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I dont know about other places... but here in Illinois just because you have tree roots dose not mean the clay tile is broken.if the line is rodded or jet rodded proporly you can get 3-5 years out of it maybe more. I agree with Pipelining, someone who knows what they are doing with a jet rodder...

i would use a long sweep 90 and not worry about it not having pitch as long as it is not back pitched. You allways make your fittings level and pitch your pipe but on such a short run not much you can do when you are comming into the branch of a tee like that. You could also do what johnjh20...

looks like its roughed for a right hand tub, toilet, and a lav sink. sometimes the room is wider than 5 feet so at the back of the tub there would be a void space that will have to b framed out to create a 5 foot enclosure for the tub. this may b why the vent is so far from the wall, it may be...

almost looks like grohe cartridges but i cant tell for sure.

the first piture is a 3/8 compression coupling. with the nuts loosened and pulled away just give the copper tubing a shake and the lines will come out of the coupling. same withe the valve side.

you can make a connection between galvi and copper with a dielectric union or a brass nipple between the two.

i have installed a bunch of Rinnai tank less heaters and they come in original packaging with installation and owners manuals. yes the units will have some water in them but never have i seen one with old Teflon tape. sounds like they maybe pulling a fast one.dosent mean the unit is no good...

i assume that if this is the basement and you are on septic that this floor drain goes to a ejector pit and gets pumped up to the sewer. if there is no bathroom down there than you may not get a sewer smell from your floor drain, and you could just leave it be. OR you could break open the floor...

you could install a electric anode, it wont react with the water.

or you could just install a 40 gallon water heater in the storage room, looks like there is plenty of room and will be alot less demanding on the gas supply,and way cheaper. do you have a pool heater? if so the gas line may not be able to support both a ttankless wh and a pool heater. only way...

i def would not remove the screws from the flange and atempt to pull the flange to the toilet with the toilet bolts.i bet there are no screws and the flange wont budge, looks to be a lead joint. if it dose move then it needs to be replaced or at least new oakum and pour new joint, and you can...

you guys may think it sounds crazy but i have found that a sawzal and a cast iorn blade work the best to cut out tile. i tryed it on a job replacing a three handle tub shower valve with a single lever, also needed a remodle plate, anyway couldent find my dremmel and dident want togo back to the...

yeah, the barrel is smaller and i have a extension kit on my truck for the (standard) valve. i will get the part number for you later today. you may not need it, buy the trim, install it, if the handle has enough room to turn on then shut completely off when you push it in then you don't need it.

if it were my home i would get into the wall and secure it properly, unless you have back to back tub-shower or some other reason you cant or dont want to open some drywall. these other methods may work but doing it right will work. good luck

sorry about the hole location, slow drip is right 2 and 7, however you CAN use any trim kit for a moentrol on either valve. just identify new or old style but the conversion kit if needed and install new trim. here is a link that will help. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) Regarding Moen Faucets

oh, and you can use any almost any moen trim that is for a moen-trol valve. if it is the old style valve you would have two screw holes on the bottom of the valve to secure the face plate. if it is new style you will have the holes at 10 oclock and five oclock positions. moen sells a conversion...

looks like it's too far in the wall, you might need a extension kit for it too.

i agree with cad, in my area we can have a dead end up to two feet long and not have to worrie about growing anything because you will get circulation at that lenght.

dosent sound like it, if the wall behind the shower valve is just drywall you could cut an access and secure the piping. most big box stores sell paint-able plastic access panels that just snap in. i would get one first then cut your hole to make sure it will cover.