Float lever sticking & power to jet pump problem

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I took a short video inside the pump house to show the layout now.
View attachment pumphouseJune-4-2024.mp4
So, would wiring a float switch to the belt-driven pump be something that people here could give more info on or would I need to ask in an electrical forum?

Editing bc I'm really wanting to change the switch to fill the cistern. I know we discussed it in the past but I got overwhelmed and distracted. Now I'm back on it again trying to figure out a solution.

As a reminder, the pump is 230v & draws 6.1Amps. Since it has 2 hots it can't connect to the float switch the way a 115v one would. This is the float switch I'm thinking of getting: https://www.amazon.com/Float-Switch-Septic-System-Sump/dp/B0064BHEVM/
I've been watching Youtube videos and reading and trying to find what I woudl need to make it work and keep seeing it would need some sort of controller.

My friend just linked this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3KO7SY

Anyone familiar with this thing? Or how to wire it? Or if I would need anything else? Or what sort of box it would go in? Can it fit in a 1-gang weatherproof box?
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Someone on reddit told me that the float was not UL listed- so probably not safe for potable water and that the relay would probably burn up. So, I'm looking at other options. I'm also considering getting something to prevent the jet pump from pumping dry. Haven't had much luck with that though-- only seem to find lower voltage and amperage options. The jet pump draws over 16A when set to 115v. Only 8.1A at 230v. I just want something that makes it so the jet pump can't/won't turn on if the water level is too low.

As for the other pump, I *might* have found a solution but am not certain. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D2PYF4W6/
It is specifically for pumps and can handle up to 10A 240VAC. It comes with 3 sensors but it can work with 2. I could have it set to kick on at lower sensor and off at higher sensor.
There are two different options. The 01 version and 02 version. The 02 version can do 1 level control OR 2 level control. The 01 can only do 2 level control. Pretty sure the 2 level one tells a 2nd pump to kick on and "pump down", but I could be mistaken.
This shows the differences.
Any thoughts?
I heard back from the seller for the GRL8 switch and they recommended 02 version and that I would need a contactor as it only has ports for hot and neutral but not two hots. I see they also sell contactors and am trying to find the right one. The AI answering thing keeps pushing the 2P 40A version of this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JTWGT2L/ but it is inconsistent on whether it should be NO, NC, or both-- this is for the pump that would kick on when the float is down. My brain is not wanting to make sense of it right now.
It looks like the 40A would be able to fit 10AWG wire, but again, still can't figure out whether it needs to be open or closed.

Likewise, if I want to have the jet pump only able to power on when the water is high enough, would I need the same setup but wired differently?

Since they recommended the 02 I'm thinking it needs the 1 level control-- even though I'm not quite sure what that means. Does it look like having 2 levels mean that it 2nd one would pump down or something? Here's the official website for the products.
Automatic Modular Household Contactor
GRL8-02 Water Level Control with sensors

I'm really hoping to get this straightened out soon so I can get rid of the crappy setup I currently have.
Finally got ahold of well service people. It used to be owned by father and son and the son was the one who would come out. He wasn't able to come out himself but he now has people who work for him. Found out his father passed just before Thanksgiving last year. I was sorry to hear that. I knew he'd been battling cancer. I should have listened and not put in the check valve on the outlet side. It might have been ok if the pressure switch had been on the tank tee and not on the pump, but since it was preventing backflow to the pump it was not getting the right pressure to the switch. But it needed a check valve on the inlet side because the pump wouldn't run properly and maintain pressure without it. Water kept flowing back to the cistern.

As I mentioned in another thread, the sub panel with breakers came in very handy. They were able to turn stuff on and off instantly. The pressure gauge on the tank tee helped as they used that to check pressure while the switch was being tweaked. The new switch that we put on burned up. Not sure bc of the check valve issue or if it happened after the water sprayed everywhere when they had the cover off the switch and then they turned power back on while stuff was still wet. They said there were sparks. So, had to get a new pressure switch put on but they had one.

The spigot on the tank tee came in handy too.

Good thing I had a funnel and a bucket of siphoned water around as well. They had to prime the pump again.

Liquid level switch is still jamming. The rod will be down with the stop on the arm but the arm won't drop and close the connection to turn the pump on. Might be wearing out and need a new switch. The guys had never setup a high voltage pump with a float switch before though so they didn't know how to do that setup. They said they had done lower voltage pumps on sewage systems instead. So, no working with contactors and stuff.

I'll have to get pics of the current setup later. I plan to put more SS back in if the PVC leaks.