Rough in plumbing for bathroom

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Twowaxhack said:
Looks good to me. 👍
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My son had an interesting question tonight. Since we are no longer tying the sink drain into the 3" toilet drain, is the toilet still vented via the main stack vent. Not the best picture but I think you have a good feel by now for what we are doing.
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Thanks
 
Yes, that is fine. IPC allows unlimited distance to the toilet vent, and the toilet vent in this design is still the sink sanitee wet vented the few inches of the sanitee, then the 2" dry vent through the roof.
 
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MicEd69 said:
Yes, that is fine. IPC allows unlimited distance to the toilet vent, and the toilet vent in this design is still the sink sanitee wet vented the few inches of the sanitee, then the 2" dry vent through the roof.
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We removed the sink drain from this trunk line. Are you referring to the stacked sanitee from the shower that goes into the main vent?
Thanks
 

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Dan82564 said:
We removed the sink drain from this trunk line. Are you referring to the stacked sanitee from the shower that goes into the main vent?
Thanks
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Oops, I meant to say, "the toilet vent in this design is the SHOWER sanitee wet vented the few inches of the sanitee, then the 2" dry vent through the roof."
 
I'm learning a lot on this forum. (thanks everyone) Im not sure how the plumbing even functioned the way it was before we decided to replace it all. We found numerous leaks in the old cast iron drains so decided to yank it all out and replace. The old plumbing only had 1 vent right after the toilet drain. There was a T going into the main drain where we now have a 90. Off the T was a 2" vent that went to the roof. Neither the sink or the shower was vented. ??
 
I'm assuming you meant, "The old plumbing only had 1 vent right BEFORE the toilet drain." And that it was the "T going into the main drain where we now have a 90" that you mentioned earlier that Twowaxhack suggested you remove.??

I'm not sure when your old plumbing was installed, or if it was installed by a plumber, or if any code was followed. But from what you described that vent was an upstream vent for the toilet. And I assume the "tee" was really a Combo Wye & 1/8 Bend.
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Plumbing fittings can be quite confusing until you understand the lingo. The Combo Wye & 1/8 Bend directs the wastes towards the main drain line. A "tee" would allow solids to build up cause pluggage issues.

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Now when the shower and sink were being used, that exiting vent would also provide venting for those fixtures. The problem is that they were "wet vented" by the toilet upstream vent which isn't allowed, and theoretically can result in siphoning the traps of the shower and sink, especially should that vent become plugged or restricted upstream of the toilet.

In practice, a toilet flushing never fully fills the main drain line for any appreciable length, and therefor didn't provide enough suction to pull the shower and sink traps dry.

So that's how it was working before, but it was not to code and could have caused issues. Your setup now looks good.
 
ESTIMATOR said:
You must follow local/state plumbing codes for venting fixtures. In most cases the minimum for water closets is 2"
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Absolutely! Pennsylvania uses the International Plumbing Code, but local AHJs can impose stricter codes. IPC says a water closet minimum vent size is 1 1/2" if dry, and a size larger if wet. So, the design Dan82564 has meets the IPC. But if he has a permit and has to get it inspected, he should check with his local government and verify that IPC in his jurisdiction has not been modified for their community. But most cities do not allow the homeowner to perform their own plumbing, so either Dan82564 is not in a city, or is performing this work on the QT. In any case, a 1 1/2" vent is adequate and per IPC, the governing code of the state of Pennsylvania.
 
I have a 2” minimum vent size on toilets. But 1.5” will be fine if the code allows it and it appears it does.

Our city will sell a homeowner a permit but it must be a home they occupy to do their own plumbing. They ask a few questions and if you pass their lil verbal then they sell the permit.

They won’t tell you how to do the work and they are a lil stricter on the homeowner.
 
Our city also issues a permit for the homeowner, I'm guessing they will be stricter with me. They did tell me that I needed to be sure to be up to current code. Thanks to all of your help I think we should pass. It's also a breath of fresh air to know the system will function properly.
 
Twowaxhack said:
Looks good to me. 👍
Click to expand...
We finally got the toilet and shower hooked up, drain and water lines. We have a problem with the toilet. The water in the bowl is slowly going down. We noticed when we get there in the morning the bowl is empty. I checked after flushing- Marked the water level and an hour later it was about 1" lower. I googled this and the most common response was a clogged vent. I didn't think that was likely since it was just recently plumbed but thought I'd confirm. I went to the Attic (we didnt run the vent out the roof yet) and put a water hose in it turned it on and let it run for over 5 mins. I'm guessing since it didnt fill up and overflow that the vent wasn't plugged. My son watched the water in the bowl while I turned water to vent on again. He said there was water movement in the bowl for a few seconds but then after that nothing. We then turned on the shower and ran for a few minutes, no water movement in bowl. We reflushed and confirmed the water level slowly would get lower. Any ideas?? Thanks
 
Run a closet auger through the bowl a few times.

Is this a new toilet ?
 
Dan82564, you said, "We noticed when we get there in the morning the bowl is empty." Since you said "we", am I understanding that the house is not occupied during this renovation?

If that is correct, the only way for a toilet to slowly drain when no other fixtures are being used is a bad toilet. A toilet is shaped such that it provides the water seal to the sewer. If you take a toilet and sit it on the floor with no connection to the sewer, you can pour water in it until it starts coming out from under the toilet, and that level will remain constant until the water evaporates. And connecting a toilet to the sewer, when nothing else is flowing into the sewer from another fixture, is the same as the toilet sitting on the floor. High winds across the vent can cause ripples, but I've never heard of it sucking the water out a little at a time. And as you haven't connected it to the exterior of the house, that cannot be an issue.

I've seen brand new toilets with holes in the clay "casting", but never in that area. However, that doesn't mean they can't be there, or perhaps a crack in the porcelain has occurred. I would pull the toilet and inspect the underside for any holes or cracks. I would also set it on some sawhorses and fill it with water until it comes out the bottom and let it sit there and see if the water drips out.
 
Dan82564 said:
The toilet flushes fine. Doesn't back up at all. Isn't a closet auger used when the toilet is plugged? Thanks
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Sometimes things can be in the toilet that will wick water out of the bowl but not cause obstruction.

Like a baby wipe that’s stuck half in and out of the trap. Or even dental floss can wick water out of the bowl.

It’s worth a shot.

It could be a defective toilet. I’d try an auger before anything else. Start easy then escalate the job as needed.
 
MicEd69 said:
Dan82564, you said, "We noticed when we get there in the morning the bowl is empty." Since you said "we", am I understanding that the house is not occupied during this renovation?

If that is correct, the only way for a toilet to slowly drain when no other fixtures are being used is a bad toilet. A toilet is shaped such that it provides the water seal to the sewer. If you take a toilet and sit it on the floor with no connection to the sewer, you can pour water in it until it starts coming out from under the toilet, and that level will remain constant until the water evaporates. And connecting a toilet to the sewer, when nothing else is flowing into the sewer from another fixture, is the same as the toilet sitting on the floor. High winds across the vent can cause ripples, but I've never heard of it sucking the water out a little at a time. And as you haven't connected it to the exterior of the house, that cannot be an issue.

I've seen brand new toilets with holes in the clay "casting", but never in that area. However, that doesn't mean they can't be there, or perhaps a crack in the porcelain has occurred. I would pull the toilet and inspect the underside for any holes or cracks. I would also set it on some sawhorses and fill it with water until it comes out the bottom and let it sit there and see if the water drips out.
Click to expand...
My son purchased a fixer upper, no one is living in the house. At first we thought the toilet was getting siphoned after flushing. If it were I'd think it would drain faster or siphon as soon as we flush. This drains very slow (hours to empty).
We can pull the toilet and put it on horses as you suggested. Thanks
 
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