Sharkbite Fittings do NOT (quite) allow specified insertion depth

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Ed McCauley

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I've been using 1/2" Sharkbite fittings for a number of years now, and they work well for temporary fixes, setup, etc. However, they simply do not allow the pipe to be inserted the full 15/16ths of an inch that the chart specifies for a 1/2" copper pipe or PEX.

I don't have the Sharkbite deburring tool that can also be used to mark the insertion depth, but it should match the 15/16ths inch spec. Following insertion, the Demo videos clearly show the deburring tool depth mark (on the pipe) aligned at the top of the release collar. According to Sharkbite, their PEX pipe is marked at 1" intervals to allow proper insertion. Again, the demo videos show the pipe (easily) inserted to the 1" mark.

At the local Lowe's, I asked the guy in the plumbing department about this. We tried 10 1/2" Sharkbite fittings. All inserted to a 3/4" depth, and no reasonable amount of pressure allowed a deeper insertion. OK, a quarter of an inch isn't a whole lot of difference, but when the manufacturer states insertion depth in 16ths of an inch, the tolerance should be closer to a 1/16 of an inch, than to a 1/4 inch.

Most folks probably think I'm being too fussy here, but when the insurance guy turns down my claim for water damage because I "didn't follow the manufacturer's specs" I'm not going to be too happy about that 1/4".
 
I’m going out to my shop and do a couple tests. I’ll report back in a little while.
 
Are you sure your not coming up against the nylon stiffener, on the inside?

Also, I have had trouble getting pex to seat fully in SharkBite fittings if the edges of the PEX weren’t reamed. My theory is that it is catching on the sharp edge. I bought reamers for the maintenance techs, and taught them to ream and mark their PEX-SharkBite fittings. It makes my inspections much easier.
 
I too have awkward struggles with Sharkbites like this. I try not to use them at my house unless it's exposed plumbing in the garage. What I can't understand about them is how difficult it is for me to move them by depressing the inner plastic ring. I even purchased the metal tongs looking pliers made for sharkbites and even when I squeeze down on the inner plastic compressing ring, I have extreme difficulty in sliding the sharkbite up or down. I wonder if this is the problem you mean? They are so difficult to use in my opinion at least for repairing straight pieces of copper pipe. Maybe using the terminal type sharkbite fittings is way, way easier and that is what's user friendly about them? They are supposed to be user friendly but I find them difficult to use. Especially since you have to deburr copper pipe perfectly in order to use a sharkbite or the rubber seals inside will get torn up and leak. They are NOT user friendly in my opinion. There is more room for error in soldering copper pipe since the tiniest little burr of copper pipe will ruin the rubber seal of a sharkbite.
 
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Nicely done! But did you check the calibration of that Milwaukee tape before proceeding? As we all know they must be dead-on balls accurate.

On a serious note, are there different manufacturers of "Sharkbite"-type fittings that could differ in their manufacturing tolerances?
 
I don't have the Sharkbite deburring tool that can also be used to mark the insertion depth

Why not? It's an essential tool that trims the end of tubing (copper or PEX). It's a tool that costs less than $12.00. The first few times I used Sharkbite or equivalent push fittings (Blue Hawk, etc.) I had some success and some failure. Once I got the tool, all were perfect. I treat the end of copper (not necessary on PEX of course) as if it would be soldered by burnishing with steel wool. Insert into the tool, de-burr and add bevel. The addition of the bevel is important as that's what takes the tube gently into the O-Ring inside. Take a Sharpie and mark the edge. Do that all the time and you won't have failures...

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-Safe-Seal-Depth-and-Pipe-Deburring-Tool-U702A/100638148
All that being said, I still don't feel comfortable with push fittings in a wall, but all the PEX stuff is crimp/push and you just have to accept it I guess...
 
I wouldn’t expect long term issues with fittings that are done correctly. Which includes chamfering the edges of the tubing, they will last for years.

Where I would expect trouble is folks pushing in unreamed tubing. That may damage or dislodge the o-ring which is the only seal, and cause leaks. A whole lot of folks are installing them without the chamfers which the direction do call for. And, I think that there will be issues with joints made with out the chamfers, and the ones with chamfers will last for 20 plus years without issue..
 
...includes chamfering the edges of the tubing...I would expect trouble is folks pushing in unreamed tubing...may damage or dislodge the o-ring which is the only seal, and cause leaks...lot of folks are installing them without the chamfers...

Yes, so buy the $12 tool and do it properly.
 
As an aside. In order for a device to be properly installed under the code it must be installed per the manufacturers installation instructions. For SharkBites that includes chamfered and marked with their tool.
 
As an aside. In order for a device to be properly installed under the code it must be installed per the manufacturers installation instructions. For SharkBites that includes chamfered and marked with their tool.

They also say the depth mark must be checked and be within .005 of the release collar when fully inserted. 5 one thousandths 🤡

Oops sorry, I left my calipers in the truck.🤡 🤣
 
I just used 2 Sharkbite stops and noticed when I marked the copper with the depth tool the SharkBite still had like a 1/16" gap from the end of the Sharekbite to the mark on the pipe.
 
I just used 2 Sharkbite stops and noticed when I marked the copper with the depth tool the SharkBite still had like a 1/16" gap from the end of the Sharekbite to the mark on the pipe.
cut it out and redo it., that 1/16th is critical to the installation. Could cause the toilet to back up


o_O
 
I just used 2 Sharkbite stops and noticed when I marked the copper with the depth tool the SharkBite still had like a 1/16" gap from the end of the Sharekbite to the mark on the pipe.

I used some temporarily while repiping my hous and noticed same this. Part of it for may be that the sharpie tip can not get truly up against the edge of the tool where it meets the pipe.
 
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