Search results

We do installs all the time and Sometimes need the old tanks pumped out. The way your guy did things is highly illegal. This below about sums it up. Edit: It sounds to me like the guy needs to have his license revoked if he just dumped raw sewage water on top of land out in the yard--...

As of right now, you can't have a well. The Harris and Galveston subsidence says you can't Have a well if city water is available. If a driller is caught drilling you a well he can face some nasty fines.

If the sand is that bad leaving the filter housing before the tank is a good idea. Just the housing NO element. If you have a see through filter housing, you will be able to see the sand building up and can empty it when it needs. Just my thoughts on it.

If the sand is a big problem, they do make a type of sediment remover. It works like your filter but without a filter. Leave the filter housing just take out the element. It will work like a settling tank.

If the filter is between the pump and tank take it out. The filter should go after it leaves the tank, that's if you really need the filter at all. From the sound of your post. I think the filter is your problem.

Welcome from Texas.

Been doin alright. Thought I would stop in and see how things were going. You just cant stay away from a great place like this..:)

Welcome. Good to see some more folks from Texas..:D

Ok lets start with this. The way it should be wired. 1. The main power comes from the breaker to the relay/contactor. 2. The power goes from the contactor to the pump. The timer is a low amp switch. That means you cant run the pump itself through it. It does have a small set of contactors...

Hi and welcome.. There are only 6 things that would stop the pump from working. Wire Timer Float Voltage Relay The pump it self. You know the pump works. Its getting voltage, because the pump does run. The wire is good, cause the pump runs. That leaves the relay or the timer. The timer can be...

If your cut in pressure is.....say, 30psi The pressure in the bladder tank should be 27psi. You can check this by turning off the pump, drain the pressure off the tank, then check the psi in the tank with a tire gauge.

I try to check in here from time to time. Dont get to as much as I like tho. Been putten in a lot of overtime.

The pump doesn't care where the tank is. That would not make any difference. The switch and the tank are the ones that need to stay together. {As far as water hammer is concerned)

First off, your driller is not a well driller. That will make a big difference when it come time to develop the well. There is a lot more to a well than just digging a hole in the ground. Drilling in large sand and gravel needs to be done with a mud rotary rig. Without mixing mud to hold...

Do you have a tank and pressure switch?

Good to be back. Been kinda buzzy round here lately. Havent had much time to play on line.

I know there are a few jeep folks on here, so I thought I would share a pic of my 95 wrangler. Ripped out the 4 banger, and dropped in a 350 Chevy:D with a 700r4 and 241 trans case, with 36" super swampers.

The distance from the house doesn't mean much. I have seen them IN the house. Not a real smart move on their part, but hey its their well.. The septic tank is another story. The minimum distance I have seen in any law is 50'. That is with a fully cemented well, from top to bottom. Not sure what...

It sounds like the tank may be waterlogged. If its a bladder tank check the air in the tank. It should be 2 to 3 psi less that the pressure switch cut on pressure. if its not a bladder tank, drain the tank dry, that will give it a fresh start. Also check the line going to the pressure switch as...

It is a odd round but is amazingly accurate. I have been wanting to find one of them for a while. Nice little piece there.