Unscrewing corroded nipple from sanitary tee

Trying to crank it off but no luck. Don't want mess up the rest of the dwv. Is there thread breaker you guys recommend? Or propane torch?


On a separate note when I thread on the new nipples do I need to use plumbers putty or plumbers tape?

Thanks

Torch it up I wouldn't recommend using plumber's putty I would use pipe dope

I would use Rectorseal #5, but what do I know?

By using the propane torch, will I damage the rubber inside the no-hub couplings connecting the santee to the drain and vent?

Undo the metal band and move the rubber out of the way if you're worried about it

voletl said:

Undo the metal band and move the rubber out of the way if you're worried about it

Click to expand...

Can't it's a two way sanitary tee.

Unband it. Roll the rubber back on both sides. Wrap a wet rag on the rubber couplings and heat the nipple, not the Santee.

Yup I'll give that a shot Bob.

I'm thinking of torching the outside with MAP and throwing ice cubes in the nipple. This will cause the santee to expand and the nipple to contract. In theory at least.

Add another pipe wrench the opposite way, then add an extension for more leverage. Way easier than removing the rubber parts.

Have you seen the new Milwaukee pipe wrench with cheater bars built in?

Yes I have. Pretty pricey and my 2' long, 2" diameter gal. pipe works just fine.

I have not had much success removing a steel nipple from a cast fitting
Brass nipples, yes. Here is what I have seen. The steel pretty much fuses with the cast.

I have a couple of threads here on how to remove brass and dwv solder rings.
Then I clean the threads with a tap. but the steel nipples , even if you slice and peel,
the threads in the fitting are usually to far gone to even re-tap them.

Try this link. How to remove a DWV trap arm

There is another link within that of another member with a steel nipple.

What does the other side of that double fixture tee connect to?

It would be a lot easier just to replace the tee. I would screw plastic into the fitting if you get the nipple out.

Mr David I'm considering cutting the steel nipple and then connecting it to another steel nipple with no hub coupling. Does that work?

I tried heating and icing, no luck.

Mr_David said:

I have not had much success removing a steel nipple. .... The steel pretty much fuses with the cast.



but the steel nipples , even if you slice and peel,

the threads in the fitting are usually to far gone to even re-tap them.





What does the other side of that double fixture tee connect to?



It would be a lot easier just to replace the tee. I would screw plastic into the fitting if you get the nipple out.

Click to expand...

I have two bathroom sink drains with corroded nipples. On one of the drains the the tee connects to a bathroom in an adjacent unit. It's connected with a threaded elbow.
Surprised no water has rushed into my apartment. I think the tenant is on vacation.

The second tee is only connected to my drain. So I could replace with a new tee and brass ( best material choice??).

I watched the video of you cutting out a notch on a nipple. I have a sawzall with the proper blade for cutting cast iron. I am tempted to try his technique on the second tee which is replaceable.

The first tee (two way) I'm a bit afraid to mess things up. Leaning toward cutting off 2" and connecting a short nipple with a no hub coupling.

Thoughts?

Pics

Cut it off and use a Mission or Tyler coupling, Not a no hub coupling.