New water heater install

Plumbing Forums

Help Support Plumbing Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

oakumboakum

Active Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2011
Messages
40
Reaction score
1
Location
san francisco, CA
The 20 year old Kenmore water heater I installed back in 1997 developed a leak so I thought it was time to buy a new one. I checked Lowe's and Home Depot Online for a 40 gallon water heater and found the selection limited. I found a Rheem 40 gallon tall and a Rheem 38 gallon short at Home Depot. The 40 gallon was about $800 and the 38 gallon was about $560.

I ordered the 38 gallon water heater and the next day I rented a van to pick it up. I had to wait and watch while the Home Depot employees tried to get it down from the shelf. It took them 45 minutes to get it down and on a cart. The guy who brought it to the van lifted it off the cart and put it in the van. The water heater weighs 130 lbs but he was able to lift it all by himself.

Once I got the water heater home, I began buying the parts I needed to install it. I bought the copper fittings, straps, etc. I had to shorten the exhaust pipes from the water heater to the flue for the new water heater. The contractor who installed the new furnace back in 2008 used a 3" x 24" and a 3" x 72 " for the horizontal run. I had to remove the 3" x 24" and replace it with a 3" x 18" one. All these pipes were Selkirk but I ordered an Ameri-Vent from Amazon. I was dismayed when I found the Ameri-Vent wouldn't fit into the Selkirk pipes. I then discovered that these type B double wall vent pipes are manufacturer specific. My mistake cost me a 2 week delay.

I bought the correct Selkirk pipe from a local supply house and installed it. Since the water heater was no longer connected to the exhaust system, I turned off the gas. I heated water to wash the dishes, wash my hands, etc.

The next day, Friday, I removed the pipe connecting an elbow to the draft hood. I leveled the 24" metal stand and placed a 24" diameter pan on it. The 2 movers I hired arrived and they lifted the water heater and placed it on the pan. I tried to center the new draft hood under the elbow and called it a day. It was almost noon and time for lunch so I elected to go to Lowe's Saturday morning and buy a new draft hood pipe and a 60" gas flex line.

I got to Lowe's 6:15 am shortly after they opened and picked up the draft hood pipe and gas flex line. I installed the new draft hood pipe and lowered it onto the draft hood. It fit perfectly. I normally wait until 9 am before I begin working on the house but my next door neighbor was leaving as I got home.

It was time to connect the water heater to the house plumbing. The new water heater is higher than the old one so I had to cut the hot and cold copper pipes. I shut off the main water supply at the ball valve and cut the cold water pipe above the water shut off ball valve. I try to reuse existing copper pipe and fittings if possible so I unsoldered the ball valve, 90 degree elbow, and 3/4" x 3/4" mip adapter.

This decision turned out to be a mistake. It took time and gas to separate the fittings and remove the solder that was still left inside. However, I was able to resolder the adapter to a new shorter length of 3/4" pipe, the 90 degree elbow to a new shorter length of 3/4" pipe, the ball valve to this pipe, and the other end of the ball valve into the existing vertical 3/4" pipe. I connected the copper flex line to the cold inlet of the water heater and to the adapter.

I turned on the main water supply and checked for any leaks at the top of the ball valve. The solder connection was good, no leaks. I slowly turned on the cold water to the water heater and checked for leaks. There were none. I turned off the water to the water heater.

Here is where I screwed up. I cut the hot supply pipes at 2 places and simply resoldered one shortened pipe into the elbow. I just had to solder an existing couple into the existing vertical pipe. I next turned on the water to the water heater and allowed it to fill. At the last connection I soldered, I saw a leak. I turned off the water and waited for the water pressure to diminish. As soon as the leak stopped and there was no water coming out of the hot water outlet, I tried resoldering the leaking connection. Now there was a fine spray when I turned the water back on.

I gave up and ate lunch. At 1 pm, I went back and cut out the entire hot water pipes from the vertical pipe to the water heater outlet. I grabbed a new 18" length of 1/2" copper pipe, a new elbow, a new couple, a new 1/2" x 3/4" mip adapter, and a new copper 3/4" fip x 3/4" fip flex line. All of which I bought weeks earlier. I measured, cut the new pipes, and soldered them. I turned on the water and the cold water supply is watertight as is the hot water supply.

The last thing I had to do was connect the flex gas supply line. I did that and checked for leaks with soap bubbles. Seeing none, I turned on the pilot and saw the orange glow.

I cleaned up the garage and checked the hot water after an hour. The water was too hot so I had to change the setting. The old water heater still provided plenty of hot water but it was leaking.

This project taught me a lesson. I won't unsolder and reuse any old copper fittings and pipes ever again.

Here are some pictures I took.

DSC00965.jpg

DSC00975.jpg

DSC00983.jpg

DSC00980.jpg

DSC00981.jpg

DSC00982.jpg

DSC00977.jpg

DSC00976.jpg
 
Last edited:
Journeyman,

Because of the keystone shaped foundation, the water heater sits about 8" away from the wall. I am having aluminum frames made similar to the ones I had machined for my nitrogen gas cylinder. They should be ready next week. I will use lag screws to attach the frame to the studs and 1/4-20 bolts to attach the straps to the frame.

The one thing I wasn't sure of is the 60" gas flex line. I was told that a 48" gas flex line is the longest permitted by code. I thought of trying a 48" instead of a 60" but I believe it would have been a tight fit.

I did call a plumbing code inspector and he read me the rules about gas flex lines. I heard something to the effect ......"the gas flex line must be rated higher than the btu rating of the appliance." I checked the btu rating of the water heater and it is 36,000 btu. The rating of the 60" gas flex line is 53,200.

I think I'm in compliance.

I also found that Home Depot reduced the cost of the water heater from $560 to $509. Of course it has been over 30 days since I bought the water heater.

DSC00986.jpg
 
Did you pipe up the drain on that pan. The heater install looks better than i have seen some plumbers do, good job.
 
CT-18,

Thank you for reminding me about the water heater drain pan. I forgot all about connecting a drain pipe to it. I will buy a length of pvc pipe, a couple, and an elbow from Lowe's tomorrow.
 
I ordered the aluminum for the frames and picked up the large shipping tube on Wednesday, June 21. I brought the aluminum to the machinist Thursday morning and picked up the completed frames Friday morning.

I had 1" schedule 40 pvc pipe and a 1" schedule 40 elbow lying around so I used both for the drain for the water heater pan.

There wasn't enough space to drill holes behind the right side of the water heater for the aluminum frame so I had to buy a 90 degree right angle attachment for my drill. I purchased one from Sears on June 30 but after drilling one hole, the attachment didn't turn true.

I also noticed that the water heater strap kit I bought from Lowes only had 3 clips instead of 4.

I went back to Lowes and Sears on July 6 and got a replacement water heater strap kit and replacement right angle drill attachment.

I installed the upper aluminum frame and strap Friday. Yesterday I installed the lower aluminum frame and strap. The aluminum frames are secured to two studs spaced 16" apart center to center and fastened with 1/4" x 2-1/2" and 3/8" x 1-1/2" lag screws. The straps are fastened to the frames with grade 8 1/4" -20 x 1" cap screws.

Here are two pictures showing the drain and the water heater with straps. A small section of the alumimun frames can be seen on the left of the water heater.

I am on to my next project.

DSC01012.jpg

DSC01018.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top