existing copper to PEX project - advice/guidance

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three_jeeps

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Over the last 3-4 years, I have had at least 7-8 pin holes develop in the 1/2" copper water pipes in the basement of my house (build 1964 so pipes are ~50 y.o.). It has gotten to the point that I need to replace the water pipes in as much as the house as I have reasonable access to. My house has a full, below grade basement, with 1/2" copper line water service coming in near the basement floor through the flow meter, then makes a run of about 25' to the water heater. Just before the water heater is a T that supplies the cold lines to the rest of the house. The cold line in the basement goes to the stationary tub, the kitchen sink (first floor), and to the first floor powder room, and a run to the second floor baths rooms (2). The hot water line follows parallel routing after exiting the hot water tank. All lines are 1/2" copper. Basement is heated/living area.

After doing some reading, I am pretty much decided on redoing the piping with PEX. While I learned to sweat fit copper 40 years ago as an apprentice, I changed fields and have rarely done copper pipe rework, only on emergency repair basis.

I have a few questions for the experts who do this for a living and I seek their advice.

1. Given that the ID of 1/2" PEX is slightly smaller than that of 1/2" copper, should I use 5/8" (3/4"?) PEX for the line after the flow meter and the rest of the lines in the basement, then use 1/2" for the runs to the 2nd floor? I currently don't have any water pressure or low flow issues.

2. I would like pointers to where I can get 'trade quality' PEX components and, more importantly, tools, e.g. crimper and rings. Good brand name mfg suggestions are appreciated - dont' want 3rd world knockoffs/big box products..I don't mind paying reasonable prices for good quality tools and materials.

3. I am strongly considering following the existing piping with PEX (using 'T's and elbows as necessary) as opposed to using a manifold and fanout to individual fixtures. Given the configuration of my basement, there doesn't seem to be a good location to mount a manifold. Is there any problem with this approach that I should be aware of? I do understand the convenience of shutting off individual lines at the manifold but there are shut off valves at each of the fixtures.

Advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you!
-John
 
I use 1/2" PEX to feed hot to a standard bathroom, and 3/4" cold. I use 1" PEX for the main feed line, until the branch for the water heater is taken off.

Personally, I have chosen Viega for all of my PEX pipe and fittings.
 
I use 1/2" PEX to feed hot to a standard bathroom, and 3/4" cold. I use 1" PEX for the main feed line, until the branch for the water heater is taken off.

Personally, I have chosen Viega for all of my PEX pipe and fittings.

Thank you! Just to confirm, the incoming line is 1/2" copper. So you are saying that you would convert this to 1" PEX for the main run in the basement, then branch off 1/2" line to the water heater?

Just curious, why 1/2" distribution hot lines to the bathroom and 3/4" for the distribution cold lines?

Do you think a manifold layout is the better way to go rather than replicating the existing main line and branch distribution scheme?

Thanks again
J
 
Not only is the ID of PEX pipe smaller than copper, the fittings slip inside of the pipe, which reduces the open area even more.

I know that sometimes you can get away with running 1/2" copper main into a house, but I wouldn't do it.

1/2" hot, because the chances of you using both the sink and the shower at the same time are pretty low, so the 1/2" hot will be sufficient. 3/4" cold, because it is quite common for the toilet tank to be refilling while you are washing your hands, 3/4" will ensure that you have plenty of volume so that there is not a large variance in pressure.

I prefer to run trunk and branch. That way, once you get hot water to a fixture in a bathroom, you have hot water to all of the fixtures in that bathroom. Plus it saves on pipe.
 
Not only is the ID of PEX pipe smaller than copper, the fittings slip inside of the pipe, which reduces the open area even more.

I know that sometimes you can get away with running 1/2" copper main into a house, but I wouldn't do it.

1/2" hot, because the chances of you using both the sink and the shower at the same time are pretty low, so the 1/2" hot will be sufficient. 3/4" cold, because it is quite common for the toilet tank to be refilling while you are washing your hands, 3/4" will ensure that you have plenty of volume so that there is not a large variance in pressure.

I prefer to run trunk and branch. That way, once you get hot water to a fixture in a bathroom, you have hot water to all of the fixtures in that bathroom. Plus it saves on pipe.

Thank you. OK, I thought the reason might be the simultaneous usage of hot and cold, with more cold taps open at the same time.

The service entrance line is 1/2" copper - I can't replace that. I'll follow your advice and convert the 1/2" line out of the meter to a 3/4" line and use the trunk n branch scheme.
 
Agree with phish in all areas. I'd use 1" for the main for sure. If it is 1/2" and no way to change after the meter then id still do 1". You will still get more water than running 1/2 or 3/4 pex
 
Not only is the ID of PEX pipe smaller than copper, the fittings slip inside of the pipe, which reduces the open area even more.

I know that sometimes you can get away with running 1/2" copper main into a house, but I wouldn't do it.

1/2" hot, because the chances of you using both the sink and the shower at the same time are pretty low, so the 1/2" hot will be sufficient. 3/4" cold, because it is quite common for the toilet tank to be refilling while you are washing your hands, 3/4" will ensure that you have plenty of volume so that there is not a large variance in pressure.

I prefer to run trunk and branch. That way, once you get hot water to a fixture in a bathroom, you have hot water to all of the fixtures in that bathroom
. Plus it saves on pipe.

...scribble...scribble... (adding factoids to notebook)

Why not run 3/4 hot alongside the cold, less cold water to move until hot water comes through?
 
...scribble...scribble... (adding factoids to notebook)

Why not run 3/4 hot alongside the cold, less cold water to move until hot water comes through?

You got it, brother. It won't maker a lot of difference on short runs, but you get out there 30 or 40 feet, and figure the difference in how much 1/2" holds vs 3/4", and then think about dumping that much water down the drain a couple of times as day, heating that water, it does add up. And you will also have to wait longer for hot water.
 
The size pipe really depends on supply needed. In residential you can do 1/2" but I always go line size for the water heater. Correct me if im wrong but I think all 50g water heaters are 3/4" inlet and outlet. As your tank size increases so does your inlet and outlet. In industrial jobs I have ran 1-1/4" line fairly commonly. When Supply and demand are greater the recovery time needs to be faster. I would run whatever the line size is on you water heater.
 
You got it, brother. It won't maker a lot of difference on short runs, but you get out there 30 or 40 feet, and figure the difference in how much 1/2" holds vs 3/4", and then think about dumping that much water down the drain a couple of times as day, heating that water, it does add up. And you will also have to wait longer for hot water.


circ line for any runs over 25'

2015-12-08_2323.jpg
 

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