Draining for winter

Have a house that I want to drain so I can leave for the winter. Never had trouble in the past but now I've had a new bath vanity faucet installed. A Delta that has a myriad of plastic tubing looping around to the spout from the two valves. Before these upgrades I just opened the valve at the pressure tank, opened the faucets, antifreezed the traps and left for the season. A few other spots where pex was used, is impossible to pitch correctly. The plumber said there is nothing he can do except charge $500 to flush everything with antifreeze. Any suggestions to do something myself? Or would it be easier to replace the pex with cu, and the faucet with something else?

Being from Chicago I have "winterized" hundreds of homes.
After shutting the water off at the street..
I would hook up a compressor to a cold water faucet (hose bib without vacuum break, laundry hook-up, even the water heater drain after draining it), let it build some pressure (never over 75 psi). The water heater acts like a big air tank . Go and open the faucets, starting with the highest one until you get air coming out. Close them and go to the next one. Don't forget the toilets, dishwasher, washing machine, water softener, outside spigots and any other that use water.
You can use regular antifreeze in toilets and sink traps, but recommend RV antifreeze for dishwasher (the seals should be kept wet)
This is just a quick guide, but just some of my "tricks of the trade."

this that seem to have been overlooked

unhook the ice maker and pull the filter

disconnect the dishwasher water valve connection under the front panel of the dishwasher

disconnect the hot /cold lines from the washing machine

turn on all faucets

pour a 1/4 cup of anti freeze into each drain [p-trap]

Thanks, I guess I'm all set, no ice maker and no dish washer, one floor one bath. Just have to make up a connection from a compressor to a faucet.

We winterize 40 to fifty buildings every fall at work. We install a tee with a valve, pressure gauge, and air chuck on the cold water feed to the water heater.

To drain the system, we set the compressor regulator to the pressure the system is at. That way the water tank, is hydrotested to the pressure we are going to charge it to.

Turn off the water to the building, then pressurize the system with the air compressor.

With the house pressurized, hook a garden hose to the drain on the hot water heater, turn off the water heater, and open the drain valve. Once the water heater drains out, it becomes a secondary air tank for the system as you drain the rest of the system.

While the hot water heater is draining, remove teh aerators, and shower heads. Drain the hot water starting at the furthest point, and run every faucet until the there is nothing but air coming out. Do this twice.

then do the cold side, same thing two cycles until all you get out is air.

Then put RV antifreeze into all of the traps. Pour a quart of antifreeze into the overflow tube of the toilet, and another quart down the flush passage below the flapper.

This should have you ready for winter.