Convert Rear Supply Toilet

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johnnytucats

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We've got an old American Standard equipped bathroom from the late 1920's that's still in great shape.

The one thing that irks me is the toilet. The water supply comes out of the wall into the top rear of the tank...through a hole in the tank. The tank is mounted directly to the wall as it was designed to be.

The flush mechanism is a brass thing that wears out every two or three years and now costs up around $180 or more to replace. Surprisingly, it's an easy part to find for me because I have a supply house less than a mile from here that stocks the old stuff.

I'd really like to do a re-piping job from the inlet down and across the tank (under water) and back up a bit to a fitting that will work with one of the new, standard and inexpensive flush fill mechanisms.

Anyone ever seen this done? I went to Home Depot and couldn't even find a fitting the same size as the bottom of one of these flushers. So, I haven't even checked on what would work with the inlet.
 
To install a modern fill valve would probably be impractical and super difficult the way you are imagining it. If you have the brass ballcock assembly pictured and it's going bad every couple of years, maybe you have another issue in your home that is causing the premature failure and a modern plastic fill valve would go bad too.
Check your house water pressure and also see if you have thermal expansion issues that could be affecting the toilet's mechanical parts.

ballcockbrass.jpg
 
The only one I have ever seen was on a flush ell toilet.

Tanks are screwed to wall and connected to the bowl with a 2" flush ell.

Yes, I have seen those (and remember them :( )...

But I don't think I have seen (or remember) one that fills the tank like that. In fact, I would like to see photos of the complete bath.
 
When I've got a chance I'll do the entire House & Garden spread on the bathroom.

Brass ballcock is correct, I think.

2rpcm4o.jpg


qrmzut.jpg


My plumbing supply man says they wear out quickly because:
  1. They don't make 'em like they used to.
  2. Baltimore City water is horrible.

The cheap plastic one in our other bathroom has lasted a long time.
 
When I've got a chance I'll do the entire House & Garden spread on the bathroom.

Brass ballcock is correct, I think.

My plumbing supply man says they wear out quickly because:
  1. They don't make 'em like they used to.
  2. Baltimore City water is horrible.

The cheap plastic one in our other bathroom has lasted a long time.

He is correct on municipal water.

THANX for those photos...most educational... :D
 
To install a modern fill valve would probably be impractical and super difficult the way you are imagining it.

If you have the brass ballcock assembly pictured and it's going bad every couple of years, maybe you have another issue in your home that is causing the premature failure and a modern plastic fill valve would go bad too.

Check your house water pressure and also see if you have thermal expansion issues that could be affecting the toilet's mechanical parts.

...hmm...

Got me to wondering... :rolleyes: ... (so does the flame of a match :eek: )

What are the leading causes of premature failure of all toilet tank fittings and what are the implications?
Last Update: Sep 03, 2002


Tank bowl cleaners commonly used in tanks to sanitize toilets do considerable harm to many tank fittings, most noticeably to tank balls and flappers. Those tablets and liquids that contain sodium hypochlorite or chlorine bleach are particularly damaging to all rubber goods and many plastic components. Bowl cleaners used in toilets that are flushed infrequently (or left for prolonged periods, such as in vacation homes) can be especially damaging due to the high chemical concentrations reached.

Chlorine and chlorine-related compounds in some public water supplies can also drastically shorten the life expectancy of tank fittings. Public and private water supplies that contain debris (e.g. sand & grit particles), excessive amounts of dissolved minerals, and with pH levels beyond normal/neutral range can also cause premature failure of fill valves. High water pressure can also cause premature failure, especially among fill valves that employ delicate diaphragms as the sealing member.

Source of Info- http://www.cescobrass.com/newsflush.cfm?&sid=25&nid=74

You may want to check sediment levels as evidenced by the rust colored stains on the interior of the bowl.

And municipalities dump huge amounts of chlorine into the water to hide filth. Can you imagine how old some of Baltimore's mains are? :eek:

EDIT-

Here is the explanation of water pressure as Caduceus mentioned also-

What is thermal expansion in residential water supply pipes, why is it a problem, and what is the solution?

Last Update: Sep 03, 2002


Thermal expansion is caused when the supply water entering a building at ambient ground temperature is warmed in a closed residential piping system. With check valves in place at the building entrance (to avoid cross contamination) and all end service valves in a closed (locked) position, the water expands and pressure increases rapidly (again, since water does not compress). The potential result: damage to pipes and fittings.

SOLUTION: Installation of at least one pressure-relieving toilet fill valve, preferably closest to the building entrance, should solve the problem. CESCO’s pressure differential ballcocks throughout the building will give added protection for the piping system.

BTW- How is the tank connected to the bowl?
 
Last edited:
I've never taken it apart so I wouldn't know.

Just wondering as I find old homes fascinating. The tank being wall mounted, is it connected to the bowl with a spud as shown here-

white-seat-lydia_1.jpg


As far as sediment and so forth goes...this thing is 86 years old!

I only mentioned sediment as a possible cause of accelerated ballcock wear.
 

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