Replace or adjust this toilet tank assembly?

I've adjusted the chain and cleaned the flapper. That fixed the problem of running water from occurring very frequently. However, two things continue to occur very irregularly.

1. Water will start to dribble from the filler tube into the vertical receiver tube well after the toilet has been flushed and water has stopped filling/running. When I catch it, flushing again generally resolves the problem. There is no 'slack' in the lever so jiggling the lever is not an option.

2. More rarely and as of the last couple of months, after flushing the tank will emit a sound like a suction (sort of). I've never heard this sound before from a toilet but it may very well be due to the type of flush assembly.

Are these indications that the assembly needs to be replaced?

Mark

Check your water pressure.
You can get a gauge at most hardware stores that screw on to a hose bib. $10
anything over 80 psi is excessive.
Ideal 50- 65 psi
You can replace the diaphragm (400A) inside the top cap of the fill valve.$3
turn off water, lift float arm, turn cap off. Supper easy.
get rid of the chlorine tablet in the tank.

The house is on well water. The pressure at the jet pump, with a load, is 54 lbs. The pressure in the house should be a bit less coming off the pressure tank.

I'll check and see if HD has the diaphragm. My guess is that'll want to sell more than a diaphragm.

Mark

The thing to remember about FluidMaster ballcocks is to lift the float arm before turning the very top part 1/8 to 1/4 turn counter clockwise. Then you will see the valve seat. Black rubber about the size of a quarter.
DON'T FORGET TO TURN OFF THE WATER FIRST!! (Unless you were planning on washing the ceiling! LOL)

Some fluid masters have a flow restricter in that main tube that comes up for fill valve. It really is more effective to just replace fill valve. $14. On occasion just the seal doesn’t work. So that rare occasion , to me, trumps ever trying it again.

I came across several Fluidmaster videos (not even knowing that I had Fluidmaster!). One of the videos describes that top part being removed and shows (and says to be sure and) the guy lifting the float arm.

I'll give that a try this morning.

Mr_David said:

get rid of the chlorine tablet in the tank.

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What's the problem with having the chlorine tablet in the tank?

it rodes away the rubber washers,it clogs youre jets,it burns youre ass if you have a sensitive culo lol

markg2 said:

What's the problem with having the chlorine tablet in the tank?

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The chlorine will eat the rubber washers on the tank bolts, and the flush valve. Fluidmaster makes a nifty chlorine system, “Flush n Sparkle”, which feeds the chlorine solution into the bowl through the overflow tube, which means it doesn’t contact anything in the bowl that it could damage.

They also make a version which is septic friendly, and injects enzymes, and bacteria every flush. Not sure how that would keep the bowl sparkling, but I’m thinking seriously of installing them on some of the buildings I manage.

Just a side point ....
I miss a tank where I can use a fluidmaster. I’ve always used them since I found out about them in a plumbing supply I used to work in in Brooklyn back in the ‘70’s. The tank I have now has a contraption that can’t be replaced with a fluidmaster.
There ! My gripe is over

Do you have a one piece toilet?? A lot of them take a special ball cock that fits that tank only.

markg2 said:

What's the problem with having the chlorine tablet in the tank?

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The rubber deteriorates like this one

You are talking about $12 worth of parts. Postpone that vacation and go for it my man!