Testing well pump??

I've been testing my plumbing network from the pressure tank and switch out to the pump. Water pressure in house won't go above 20 psi and pump will not stop running. I adjusted the pressure switch to conserve the life of the pump. I have a franklin submersible pump between 200-300ft down.

When testing the pressure switch, I get 110-114v on each wire.

Pump is 230v, do I have a voltage issue here?

I tested the pump at the well casing and I get 120v each leg.

I tested the resistance at the pump with pump off and the multimeter doesn't change.

What should the resistance be for the pump from the well casing??

Thank you

Adam

Adjusting the switch probably won't help. Sounds like you either have a hole in the droppipe the pump hangs from or somehow you have nuked an impeller or two.

If the motor is 230 volts and your getting 115 on each leg, try testing across the two of them and you should read around 230 volts.

I am not sure what you mean by "I tested the resistance at the pump with pump off and the multimeter doesn't change." If your checking the pump motor at the top of the casing, the wires have to be cut or disconnected so you are only reading down to the motor. Between the two hot wires you should read somewhere between 2 and 5 ohms. Then read each one to ground. Hopefully it's above 50,000 ohms. These readings aren't super important now, since the pump motor is apparently running.

Do you have a check valve near the tank somewhere?

Should I test the switch while pump is running or not running? I tested the two legs while it's running and I am only getting 114v max any which way I test the wires.

I only have the main valve at the pressure tank but I haven't found any other valves. My thought was maybe a leaky pressure valve but I can't find any other valves.

Edit: I meant to say I tested the wires at the pressure switch while pump was NOT running and couldn't get 230v.

I just tested while the pump is running and got 240v.

The pump is currently maintaining a solid 28 psi, (while our washer is running) which is what the pressure tank also reads for air pressure.

Another thing I forgot to mention. I tested the piping for leaks down stream by shutting main valve off and the well pump off and it will hold water pressure.

Since you say it holds pressure I assume you mean with the pump off and the valve closed going into the house that means that you have a check valve somewhere between the house and the pump.
You will likely have to pull the pump to find out where the problem is.

Yes that's what I was referring to. The system will hold pressure. The only leak I've found is at the toilet leaking into the septic, with the toilet valve off, it will hold pressure.

Is the check valve typically on the drop Pipe in the casing?

I plan on pulling the pump tomorrow.

Thank you for all the help!

The check valve is generally just before the tank but I have seen them in the drop pipe. Do you know what kind of drop pipe you have? Plastic or galvanized

It's hard to see in there but I'm thinking it looks galvanized. The pump was replaced in '98 of that helps any.

Well it looks like I may have been off on some details about the pump. One pump was installed but I think the franklin pump is newer than '98. We just bought this house in 2015. The franklin pump is a 12 gpm with a built in check valve.

Here is a link to it;

http://waterpumpspro.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=109_171_172&products_id=4347

Here is a picture of the label(s, PLURAL);

*** up to 20 gpm. I'm not sure of the actual home.only says 1.5ft per second .

Yeah there's always a check valve in the pump itself. Of course it wouldn't make any difference what the pump is doing if the drop pipe has holes in it.