Cycle stop valve

[Arod71]

Good morning, I have a well where I live and it seems to be pretty convoluted. It has a stop valve that is supposed to create back pressure to stop the pump from turning on and off as much,a 40/60 pressure switch and also a monitoring system that supposedly keeps the pressure at a certain setting and also shuts down in case of dry well etc... During a freeze we had last week the stop valve blew, being it is a 2"valve is about 700.00 just for the valve along with the labor to install. My question is do I actually need it if I have all the other fall safes in place? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[arctic bill]

I have a pump system that goes into a lake similar to your system. I have a foot valve at the beginning then the pump with an expansion tank and a pressure switch (40-53) psi . I do not have a valve after that.
I do have valves on all the fixtures .
If i want to work on something i just turn off the switch and open up a drain line to relieve the pressure.
The expansion tank smoothest out the pressure when the pump is running .

 

[Valveman]

If you have a 2" Cycle Stop Valve you must have a 50 GPM or larger pump? The Cycle Stop Valve is the device that keeps the pressure at a certain setting. You also may have a Cycle Sensor, which is designed to shut the pump off when the well is dry. Letting a Cycle Stop Valve freeze and burst is one of the only ways they cease to function. Even so, another $700 Cycle Stop Valve will work much better and be much less expensive than purchasing several big pressure tanks for up to $2000 just to keep that large of a pump cycling within minimum specs.

There are also parts available for the 2" Cycle Stop Valve. Usually freezing will just break the top cover, which is easily and inexpensively replaced.

https://cyclestopvalves.com/collections/valve-repair-parts
https://cyclestopvalves.com/collections/csv3b/products/csv3b2t-2-threaded-b-model-cycle-stop-valve

 

[Arod71]

If you have a 2" Cycle Stop Valve you must have a 50 GPM or larger pump? The Cycle Stop Valve is the device that keeps the pressure at a certain setting. You also may have a Cycle Sensor, which is designed to shut the pump off when the well is dry. Letting a Cycle Stop Valve freeze and burst is one of the only ways they cease to function. Even so, another $700 Cycle Stop Valve will work much better and be much less expensive than purchasing several big pressure tanks for up to $2000 just to keep that large of a pump cycling within minimum specs.

There are also parts available for the 2" Cycle Stop Valve. Usually freezing will just break the top cover, which is easily and inexpensively replaced.

https://cyclestopvalves.com/collections/valve-repair-parts
https://cyclestopvalves.com/collections/csv3b/products/csv3b2t-2-threaded-b-model-cycle-stop-valve

The part that actually blew is the pilot valve that's off to the side. The old style one that I have actually has little s.s. Screws that hold the valve together and it swelled so much it ripped the threads right out of the housing. I've been told that I don't really need it and that I could just bypass it and replace the pressure switch because I have an electrical control system mounted next to the disconnect that regulates the flow or lack of so I shouldn't need both. I'm leaning that way, hopefully it's good but,thank you both for the input, have a great day.

 

[Jeff Handy]

You also need to freeze proof everything to avoid future expensive trouble.
At least some kind of pump house with heat cables.

 

[Valveman]

What kind of "electrical control system" are you talking about?