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Looks like american standard but not 100% sure. Did he replace the seat & stem or just the stem ? You can remove the diverter stem (middle of the three handles) without turning off the water to your home. Take diverter and trim to a real plumbing supply store for a replacement. ( not the big box...

Water service should be a minimal 3/4'' from the meter to the home. Post pics of what you have.

Sounds like the Cartridge has too much lubricant on it which is causing the cartridge to slowly close when turned on. Turn the valve on (hot water only) let it run for 10 - 20 min to see if it will wash some of the lubericant away.

Take photos of tank inner parts as well as the pics you have to a real plumbing supply store ( Not the big box stores). I would do a major toilet rebuild. Replace the fill valve, Brass flush valve, spud, and offset flush ell ( or maybe straight flush ell). Make it a one time repair.

The vacuum breaker (BFP) set screw is design to breaker away when tighten. If you are handy with a drill drill it out or replace the hose bibb.

Looks like a Anti-Sweat Valve to keep the toilet tank from condensating. Have valve replaced to prevent any condensation issues or possible toilet damage from hot water.

Thanks for the CPVC heads up Phishfood. I am talking to other plumbing contractors in the area to ban together and put pressure on them to allow us to pipe to the exterior of the home. 1 out of 4 neighboring counties wants to be a D. Thanks for the feedback guys.

Your fill valve seal and/or flush valve is probably bad or need cleaning. Do a search on Geberit Fill valve, Geberit flush valve, or Geberit dual flush valve. Hope this help. Don't find many of those stateside.

We understand the indirect aspect . I see California UPC has something on w/h condensate drain. We are going off Florida 2010 IPC and don't have anything on it. The Head Inspector (in 1 county) tells me we do not have anything in our codes so plumb it to manufacturer spec. Manufacturer say...

Too much flux.... Someone may have used too much flux during installation. If so, this is just the beginning of your leaks.

Do you have a recir pump or using a small tank type water heater as a storage tank. If so, that could be the reason. I just had a pow wow with local inspectors about the hybrid water heater condensate drain. 3 out of 4 counties say its ok to plumb it to the exterior of the home like a a/c...

Good choices Mr david.... I have put many Zoeller pumps in (ejection & sump) over the years with good sucess. Never liked the smell when replacing ejection pumps, but I guess it beats cleaning out large commerical grease traps. I think they are the worst.

I'm not a water softener tech, But I have installed, removed, & Flushed many plumbing system due to water softener resin bed failure. If your softener is 20 years old you should have it replaced. I think a average life of a water softener is 10 - 15 years with 20 years on the high end.

Turn off the rec. pump when you turn off the water to the water heater

If the valve at the tub is a pressure balance valve the valve has to sense hot & cold water pressure to operate. If you have replaced 3 water heaters in 5 years you have a problem that needs to be address. Something is causing the premature failure and it's being over looked.

Sounds like the toilet is on hot water. If the toilet is between the tub and vanity a stop (shutoff valve) can be install on the side of the vanity. Then use a long supply line to connect the toilet. I only say this because you do not want to open walls.

That stem can fit many brand faucets. Look at the base of the spout front & back real closely for a name brand or take the stem to a real plumbing supply store and they should be able to match it with no problems. It might be Kohler

Just a bit of advice before closing the valve behind the walls. Your adapters don't seem to have thread sealant on them. I see the teflon tape but no sealant. Most plumbers uses tape and sealant especially on pressure pipe.

The inspector saw the ground rough & top out . The flange more than likely was installed during the trim out and the inspector did not see it. Have the plumber install a new flange with the bottom of the flange (the portion that sets on the finish floor) setting alittle over 1/4'' above the...

Why not go plastic ??? If you can't find one make a template and have a welder or machinist make a new one.