Cooper deburring question

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jakester

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Question, how do you guys deburr copper pipes in tight spaces? I wanted to install spark bite 1/4 turn valves in my vanity, I cut my stub out and went to deburr the copper pipe with the shark bite deburring tool like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-Safe-Seal-Depth-and-Pipe-Deburring-Tool-U702A/100638148 but my pipe is to close to the wall and the deburr tool only goes about 1/2 around the pipe and deburrs a part of the pipe. I don't feeling comfortable using a shark bite valve with a 1/2 deburred pipe. How can I deburr it all the way around?
 
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I can smooth it out with sandpaper but since I used the shark bite dedurring tool it beveled half the edge of the pipe and I am afraid that if half the pipe edge is beveled and the other half isn't the o-ring on the shark bite might not have a tight connection and leak or am I overthinking this?
 
That makes sense. Is it bad practice to leave the plastic insert on push connect / sharkbite fittings when installing on copper pipes?
 
Sorry I wasn't questioning the picture you attached. If i'm not mistaking all sharkbite fittings come with a plastic insert sleeve inside them which is needed when installing the fittings on PEX but are there any cons if the sleeve isn't removed when installing on copper?
 
Of course the purpose of the inserts is to strengthen the walls of the plastic tubing, whereas copper won't require that.
As far as cons, I would think it would unnecessarily reducing the ID of the pipe.
I've never used Sharkbite or PEX.
With the ID of copper pipe being larger than the ID of PEX tubing, does an insert fit snugly inside a copper pipe?

EDIT: When I googled it, I found this. "The PEX stiffener does not need to be removed for Copper".
 
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Last night I did use a brush like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-4-in-1-Fitting-Brush-80-717-111/204258915 on the inside and outside of the copper pipe, would that be an issue for sharkbite? After I brushed the pipe installed sharkbite end caps/plugs after words and didn't see any leaks.

End caps will be on for a day or two until I get the valves installed.
Should be no problem!
That brush you referenced is for cleaning the copper pipe in preparation for soldering. So it's a good cleaning and should have no negative effects on the Sharkbite. May even improve the sealing surface at the o-ring location.
EDIT: The male end of that brush is typically used for the female ends of soldering fittings. No need to clean the interior of the pipe for soldering purposes. Just an FYI.
 
Years ago when shark bite fittings came out I called them and they told me not to use the stiffiner on copper. So whenever I
absoluetly HAVE TO USE a sharkbite that's the way I do it. Do you have room enough on your copper to put a 5/8" x 3/8"compression
valve on. I would guess that if you have enough room for a sharkbite to fit then a compression valve would work. Just a suggestion.
 
I agree with Tom.
Use compression connections if you can.
Sharkbite connections will rotate, which is usually a very annoying thing for a valve that needs to be twisted to operate.
 
Years ago when shark bite fittings came out I called them and they told me not to use the stiffiner on copper. So whenever I
absoluetly HAVE TO USE a sharkbite that's the way I do it. Do you have room enough on your copper to put a 5/8" x 3/8"compression
valve on. I would guess that if you have enough room for a sharkbite to fit then a compression valve would work. Just a suggestion.

I figured if it wasn't a big deal I would just leave the plastic sleeves in because I didn't want to risk damaging the o-ring or the metal teeth on the sharkbite while removing the sleeve.
 

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