way to repair this valve? 20220121_223417.jpg20220121_223350.jpg20220121_223338.jpg20220121_223514.jpg20220121_223343.jpg
 
Thank you for the quick reply Twowaxhack.
So I would need part number 34209 (the washer), and to get to the washer I would need to remove part number 35249 (the bonnet), correct?
opera_luRwgKp8KX.jpg
 
Here's a novel idea...why don't you just replace it? You can get all kinds of them out there (full turn, quarter turn) in all kinds of fittings (pipe thread, compression, "shark bite" or similar) and they won't break the bank. They run $7-$12 in chrome; a bit higher in brass or black. While you are at it, change the corroded escutcheon plate. Most of the stop valves today are ball style, not stem and gasket style.

I know and understand that the Kohler (you can still buy them new) runs around 10x the price of most others in chrome, but once you repair the one you have it will look the same. Meaning, the chrome finish is dulled and compromised. Anything new will brighten it up a bit.
 
It’s stainless finish or brushed nickel

That valve retails for around $100

I’d rather have a valve that’s serviceable. That Kohler valve will last literally a lifetime in quality water with service every 5-10 years, or less.

With our water quality it would go 20.
 
Last edited:
Here's a novel idea...why don't you just replace it? You can get all kinds of them out there (full turn, quarter turn) in all kinds of fittings (pipe thread, compression, "shark bite" or similar) and they won't break the bank. They run $7-$12 in chrome; a bit higher in brass or black. While you are at it, change the corroded escutcheon plate. Most of the stop valves today are ball style, not stem and gasket style.

I know and understand that the Kohler (you can still buy them new) runs around 10x the price of most others in chrome, but once you repair the one you have it will look the same. Meaning, the chrome finish is dulled and compromised. Anything new will brighten it up a bit.
I am a noob at this and this might be a stupid question, but how would I go about changing it?
 
It’s stainless finish or brushed nickel

I’d rather have a valve that’s serviceable. That Kohler valve will last literally a lifetime in quality water with service every 5-10 years, or less.

With our water quality it would go 20.

Come again? Last a lifetime? It did NOT last a lifetime which is why the poster is here! What's the big difference if your service is CHANGING a valve versus REPAIRING? If someone is paying for service, doesn't really matter now does it? Plumber is still at his service call plus minimum for this quick job. If you have to wait for parts from Kohler (doesn't matter if they are free or not) versus taking a reasonable quality valve replacement, I'd go for the replacement. But that's me. I'm guessing most plumbers have a selection of high quality stops on the truck?

I would just go with a high quality, all metal ¼ turn brass ball valve for a shutoff and be done with it.
 
I am a noob at this and this might be a stupid question, but how would I go about changing it?

You have to shut off the water to the valve, meaning probably the entire home unless you have a dedicated shutoff for this in the basement or crawl space or other accessible location.
Unscrew the old valve. See the exploded view.
Buy a new valve with matching features.
Replace.
 
You have to shut off the water to the valve, meaning probably the entire home unless you have a dedicated shutoff for this in the basement or crawl space or other accessible location.
Unscrew the old valve. See the exploded view.
Buy a new valve with matching features.
Replace.
Like shown here?:
 
Come again? Last a lifetime? It did NOT last a lifetime which is why the poster is here! What's the big difference if your service is CHANGING a valve versus REPAIRING? If someone is paying for service, doesn't really matter now does it? Plumber is still at his service call plus minimum for this quick job. If you have to wait for parts from Kohler (doesn't matter if they are free or not) versus taking a reasonable quality valve replacement, I'd go for the replacement. But that's me. I'm guessing most plumbers have a selection of high quality stops on the truck?

I would just go with a high quality, all metal ¼ turn brass ball valve for a shutoff and be done with it.

Washers don’t last a lifetime. And neither will a 1/4 turn fixture stop valve.

The difference is that I can repair my stop valve with packings and a Bibb washer.

Have you ever turned off and then back on 20 yr old 1/4 turn fixture stops ? It doesn’t always workout, they leak too.....
 
If it was me I might order pn: 35252 and replace the whole stem.
 
You have to shut off the water to the valve, meaning probably the entire home unless you have a dedicated shutoff for this in the basement or crawl space or other accessible location.
Unscrew the old valve. See the exploded view.
Buy a new valve with matching features.
Replace.
How do you unscrew the old valve without putting strain on the soldered joint in the wall? There is not enough pipe exposed to get a good grip on it when turning the valve.
 
In your 4th picture it looks like there are threads. Make sure it is threaded on and not soldered. If threaded
on you need to back up your pipe with one wrench and then unscrew the valve off counterclockwise .
 
Turns out the 1/2 inch nipple is too big ..does that mean that the pipe is 1/4 inch? How to I clean the inner threads in the wall that the 4 inch nipple screws into?20220123_133606.jpg20220123_133602.jpg
 

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