Help with new dishwasher hookup & fridge water line (Pics inside)

[Patrick Mulligan]

So I am trying to tackle a few plumbing projects myself, I would consider myself handy but def not a plumber by any means.

Item #1 is running line and drain for new dishwasher which will now be adjoining the sink base cabinet. It is being move just about 5' from where it originally was. For the hot water supply I was actually going to hook up to the copper line that was feeding the first d/w and run a flexible line (pex or braided) up through the floor to the new d/w space (see pics for old copper line). I was originally going to run the line off the kitchen hot supply under the sink but figured this would be cleaner and its already in place...



Item #2 is the drain for the new d/w...it originally drained via a pipe in wall, that runs into waste pipe in basement (see pics). I would prefer to not have to remove this pipe so was going to try and cap it somehow, and run drain line from new d/w to the sink drain via one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00838IS5U/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20



Item #3 is running a water line for the new fridge. Originally was going to run off the cold water line under sink, down through floor along basement ceiling and pop up over where fridge is (this would be at min. a 15'-20' line). However when I went in basement I noticed this pex stub which is right below where the fridge will be going (see pic). I had some plumbing work done a few years back and am thinking the plumber may have put this in specifically for running a water line to fridge at some point given its location and not sure why else it would be there. it would be like a 5' run from this to the fridge (with slack to move fridge in and out).



Was hoping to get thoughts on the above, if my decisions were going to be correct and what I might need supply wise to accomplish. Was originally going to use sharkbite products but with whats in place not sure that is necessary any more. I will be cutting the stubs down (see pics, they are way too high) and attaching new shark bite shut offs for the sink lines. Thank you for the time.

 

[Jamesplumbing06]

Ok here we go. Lol item 1. Yeah your good using old line as long as valve is accessible at any given 5 second notice. Braided line is fine too.
Item 2. You should cut pipe a little lower and install a fernco to adapt 1.5” pvc. Come up 6” and use a trap adapter on 1.5”pvc. Get a slip joint dishwasher tee and insert in trap adapter. On top of that tee you have to get a black mobile home air admittance valve. You will need about 4” of extra slip joint pipe without a “mating” end. Slip joint nut and ferrul will tighten up on aav. Put that on top of tee. Then on your dw stub out of tee. Connect a 5/8 dishwasher hose. Coming straight against wall at same height make a 6” loop for a trap and secure to wall. Plug factory drain into black tub on house side of 5/8 hose. Get you a 1/2 black roll pipe coupling to use for mating.
Item 3. Turn water off cut off cap and install a 1/2x 1/4 straight shut off. Pex or push fit(shark bite) not compression or glue cpvc( yeah I have seen it) then connect up and continue with your plan.
Last item. Use a cap till cabinets are set then install valves. This will keep you from drilling an enormous hole to fit valves thru cabinet floor. By hole I mean circular not all cut up with skil saw.

 

[Patrick Mulligan]

Thank you for the great reply, think I got 1 and 3 understood, number 2 is gonna take a few work/read throughs

In #2 I am not using that old drain pipe in the wall shown in pics 3 and 4 correct? Since I am moving the dishwasher location and that pipe will not be near it any longer? I was thinking I just cap that some how and start fresh at the new location.

 

[Jamesplumbing06]

O yeah ok I gotcha a fernco cap will give u a secure fit. If possible. cut it below wall before capping. Then use a dishwasher slip joint tee to fit drain in under kitchen cabinet.

 

[frodo]

is the kitchen sink and dishwasher next to each other in this new location?

Item #1 is running line and drain for new dishwasher which will now be adjoining the sink base cabinet. It is being move just about 5' from where it originally was. For the hot water supply I was actually going to hook up to the copper line that was feeding the first d/w and run a flexible line (pex or braided) up through the floor to the new d/w space (see pics for old copper line). I was originally going to run the line off the kitchen hot supply under the sink but figured this would be cleaner and its already in place...

1] If you do that, then the water shut off is down stairs and not next to the dishwasher
code issue, each fixture must have a shut off at the fixture
use 2 valves on the hot line under the kitchen sink
2] yes,use that to connect drain
3] bring the water line up behind the fridge and install a valve,
4] huh...their is no #4

I do not like shark bites, so I would say no, but it is what the cool kids are using this month

 

[Jamesplumbing06]

Not to argue. But from the service side. If you install a **** off valve behind fridge. Then install fridge and 200 lbs of food. Then a valve in basement. Same for dishwasher. Whichever has the better 5 second access to reach valve in a flooding worst case scenario. Shark bite has been on my truck for 18 years now. Grab 2 and a 1’ of pex. Take tubing cutters in pocket and flashlight in other. 1 trip 1 fix 5 minutes and done. Sometimes even under pressure to install emergency valve. Just not in dirt or directly contacting a water heater. Safer than sending a 1600 degree flame under a house that is dry and has lint webs just waiting to flash fire.