Adjusting radiator pipes

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bwspot

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Hello,
I do have old steam radiators and after i put new tiles the floor lifted a little bit and by radiator wont fit anymore. I need to fine some extension that would allow me maybe lift the radiator a little and put it on some wood studs.
I have heard that cutting the legs is dangerous and can cause issues.
What kind of extension i need and where can i get it?

thx

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How thick is the floor you added? Your not going to find any extensions less then 2". You can cut the legs on some radiators but I wouldn't advise you to try it. I have done it but you must be sure the legs are solid. Have you tried to raise the pipe.? It looks like your flooring isn't that thick. The other solution would be to recess the legs into the floor.

John
 
i need to lower it .25 of the inch. If recess the legs into floor it will look bad. Can you send me a link with the extension you are talking about?
thx
 
I believe the easiest way to correct this would be to mark a straight 1/4 line on the legs and either use a metal blade on a Sawzall and cut away. If you are hesitant with making the cut, most machine shops or garages could help you out. It is important to know first whether the legs are solid metal or hollow, like John mentioned.
 
Yeah I would probably recess the legs. Ugly or not it's not a fun time messing around with old piping and stuff. But either way whatever you decide best of luck!
 
Is the flooring accessible under the radiator? If so, it is possible that vertical pipe is flat against a floor joist, and by chiseling out 1/4" of the wood, the fitting would connect perfectly.
 
If it's threaded iron pipe, you could un thread the heater 90 and re thread it to your desired hight. You should be able to squeeze a1/4 out of it. If it's copper just cut it and couplink to desired hight. These methods do require you to drain and refill the system but it's only water.
 
It's a one pipe steam system. It's likely 1-1/2" or 1-1/4" black iron pipe that's probably not in the best shape. When he tries to remove the valve there is a very good chance that he will egg the pipe.

John
 
I see. If you are worried about the threads being seized up then grab a hand held torch and heat it up. Shooting some pb blaster will help loosen it as well. If it's 1" iron it won't egg. Besides you don't want to wrench on the pipe itself, instead you just want to back it up with a wrench. You should be applying another pipe wrench to the 90 to spin it off, then re set it.
 
I see. If you are worried about the threads being seized up then grab a hand held torch and heat it up. Shooting some pb blaster will help loosen it as well. If it's 1" iron it won't egg. Besides you don't want to wrench on the pipe itself, instead you just want to back it up with a wrench. You should be applying another pipe wrench to the 90 to spin it off, then re set it.

The union isn't the problem. That has been loosened as he has the radiator out.
His problem is the union half's no longer line up to re-install the radiator because of the higher floor level.

John
 
Yeah definitely dont think it's in his best interest to screw around too much with old piping cause if something goes south he's worse off than before.
 
It's a one pipe steam system. It's likely 1-1/2" or 1-1/4" black iron pipe that's probably not in the best shape. When he tries to remove the valve there is a very good chance that he will egg the pipe.

John

yes , that's my biggest concern,
i did some work on water pipes few months ago , and anytime I touch anything it brakes, so i dont want to touch that pipe at all, too risky and if it brakes i would have to redo tiles
what about some extension that attaches to old thread and goes up a little?
 
The fitting in the link that I posted is the shortest that is made. To lengthen it 1/4" you will have to replace the nipple that the valve is screwed with one that is 1/4" longer. What is stopping you from pulling the line up the 1/4" you need?

John
 
i am not sure how is it done , i will look when i get home
 
i cannot tell, the pipe goes into floor and possibly there is a T there , but as i said this is old building and unscrewing one thing brakes the other and so on.
I tried that before on water pipes and ended up with new copper lines. (and all was done by pros, they broke all the pipes and were supposed to replaced the valves only)

I called the pros and i want them to look at this as i don't see any solution that can safety work for me.
 

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