stainless pex crimp fittings ?

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I have used the copper crimp rings with brass fittings and plastic fittings so far no problems, years ago there was an issue with zurn fittings I won't buy them but I think that is settled
 
Geofd said:
I have used the copper crimp rings with brass fittings and plastic fittings so far no problems, years ago there was an issue with zurn fittings I won't buy them but I think that is settled
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The crimp rings don't touch (or hopefully come within 1/8-1/4" of the fittings. I wasn't clear. I meant, if for example, what if I screw a stainless-steel male adapter into a brass pressure relief valve (with FNPT threads).
 
Without going down the rabbit hole with this. Here goes.

Crimp fittings reduce the Internal diameter of the relief line smaller than the 3/4” outlet of the relief valve.

So while pex can be used, you must use fittings at maintain the 3/4” ID., that would be the expansion type fittings with PEXa.

That said, some jurisdictions allow pex with insert fittings even though it reduces the ID of the relief valve opening.

I typically use 3/4” cpvc but have used pex insert where it was legal. It works.
 
Stainless and brass play very well together in a plumbing context.
 
Twowaxhack said:
Without going down the rabbit hole with this. Here goes.
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I'm comfortable getting into the weeds with the numbers ...

I can't even find a spec for I.D. of male NPT - that's what would be coming out of the relief valve. (This is the part: https://www.mtncom.net/store-files/spec-sheets/Wilkins/Regulators/Model 70.pdf). I plan to use 1" pex, which has ID = 0.875". Which is greater than the 3/4" PVC there now (0.804"). Sure the male adapter crimp fitting will be a bit less; I can't find a spec on crimp fitting ID either, but just measured 0.700" ID on a 1" brass one. So it's equivalent to an extra couple feet in the main feed (from that pressure valve to where it starts branching, which is 30-40ft total, which is why I'm going with 1" pex).

Are you saying the fact that that constriction would be right after the pressure valve is an issue ? The equivalent length is the same no matter where it is in the main line. Or are you saying that somehow having the constriction right there keeps the valve from functioning properly ?
 
The outlet of a typical relief valve for a residential water heater is 3/4”.

At no point can the relief piping be restricted less than .75” internal diameter.

It’s really that simple.
 
I'm not talking about the T&P valve on a water heater (even though that's what I was discussing in another thread). I'm talking about this unit:

https://www.mtncom.net/store-files/spec-sheets/Wilkins/Regulators/Model 70.pdf
... which is immediately after the main shut off valve after the water line comes up into the basement from underground (and it's buried from there to the shutoff valve at the street).

This community has VERY great elevation changes. I'm guessing the incoming water pressure might be extremely high, and this valve regulates in down to 50psi or so.
 
RustyShackleford said:
I'm not talking about the T&P valve on a water heater (even though that's what I was discussing in another thread). I'm talking about this unit:

https://www.mtncom.net/store-files/spec-sheets/Wilkins/Regulators/Model 70.pdf
... which is immediately after the main shut off valve after the water line comes up into the basement from underground (and it's buried from there to the shutoff valve at the street).

This community has VERY great elevation changes. I'm guessing the incoming water pressure might be extremely high, and this valve regulates in down to 50psi or so.
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Use whatever you want on that .
 
That is a pressure reducing valve, not a T&P which is a temperature and pressure relief valve.
The outlet and piping of a T&P valve may not be reduced and must be a material rated for hot water. PVC is not rated for hot water, CPVC is.
 
RustyShackleford said:
The crimp rings don't touch (or hopefully come within 1/8-1/4" of the fittings. I wasn't clear. I meant, if for example, what if I screw a stainless-steel male adapter into a brass pressure relief valve (with FNPT threads).
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Here you say “ pressure relief valve “

You meant to say “ pressure reducing valve “

They are different. That’s why you got unexpected answers.
 
Got it, thanks. Anyhow, I've got to screw a male adapter into the outpout of the pressure reducing valve, and since the valve is brass, I'm thinking there could be a galvanic corrosion issue if the male adapter is stainless. But I'll use stainless for everything else.
 
RustyShackleford said:
Got it, thanks. Anyhow, I've got to screw a male adapter into the outpout of the pressure reducing valve, and since the valve is brass, I'm thinking there could be a galvanic corrosion issue if the male adapter is stainless. But I'll use stainless for everything else.
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It wouldn’t be but you can use whatever you’d like.
 
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