WELL-X-TROL Brand Potable Water System (Pressure & Drain Problems)

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MrDee

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2024
Messages
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Location
Maine
Hello, folks!

I've been having some issues that I'm hoping some folks here might be able to help me solve. The house has had low water pressure since I bought the place roughly 5 years ago. The toilets have to wait for several minutes to repressurize before we can flush them again. And most annoyingly, the LG Washing Machine frequently gives an "IE" error, which means insufficient water or water pressure (despite having no obstructions and clean water filters).

I went down to the filter closet in the basement to investigate, and noticed the pressure gage showed 0 psi. After about 20 seconds the pump turned on and I watched the pressure reading on the gage slowly increase from 0 psi to roughly 20 psi and then shut off again. So my first thought was perhaps the pressure switch simply needs to be recalibrated. It seems the pressure switch had a low pressure (turn on) setpoint of 0 psi, and a high pressure (turn off) setpoint of approximately 20 psi. So I opened the breaker to the well pump, removed the cover to the temperature switch, and proceeded to adjust the setpoints. I made small adjustments and then tested it again and each time I saw a small improvement of roughly 5psi on the low and high setpoints after adjusting both screws. This is a standard temperature switch (picture attached).

Each time after making 4-8 turns of the screw and then closing the breaker again, I'd observe the pump turn on and the pressure reading on the gage slowly climb, a little higher each time before shutting off again. This last time I watched the pressure climb slowly up to about 50 PSI, and then suddely the gage spiked from 50 psi to maxing out at 100 psi inside of about 5 seconds. It startled me so I jumped up and opened the breaker again (within about 7 seconds) of noticing the gage spike. Unfortunately, simultaneously when the gage spiked, a drain of some kind started dumping water out onto my basement floor. Refer to the Drain Picture attached. I circled the location where the water dumped out onto the floor.

At first I thought this must be a pressure relief valve, but after searching for a replacement online, I notice this doesn't look like any pressure relief valves I can find online. So I don't even know if this is a pressure relief valve. Does anyone know what it is? It looks to me like a spigot screwed on a female threaded tee sticking out from the main pipe section where the gage and pressure switches are installed (all one assembly piece).

The problem is even after opening the faucets and letting the water system completely depressurize, to the point where the water stops dripping from that drain in my picture attached with this post, when I close the breaker and allow the well pump to repressurize the system, that drain starts dripping and eventually pouring water out onto the floor again. It starts out as a drip at about 5 psi and gradually increases to a open faucet flow rate at pressures around 20 psi. I don't know how to stop the water from draining out that spigot.

I tried depressurizing the system again so I could try to unscrew that spigot thing to take it down to hardware store to ask if they could tell me what it is and buy a replacement, but it seems to be stuck on there. I'm guessing the hardwater calcium deposits have siezed it in place and it'll need to be cut off.

So there's apparently more than one mystery going on here. First off, I can't explain why the pressure suddenly climbed from 50 psi to 100 psi. Second, I don't have any idea what that drain is directly beneath the pressure gage and why it won't stop draining anytime I introduce pressure to the water system by closing the breaker to the well pump. If it is some kind of uncommon pressure relief valve, shouldn't it close automatically and not open again until it reaches its manufactured open setpoint? Can anyone tell me what it is so I can buy a replacement?

Any insights anyone can provide would be immensely appreciated. Thank you for your support!
 

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Yes, that is a relief valve. And your suspicions about mineral buildup is likely the cause of your issues.

The mineral buildup in the pressure switch and the pressure gauge likely caused it not to respond immediately to some of your adjustments. So, you probably adjusted it too high because of the lack of feedback. And then when the relief valve relived, some of the minerals broke loose and are causing the relief valve not to seal.

You might want to clean out your pipe and perhaps purchase a new pressure gauge.

And when Valveman responds to this post, you may want to really listen to him about a CycleStopValve. That would provide you a constant pressurre system>
 
Thanks for the reply MicEd69. Your explanation for the sudden pressure increase makes sense.

Just a followup, the pipe section with the drain, pressure gage, and pressure switch attached appears to all be one piece connected directly to the tank. I'm thinking it all came as part of the tank assembly. The tank is a Well-X-Trol brand, model WX-202.
 
Thanks MicEd! A Cycle Stop Valve would have kept this problem from happening, but won't help get things back to working. I am not sure the pressure switch was what is shutting the pump off. The 1/4" nipple to the switch is brass and they usually do not clog. I think the overload in the motor is tripping, causing the low pressure or out of water for a short time problem.

That is a pressure relief valve that is leaking. Where you have marked "threaded" is either the adjustment screw or the cap on top of the adjustment screw. I would try turning it to the right, increasing the spring pressure underneath to stop it from leaking. If it won't turn right, turn it left and see if it is just a cap. If it is a cap, there will be an adjustment screw underneath to tighten and stop the leak. If you can remove the 75 PSI pressure relief valve they are only 10-15 bucks to replace.

The pressure tank is most likely bad and waterlogged, which is what caused the pressure to spike like that. No air in the tank for a cushion and the pressure will spike every time the pump comes on. Turn off the breaker to the pump, open at least one faucet, and add air to the tank until the tire gauge reads about 35 PSI. If the tank won't hold air it is bad. If water will come out the Schrader when you push the valve core, the tank is bad. If no air will go in, the tank is bad. Most likely the tank is bad, as they always are.

The pump cycling on and off is what caused all these problems. The pump cycles until it breaks the diaphragm in the tank. Then the tank is waterlogged and the pump cycles really fast until it starts tripping the overload. The overload resets itself every so often, so you just have slight inconvenience out of water or low pressure issues while you are destroying the pump from it clicking on/off rapidly. When water stops coming out of the faucets it is time to replace everything. That is the way it is planned. Using a Cycle Stop Valve to stop the cycle of planned obsolescence makes pumps, tanks, and everything in the pump system last much longer. Cycling on and off is what destroys everything, and a Cycle Stop Valve stops the cycling.

If the tank is bad you can replace all of that with a PK1A, including the tank, pressure switch, pressure relief valve, gauge, and even get a Cycle Stop Valve CSV1A to deliver strong constant pressure to the house and keep all these problems from happening again.

In the meantime, get some air in the tank and see if the pump will run without tripping the overload.

https://cyclestopvalves.com/collections/frontpage/products/custom-pk1a-pside-kick-kit
 
Thanks for the reply MicEd69. Your explanation for the sudden pressure increase makes sense.

Just a followup, the pipe section with the drain, pressure gage, and pressure switch attached appears to all be one piece connected directly to the tank. I'm thinking it all came as part of the tank assembly. The tank is a Well-X-Trol brand, model WX-202.
That is a regular tank cross screwed into a 1" elbow underneath the tank. All the gauges, switches, valves, and pipe from the house and pump will come unscrewed from the tank cross.
 
Hello, folks!

I've been having some issues that I'm hoping some folks here might be able to help me solve. The house has had low water pressure since I bought the place roughly 5 years ago. The toilets have to wait for several minutes to repressurize before we can flush them again. And most annoyingly, the LG Washing Machine frequently gives an "IE" error, which means insufficient water or water pressure (despite having no obstructions and clean water filters).

I went down to the filter closet in the basement to investigate, and noticed the pressure gage showed 0 psi. After about 20 seconds the pump turned on and I watched the pressure reading on the gage slowly increase from 0 psi to roughly 20 psi and then shut off again. So my first thought was perhaps the pressure switch simply needs to be recalibrated. It seems the pressure switch had a low pressure (turn on) setpoint of 0 psi, and a high pressure (turn off) setpoint of approximately 20 psi. So I opened the breaker to the well pump, removed the cover to the temperature switch, and proceeded to adjust the setpoints. I made small adjustments and then tested it again and each time I saw a small improvement of roughly 5psi on the low and high setpoints after adjusting both screws. This is a standard temperature switch (picture attached).

Each time after making 4-8 turns of the screw and then closing the breaker again, I'd observe the pump turn on and the pressure reading on the gage slowly climb, a little higher each time before shutting off again. This last time I watched the pressure climb slowly up to about 50 PSI, and then suddely the gage spiked from 50 psi to maxing out at 100 psi inside of about 5 seconds. It startled me so I jumped up and opened the breaker again (within about 7 seconds) of noticing the gage spike. Unfortunately, simultaneously when the gage spiked, a drain of some kind started dumping water out onto my basement floor. Refer to the Drain Picture attached. I circled the location where the water dumped out onto the floor.

At first I thought this must be a pressure relief valve, but after searching for a replacement online, I notice this doesn't look like any pressure relief valves I can find online. So I don't even know if this is a pressure relief valve. Does anyone know what it is? It looks to me like a spigot screwed on a female threaded tee sticking out from the main pipe section where the gage and pressure switches are installed (all one assembly piece).

The problem is even after opening the faucets and letting the water system completely depressurize, to the point where the water stops dripping from that drain in my picture attached with this post, when I close the breaker and allow the well pump to repressurize the system, that drain starts dripping and eventually pouring water out onto the floor again. It starts out as a drip at about 5 psi and gradually increases to a open faucet flow rate at pressures around 20 psi. I don't know how to stop the water from draining out that spigot.

I tried depressurizing the system again so I could try to unscrew that spigot thing to take it down to hardware store to ask if they could tell me what it is and buy a replacement, but it seems to be stuck on there. I'm guessing the hardwater calcium deposits have siezed it in place and it'll need to be cut off.

So there's apparently more than one mystery going on here. First off, I can't explain why the pressure suddenly climbed from 50 psi to 100 psi. Second, I don't have any idea what that drain is directly beneath the pressure gage and why it won't stop draining anytime I introduce pressure to the water system by closing the breaker to the well pump. If it is some kind of uncommon pressure relief valve, shouldn't it close automatically and not open again until it reaches its manufactured open setpoint? Can anyone tell me what it is so I can buy a replacement?

Any insights anyone can provide would be immensely appreciated. Thank you for your support!
How old is your system ? The tank says it’s from 2007. About 16-17 yrs old.
 
How old is your system ? The tank says it’s from 2007. About 16-17 yrs old.
When I bought the house they told me it was built sometime in the early 1990s. I assumed the well and water system was installed at the same time.
 
If the whole tank needs to be replaced, would anyone recommend I buy the same model, an Amtrol WX-202 Well Pressure Tank, or is there something more reliable and longer lasting that you would recommend? I'd like to try to keep this entire fix, including labor, at under $1,000, if at all possible. I think the average labor rate for plumbers around here is $100/hour.
 
More reliable, longer lasting? Let me say this again. The PK1A is the best replacement for what you have and is like 525 bucks.
https://cyclestopvalves.com/collections/frontpage/products/custom-pk1a-pside-kick-kit
Forgive my ignorance, but this area isn't my specialty. Will the 10 gallon version adequately replace my 20 gallon tank and still keep up with demand? Will it work in a large 3,000+ sq/ft house with two bathrooms, multiple outdoor spigots, three sinks, and two showers/baths?

I notice also the CycleStopValves company appears to be out of Texas, where the climate is considerably warmer. I'm up here in Maine where we can see freezing temperatures for 6 months out of the year. Indoors shouldn't reach freezing temperatures but it might get close since we rely on wood heat upstairs as our primary ambient heat source.

Also, would I be correct in assuming you work there? I need a fast solution. How fast can you ship it here if I order one tonight?
 
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After allowing the system to depressurize, I gently shook the tank to check for sloshing sounds. I didn't hear any water sloshing around in there, and it also felt very lightweight, so I think there's a good chance my tank is still good. I'm leaning more toward the hypothesis that the pressure relief valve and pressure switch have failed. I ordered replacements for both.
 
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After allowing the system to depressurize, I gently shook the tank to check for sloshing sounds. I didn't hear any water sloshing around in there, and it also felt very lightweight, so I think there's a good chance my tank is still good. I'm leaning more toward the hypothesis that the pressure relief valve and pressure switch have failed. I ordered replacements for both.
Report back what you find. Thanks for posting ✌️
 
I fixed the well water and restored 40-60 psi pressure in the potable water system. I was correct that the pressure switch failed and the pressure relief valve was stuck open. I went ahead and replaced the gage too since it was only an extra $10. Everything seems to be working now, except one of my toilets and my washing machine.

For some reason the tank fill valve failed in a toilet upstairs (already verified water is available by disconnecting the hoses and opening the manual valve dumping into a bucket). Somehow the overpressurization (or depressurization) caused the fill valve to fail. Easy fix, already ordered a replacement.

The LG washing machine (model 901TWXD4M514) "IE" error that prompted this whole distasterous experience is still there though. It turns out the issue with the washing machine has nothing to do with external water pressure. I found a leak in the drain hose so I suspect that might be the issue. It could be a bad drain pump too. I'm so extremely furious about the washing machine that I just dropped another $1,000 and ordered a whole new machine (different brand).

I'll probably have to hire a technician to come over and get the LG machine working again so I'll have a backup, depending on the cost of that service. The nearest LG tech is about an hour away so they might not even service my area. I tried to troubleshoot myself but when I disconnected the drain hose, about 30 gallons of water poured out onto my living floor. It took several hours, multiple blankets, and about 40 towels to clean up the mess. I'm tempted to load the washing machine with gunpowder and blow it up out back just to make myself feel better (one of the perks to living out in the rural country)...

Anyway, thanks for the support folks!
 
I am glad you are back in water. A pressure tank is no harder to check than the spare tire on your car. Just use a car tire gauge and see if the tank will hold an air charge. Once in a while the tube to the pressure switch or the diaphragm in the switch will clog with sediment. But most pressure switch failures are caused by the pump cycling on and off too much. A failed pressure switch is an indicator of a cycling problem. If the tank is not bad it is just too small, which causes a pressure switch to fail. A new pressure switch, gauge, and pressure relief valve are parts in the PK1A kit. The PK1A kit also includes a pressure tank, which if you don't need now, won't be very long.
 

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